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Finally! A method to bleed ABS brake system.

 
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Rafal
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 05 Jan 2009
Posts: 257
Location: Wroclaw, Poland

PostPosted: Wed Dec 15, 2010 7:39 am    Post subject: Finally! A method to bleed ABS brake system. Reply with quote

Hello!

I have found a good method to bleed ABS brake system. In my case ABS II after removing abs modulator form bike - lines partially empty, front callipers untouched.
Tools:
-bottle of DOT4 brake fluid,
-PCV 6mm hose,
-two large syringes- 100 ccm.
Put a piece of PCV hose on both syringes, use heatgun to make hose elastic. Remove piston form one syringe - it will work as container with bleed nipple adapter.

Front brake.
Open brake fluid reservoir and drain the fluid. Fill a syringe in half with fluid, put it on bleed nipple at ABS module (rear in ABSII). Open bleeder at 1/2 turn. Press fresh fluid into system until bubbles stop coming out of brake pump reservoir. Remove the fluid from pump as required. Afterwards one can try to suck the fluid back in to syringe to make sure that system is air free. Close the system, top up the reservoir.

Rear brake - it was empty in my case.
Put the reservoir syringe on the bleeder. Put the syringe with fluid on rear calliper bleeder. Open abs bleeder - 1/2 turn, brake calliper bleeder 1 to 2 turns. Press fluid until fresh one appear in the container on abs bleeder. Close calliper bleeder, remove syringe from abs bleeder.
Put the rear brake reservoir in handy place (I used space between frame tube and coolant hose, it was high with good access), make it empty.
Put the syringe with fluid on abs bleeder, push the fluid into reservoir. Do it as long as fresh, air free fluid is seen in reservoir.
Again suck back fluid into syringe to confirm job done well. Close it up.

Remarks:
Have a lot rags available - brake fluid will spill.
Pumping brake fluid back and forward will clean the installation - lot of small dirt can be seen.
I have tried vacuum bleeding tools - it works fine for changing the fluid, but filling the system was with poor results. Syringes works fine, they are much cheaper , front brake lever is hard again!
General precautions regarding work on brake system must be kept!

Best regards
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Rafal
K1100RS is a real beast (in Marrakesh Red)
K75S is a real beauty - she has gone Sad, but not to far Smile.

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whyoldbill
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 12 Jun 2006
Posts: 440
Location: in the boonies, northwest of Columbus, Ohio

PostPosted: Wed Dec 15, 2010 11:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice write-up Rafal. Thanks!
How's Mama and the baby doing?

What about that side-car?

I had one when my daughter was very young. We (my daughter and I) both loved it, after I learned how to "drive" it. My wife HATED it. Hence I no longer have it Very Happy
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'02 - GL1800


The desired effect is what you get when you improve your interplanetary funksmanship - George Clinton
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10100
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Thu Dec 16, 2010 1:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dealer + credit card = easy bleed. Laughing
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94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
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SugarHillCTD
Site Admin


Joined: 10 Oct 2007
Posts: 4238
Location: Now in Eastern Pennsylvania

PostPosted: Thu Dec 16, 2010 7:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice write up Rafal

+1 on how is the family?
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'92 K100RS4V Pearl White SOLD
'04 K1200GT
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Rafal
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 05 Jan 2009
Posts: 257
Location: Wroclaw, Poland

PostPosted: Thu Dec 16, 2010 2:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

SugarHillCTD wrote:
on how is the family?


My family grows pretty well Wink

Here is some prove:


Best regards,
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Rafal
K1100RS is a real beast (in Marrakesh Red)
K75S is a real beauty - she has gone Sad, but not to far Smile.

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KenInOz



Joined: 29 Jan 2011
Posts: 1
Location: queensland

PostPosted: Mon Jan 31, 2011 3:37 am    Post subject: A Sequel to bleeding K1100 ABS2 Brakes Reply with quote

Thanks for this write-up Rafal. It helped a lot.
I don't know if this will help some one out there but I'll just mention my experience.
I have to confess that the thing that baffled me was the fact that I didn't remove the 'diaphagm' in the K1100 rear brake reservoir when topping-up. It sounds stupid but it took me a while to work this out - especially as I have topped-up the brake fluid - perhaps too long ago to remember. When I pumped the foot brake it was pumping more air into the system that I was evacuating out of the modulator bleeder. Yes, the brake fluid was in the diaphragm and not under it. I first bled the caliper then the modulator. I didn't seem to need the syringe.
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whyoldbill
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 12 Jun 2006
Posts: 440
Location: in the boonies, northwest of Columbus, Ohio

PostPosted: Wed Mar 30, 2011 8:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This write up ought to be a sticky. Mods, please make it so....

Thanks!
Bill
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The desired effect is what you get when you improve your interplanetary funksmanship - George Clinton
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10100
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Fri Apr 01, 2011 8:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Actually the best way to do it is to remove the front calipers and Y from the front end and suspend them from the ceiling. This allows the air in the "hump" to be bled out at the calipers.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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