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DIY Grip heaters fix

 
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whyoldbill
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 12 Jun 2006
Posts: 440
Location: in the boonies, northwest of Columbus, Ohio

PostPosted: Fri Oct 01, 2010 3:35 pm    Post subject: DIY Grip heaters fix Reply with quote

I noticed that my grips were getting "kinda warm", but not really warm enough to do any good. So I started checking things out and found the following:
From the Hi/Lo switch leads to ground, I was measuring 7.9 ohms (either lead)
Measuring across the black/brown wires (at the connector under the tank just before the hole in the handle bar) I saw 1.2 ohms.
HUH??
6.7 ohms of resistance in the wires from the switch to the final connector?
Roughly 80% of the resistance of the circuit is somewhere other than the heaters.
In other words, the heaters were only seeing about 20% of the electricity that was meant for them.
Digging further, I found that there are 3 connectors from the fuse to the handlebars (with the switch also in that path).
So I ran new 18 gauge wire from the fuse to the switch and then another to the wires at the handlebar entry hole.
From the new wire at fuse to ground (with the switch on Hi) I now have 1.3 ohms. With the switch on Lo, it's reading 2.3 ohms.
On Lo, my hands were sweating on the way to work this morning with mesh gloves and it was 40 degrees out...
I can post some pics and a wiring diagram if anyone is interested.
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wedge
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Joined: 01 Mar 2010
Posts: 29
Location: Wisbech, Cambs

PostPosted: Sun Oct 03, 2010 3:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

please
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Jim
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 03, 2010 7:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The factory wires are what control the temperature. The low temperature setting wires have more resistance, and occasionally overheat and burn.

If you by pass the factory wiring, you'll have high heat no matter where your switch is set.
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Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
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1992 K75RTP 46,000

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whyoldbill
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 12 Jun 2006
Posts: 440
Location: in the boonies, northwest of Columbus, Ohio

PostPosted: Tue Oct 05, 2010 3:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jim wrote:
The factory wires are what control the temperature. The low temperature setting wires have more resistance, and occasionally overheat and burn.

If you by pass the factory wiring, you'll have high heat no matter where your switch is set.


I double checked my wires. You're right Jim.
The orange (low) wire has 2.9 ohms resistance in one section.
The switch also has 1 ohm resistance on the low side.
I'm going to put a 3 ohm resistor on the low side.

If nothing else, I've removed some junky connectors that were over heating and causing my grip heaters to work poorly.
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Jim
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 05, 2010 9:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Probably a better way to go. That way you'll have high and low, and won't have to think about having a wire fire.
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Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repaired!
1992 K75RTP 46,000

"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed."
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Tim (Midland Section)
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Joined: 08 Apr 2005
Posts: 960
Location: Pinxton, Nottingham, England.

PostPosted: Wed Oct 06, 2010 6:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

whyoldbill wrote:
Jim wrote:
The factory wires are what control the temperature. The low temperature setting wires have more resistance, and occasionally overheat and burn.

If you by pass the factory wiring, you'll have high heat no matter where your switch is set.


I'm going to put a 3 ohm resistor on the low side.


IMHO that resistor MUST be 30 watt rating or more, suggest metal cased bolted to a heatsink, otherwise you will still have a fire, but somewhere else than the wiring loom.
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whyoldbill
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 12 Jun 2006
Posts: 440
Location: in the boonies, northwest of Columbus, Ohio

PostPosted: Wed Oct 06, 2010 7:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tim (Midland Section) wrote:
whyoldbill wrote:
Jim wrote:
The factory wires are what control the temperature. The low temperature setting wires have more resistance, and occasionally overheat and burn.

If you by pass the factory wiring, you'll have high heat no matter where your switch is set.


I'm going to put a 3 ohm resistor on the low side.


IMHO that resistor MUST be 30 watt rating or more, suggest metal cased bolted to a heatsink, otherwise you will still have a fire, but somewhere else than the wiring loom.

Definitely!
I learned that lesson many years ago tinkering with a blower motor on an old car.
Was also considering a 30a Pulse Width Modulator as that would be a much smaller package. Opinions?
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Tim (Midland Section)
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Joined: 08 Apr 2005
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Location: Pinxton, Nottingham, England.

PostPosted: Thu Oct 07, 2010 6:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

whyoldbill wrote:
Tim (Midland Section) wrote:
whyoldbill wrote:
Jim wrote:
The factory wires are what control the temperature. The low temperature setting wires have more resistance, and occasionally overheat and burn.

If you by pass the factory wiring, you'll have high heat no matter where your switch is set.


I'm going to put a 3 ohm resistor on the low side.


IMHO that resistor MUST be 30 watt rating or more, suggest metal cased bolted to a heatsink, otherwise you will still have a fire, but somewhere else than the wiring loom.

Definitely!
I learned that lesson many years ago tinkering with a blower motor on an old car.
Was also considering a 30a Pulse Width Modulator as that would be a much smaller package. Opinions?


Why not, good job I'm in electronics to understand your reply? Much less wasted heat too.
My Oxford Hot Grips (no BMW heated grips as standard) came with one, but used BMW wiring as I didn't need variable control. My mate uses 2 PWM's to control his & hers heated clothing.
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Grey haired riders don't get that way by pure luck
1996 Guzzi Cali3 LAPD
1972 750 Commando
G6HRN
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max
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 22 Aug 2005
Posts: 309
Location: NZ

PostPosted: Fri Oct 08, 2010 4:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it helps with the OEM grips, you can replace the grip rubbers themselves too fairly cheaply - you need two sets of aftermarket grips - I think I've got "ProGrips" - because it's the 24mm "throttle side" grips that fit BOTH sides... they're newer semi-silicone rubber and went on with a bit of judicious stretching after carefully peeling the stuffed originals off.

Much better on the throttle hand, a lot less thumb-to-first-finger force needed to keep the throttle open and look very reasonable too.
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