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whyoldbill Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 12 Jun 2006 Posts: 440 Location: in the boonies, northwest of Columbus, Ohio
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Posted: Fri Oct 01, 2010 3:35 pm Post subject: DIY Grip heaters fix |
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I noticed that my grips were getting "kinda warm", but not really warm enough to do any good. So I started checking things out and found the following:
From the Hi/Lo switch leads to ground, I was measuring 7.9 ohms (either lead)
Measuring across the black/brown wires (at the connector under the tank just before the hole in the handle bar) I saw 1.2 ohms.
HUH??
6.7 ohms of resistance in the wires from the switch to the final connector?
Roughly 80% of the resistance of the circuit is somewhere other than the heaters.
In other words, the heaters were only seeing about 20% of the electricity that was meant for them.
Digging further, I found that there are 3 connectors from the fuse to the handlebars (with the switch also in that path).
So I ran new 18 gauge wire from the fuse to the switch and then another to the wires at the handlebar entry hole.
From the new wire at fuse to ground (with the switch on Hi) I now have 1.3 ohms. With the switch on Lo, it's reading 2.3 ohms.
On Lo, my hands were sweating on the way to work this morning with mesh gloves and it was 40 degrees out...
I can post some pics and a wiring diagram if anyone is interested. _________________ '02 - GL1800
The desired effect is what you get when you improve your interplanetary funksmanship - George Clinton |
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wedge Brick Rider
Joined: 01 Mar 2010 Posts: 29 Location: Wisbech, Cambs
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Posted: Sun Oct 03, 2010 3:39 pm Post subject: |
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please _________________ Bikes:
93 K75S
93 R1100RS |
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Jim Site Admin

Joined: 17 May 2003 Posts: 3841 Location: WHERETHEFUNNEVERENDS
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Posted: Sun Oct 03, 2010 7:59 pm Post subject: |
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The factory wires are what control the temperature. The low temperature setting wires have more resistance, and occasionally overheat and burn.
If you by pass the factory wiring, you'll have high heat no matter where your switch is set. _________________ Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repaired!
1992 K75RTP 46,000
"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed." |
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whyoldbill Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 12 Jun 2006 Posts: 440 Location: in the boonies, northwest of Columbus, Ohio
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Posted: Tue Oct 05, 2010 3:15 pm Post subject: |
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| Jim wrote: | The factory wires are what control the temperature. The low temperature setting wires have more resistance, and occasionally overheat and burn.
If you by pass the factory wiring, you'll have high heat no matter where your switch is set. |
I double checked my wires. You're right Jim.
The orange (low) wire has 2.9 ohms resistance in one section.
The switch also has 1 ohm resistance on the low side.
I'm going to put a 3 ohm resistor on the low side.
If nothing else, I've removed some junky connectors that were over heating and causing my grip heaters to work poorly. _________________ '02 - GL1800
The desired effect is what you get when you improve your interplanetary funksmanship - George Clinton |
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Jim Site Admin

Joined: 17 May 2003 Posts: 3841 Location: WHERETHEFUNNEVERENDS
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Posted: Tue Oct 05, 2010 9:55 pm Post subject: |
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Probably a better way to go. That way you'll have high and low, and won't have to think about having a wire fire. _________________ Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repaired!
1992 K75RTP 46,000
"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed." |
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Tim (Midland Section) Flying Brick Rider

Joined: 08 Apr 2005 Posts: 960 Location: Pinxton, Nottingham, England.
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Posted: Wed Oct 06, 2010 6:41 pm Post subject: |
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| whyoldbill wrote: | | Jim wrote: | The factory wires are what control the temperature. The low temperature setting wires have more resistance, and occasionally overheat and burn.
If you by pass the factory wiring, you'll have high heat no matter where your switch is set. |
I'm going to put a 3 ohm resistor on the low side. |
IMHO that resistor MUST be 30 watt rating or more, suggest metal cased bolted to a heatsink, otherwise you will still have a fire, but somewhere else than the wiring loom. _________________ Regards Tim,
Grey haired riders don't get that way by pure luck
1996 Guzzi Cali3 LAPD
1972 750 Commando
G6HRN
#485 |
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whyoldbill Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 12 Jun 2006 Posts: 440 Location: in the boonies, northwest of Columbus, Ohio
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Posted: Wed Oct 06, 2010 7:37 pm Post subject: |
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| Tim (Midland Section) wrote: | | whyoldbill wrote: | | Jim wrote: | The factory wires are what control the temperature. The low temperature setting wires have more resistance, and occasionally overheat and burn.
If you by pass the factory wiring, you'll have high heat no matter where your switch is set. |
I'm going to put a 3 ohm resistor on the low side. |
IMHO that resistor MUST be 30 watt rating or more, suggest metal cased bolted to a heatsink, otherwise you will still have a fire, but somewhere else than the wiring loom. |
Definitely!
I learned that lesson many years ago tinkering with a blower motor on an old car.
Was also considering a 30a Pulse Width Modulator as that would be a much smaller package. Opinions? _________________ '02 - GL1800
The desired effect is what you get when you improve your interplanetary funksmanship - George Clinton |
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Tim (Midland Section) Flying Brick Rider

Joined: 08 Apr 2005 Posts: 960 Location: Pinxton, Nottingham, England.
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Posted: Thu Oct 07, 2010 6:53 pm Post subject: |
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| whyoldbill wrote: | | Tim (Midland Section) wrote: | | whyoldbill wrote: | | Jim wrote: | The factory wires are what control the temperature. The low temperature setting wires have more resistance, and occasionally overheat and burn.
If you by pass the factory wiring, you'll have high heat no matter where your switch is set. |
I'm going to put a 3 ohm resistor on the low side. |
IMHO that resistor MUST be 30 watt rating or more, suggest metal cased bolted to a heatsink, otherwise you will still have a fire, but somewhere else than the wiring loom. |
Definitely!
I learned that lesson many years ago tinkering with a blower motor on an old car.
Was also considering a 30a Pulse Width Modulator as that would be a much smaller package. Opinions? |
Why not, good job I'm in electronics to understand your reply? Much less wasted heat too.
My Oxford Hot Grips (no BMW heated grips as standard) came with one, but used BMW wiring as I didn't need variable control. My mate uses 2 PWM's to control his & hers heated clothing. _________________ Regards Tim,
Grey haired riders don't get that way by pure luck
1996 Guzzi Cali3 LAPD
1972 750 Commando
G6HRN
#485 |
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max Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 22 Aug 2005 Posts: 309 Location: NZ
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Posted: Fri Oct 08, 2010 4:39 am Post subject: |
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If it helps with the OEM grips, you can replace the grip rubbers themselves too fairly cheaply - you need two sets of aftermarket grips - I think I've got "ProGrips" - because it's the 24mm "throttle side" grips that fit BOTH sides... they're newer semi-silicone rubber and went on with a bit of judicious stretching after carefully peeling the stuffed originals off.
Much better on the throttle hand, a lot less thumb-to-first-finger force needed to keep the throttle open and look very reasonable too. |
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