K11 Owners Group

malcolmt · Posted: Wed Dec 01, 2010 4:01 pm Post subject: Replacing brake disk screws

The screws holding the front brake disks to the wheels are looking pretty tatty. I'l like to replace with stainless screws. Could also change the brake caliper mounting screws

Are there any hassles with using stainless screws ?
I'm thinking of tensile strength and compatability with the alloy wheels.

Cheers
Malcolm(t)
Joburg, South Africa
_________________
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A Bike on the road is worth two
in the shed
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Turbine · Posted: Thu Dec 02, 2010 7:19 am Post subject: Replacing the bolts for stainless

Being in the industry back in 94 I changed the screws in the first 2 weeks while I pulled the bike apart to know how different it was from the K100RS.
I have had no problems after putting a light coating of Loctite on re-entry.

Remember zinc plated bolts react to aluminium leaving that white powder coating & will strip the thread if no agent is put between them over time.
The possibility of binding & the powder stuff could happen if they have not ever been removed in say five plus years.
_________________
Yamaha TX650A
K100RS x 3
K100RT TO RS
Ducati 705F1-87
K1100RSM-93

malcolmt · Posted: Thu Dec 02, 2010 8:59 am Post subject:

I've just had the wheel bearings changed and when i pulled the disks off found the hex in some of the cap screws were pretty worn. There was plenty of the white crap you mentioned but it didnt stop me getting the screws out.

There isnt such a choice at the fastener distributers in South Africa..I've not found anyone who stocks galvanised cap screws. I have three choices... buy OE screws from BMW..use plain steel cap screws...or use stainless..hence the question.
_________________
******************************
A Bike on the road is worth two
in the shed
******************************

Flying Duck · Posted: Thu Dec 02, 2010 6:11 pm Post subject:

I forget all of the numbers and stuff but I used higher strength stainless when I did mine. Those bolts can be a real bear to get out due to the corrosion and the soft button heads. I always heat them up with a torch to remove them.

Given the corrosion that occurs, I used anti-seize when I put the stainless bolts on.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

beemeerr11 · Flying Brick Rider Joined: 05 Mar 2006 Posts: 168

Flying Duck · Posted: Fri Dec 03, 2010 1:01 am Post subject:

SugarHillCTD · Posted: Fri Dec 03, 2010 6:55 am Post subject:

FD,

Have you used anything from http://www.desmoparts.com/

I only used them for the bolts to attach the lower fairing on my '93 K-RS. I haven't used them for structural attachments. They do have a full kits for the K100RS, in A2-70 & A2-80 stainless(?)

John
_________________
John & Cathy

'92 K100RS4V Pearl White SOLD
'04 K1200GT
IBA Several-SS1k, BBG, 50CC NYC to S.F.

Flying Duck · Posted: Fri Dec 03, 2010 8:48 am Post subject:

To my knowledge that desmo dude doesn't do anything related to brakes - probably due to liability concerns. And if you order larger one-off bits from him there's a good chance they're used.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

malcolmt · Posted: Fri Dec 03, 2010 1:54 pm Post subject:

I did a little research and found a engineering supply ompany close to home. Best of all they are open Saturday morning. I'll pop in tomorow with samples and hope they have.

I've got some copper anti sieze compound, will that be OK or sould I be using somthing more specific on the screws ?

Thanks for the advise
Malcolm(t)
_________________
******************************
A Bike on the road is worth two
in the shed
******************************

Turbine · Posted: Sat Dec 04, 2010 12:29 am Post subject: Screw replacement

With my past experience with change overs with the stainless I have mainly used a low thread loctite instead of the ani-siezes because it will not react with the aluminium.
You will possibility be asked which grade you will want.
A2-70 is the standard 304 & the A2-80 is the 316 marine grade. For our application the 304 grade is better for the torques we require.
The online BMW catalogues are good for getting the sizes required to list what you will require.
I just thought it would be better to ask for a thick washer because they will not cup like some thin ones do.
Any more questions just ask.
_________________
Yamaha TX650A
K100RS x 3
K100RT TO RS
Ducati 705F1-87
K1100RSM-93

Flying Duck · Posted: Sat Dec 04, 2010 10:36 am Post subject:

Personally I'd stay away from thicker washers because the clearance with the forks lowers is pretty narrow. IMHO.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE