Bar Risers

[Rolfieh]

I have a 1993 K1100RS and due to problems with my wrists and elbows and being 6' 2" I find it pretty uncomfotable after a few hours of riding. Does anyone know of any one who might make bar risers that might help my situation?

[Flying Duck]

I'm 6-2. If you like to ride agressively, my recommendation (i.e. my OPINION) is that you avoid bar backs or C-bars. The main reason is that for a tall person, it makes it very difficult to get your weight in over the bike on turns. This prevents you from achieving synergy with your bike.

I had a K100RS4V (essentially identical to a K1100RS for this issue.) I tried both bar backs and C bars and the synergy with the bike on agressive turns simply was not there. Each were on the bike for a day and then quickly sold.

What works for me (aside form getting rid of the stock seat as quickly as possible) is making some minor alterations to riding posture.

1) Bend at the hips, not at the waist.

2 For just normal, non-agreesive stuff, stick your chest out a little while riding. Another way of thinking about this is keeping a slight arch to your back - not in the humpback direction, the other way.

3) When you're not riding hard try to keep weight off of your hands. IF you're holding up your weight with your hands then that is what's hurting your wrists and elbows. Keeping your arms loose is what matters.

4) Make sure your butt is in the back fo the seat. Though that's probably not an issue if you're 6-2.

I had issues when I first got the RS which is why I experimented with bar backs and C bars (Those come from a K75C by the way.) After working on my riding positon instead I can now do back-to-back 12-14 hour days in the saddle without issues. It may take you some time to relearn a new riding position but it was worth the effort for me.

For more information, Google "Master Yoda Riding Position"

That's what's worked well for me. Others have bar backs ond love them.

The other issue with bar backs is the igntion swtich fixed in the fork trees and moving the dash panel back. If I had permanently installed bar backs, my plan was to get a two valve K75S or K100RS dash pad and rewire in a 2 valve ignition. That would give the dash a clean look. Then you can just redo the lock cores for the gas tank and your hard bags to match the ignition key for the 2 valve ignition switch - which is very easy to do.

[Flying Duck]

If you really do want bar backs, I know a guy here in Seattle who had several sets made and has extras that he sells for $40 a pair.

[dietric]

If you really do want bar backs, I know a guy here in Seattle who had several sets made and has extras that he sells for $40 a pair.

I'd be interested, do you tink you could hook me up with the guy?

[Flying Duck]

I'll PM you his email. I don't know if he has any left but it never hurts to ask.

[skdonlan]

Hi Rolfieh, here is a link to my post from awhile back about the same issues, Duck gave me the same link he sent you and I got a pair.

I've been pleased with them, they sit me up just a bit, enough to take some pressure of my wrists.

I did end up covering the now empty keyhole with a BMW roundel sticker and it almost looks stock. I guess I don't ride as agro as Duck and have not noticed any handling differences.

I've been pleased.

http://www.k11og.org/forum/viewtopic.ph ... =bar+backs

Good luck

[skdonlan]

Here are a few pics of my solution to the "empty hole effect"

The empty hole after the barbacks,




In the OFF position, with BMW sticker affixed,



In the ON postion


Again the folding key is "key" to this working out. I can still remove the key if I gently pull up on the dash plastic and pull up. But, a regular straight key would be a bit of a problem.

Best of all this can all be returned to completetly to stock if I ever need to sell the bike. (heaven forbid!)


Hope this helps.

[Karlos11]

Skdonlan, could you update this topic with some new photos of your K? I'm about to buy a raiser that lifts and pulls back the handlebar 5 cm (about 2 inches) in each direction. It's this one:


http://www.motoluxe.eu/products/Adaptat ... motos.html

Can anyone give me a feedback on this, or other bar risers?

Regards to all!

[Naked Hoof]

Karlos, I think you're going to have a few minor issues with that particular set of bar backs.

1) the handlebars will be hitting the tank at the far end of their travel
2) you will have a hard time fitting the crash pad
3) the switch wires for your crash pad switches are going to be tight, unless you lengthen them, although there may be enough slack to pull them out from the loom a bit

As with all bar backs, you will probably want to tighten up the steering. Those rubber isolators are extremely annoying stock, but with the bar backs, they are much worse.

[skdonlan]

Skdonlan, could you update this topic with some new photos of your K? I'm about to buy a raiser that lifts and pulls back the handlebar 5 cm (about 2 inches) in each direction. It's this one:

Ask and ye shall receive....









Although I've been happy with these, a few nits. They are unfinished aluminum, so I painted them black to better blend in. My rattle can paint job has not held up too well. They don't have the scored grooves in the clamp part, so you really have to crank these tight to keep the bar from slowly tilting downward. Lastly they have a bit of a "home made" look to them, not near as finished and proper as the ones you show.

All the original wires and cables fit just fine and the bars don't hit the tank at all, although they come real close.

The ones you showed look pretty awesome and prefessionally done, how much are those? (Edit, oh see a 119 euro's)

Your dash pad bolts won't fit into those, so re-mounting the dash pad will be a challenge.

Keep in mind the bar backs mostly move the bars back, not so much "up". If you look at my pictures above, you can see how, due to the downward angle of the triple tree, any amount of "up" is quickly cancelled out by the "down" of the tilt. So mine really didn't gain any height, just moved them back about an inch and a half or so.

[Karlos11]

Thanks, Naked Hoof and skdonlan. Excellent advices and explanations!

Steve, good photos. That's exactly what I needed to compare with that Motoluxe riser.

So, your bar-backs (and Naked Hoofs' too, I assume) have the exact place to fit the crash pad? No trouble whatsoever in fitting? And how much do they pull back the handlebar? Final question: price and availability?

The only thing that would make that riser perfect is if the ignition could also come up to meet the hole in the crash pad, but I guess that's impossible. Still, seems virtually better than Motoluxe's.

Best regards!

[Naked Hoof]

Thanks, Naked Hoof and skdonlan. Excellent advices and explanations!

Steve, good photos. That's exactly what I needed to compare with that Motoluxe riser.

So, your bar-backs (and Naked Hoofs' too, I assume) have the exact place to fit the crash pad? No trouble whatsoever in fitting? And how much do they pull back the handlebar? Final question: price and availability?

The only thing that would make that riser perfect is if the ignition could also come up to meet the hole in the crash pad, but I guess that's impossible. Still, seems virtually better than Motoluxe's.

Best regards!

I used a pair of PC case slot end covers to custom make a pair of brackets to move the crash pad. Cut them to size using my Black&Decker® Mototool® clone. I knew all of those things would eventually find a use.

These are the bar backs I used: http://www.twistedthrottle.com/trade/pr ... /2016/172/

I cut out the recessed area in the crash pad for the ignition. It's my bike. I'll do what works best. I'm not going to go fiddling around every time I put the key in like some folks, just to maintain the stock look...whatever, to each his own. I think that's obsessive. I just wanted the switches available.

[skdonlan]

Here's a link to Scott's website I got them from, you'd have to contact him and see if he still has any.

http://www.stevensontechnology.com/BarBacks/

Yes, the dash pad screw holes are on these and they line up perfectly.

So, for price and the effect, two thumbs up! They're just not quite up to commercial standards, but then again, he not selling them commercially either.

And yes, I'm a bit obsessive about my bike, I always try to think of some FO (future owner) saying, "WTF was the PO thinking, doing, etc.."

As a quote I once heard said, "We are not the ultimate owners of these machines, merely care takers for the future..."

Good luck!

[Flying Duck]

The only thing that would make that riser perfect is if the ignition could also come up to meet the hole in the crash pad, but I guess that's impossible.

I toyed with C bars on my K100RS4V. (same bars/cover as K1100RS) I didn't like the C bars (not good for riding twisties hard - for me anyhow) so I went back to the stock bars but if I'd kept the C bars I was planning on using a standard square K75/K100 dash pad and then grafting the wiring of a K75/K100 ignition switch so the key would be in the dash.

[Naked Hoof]

And yes, I'm a bit obsessive about my bike, I always try to think of some FO (future owner) saying, "WTF was the PO thinking, doing, etc.."

The future owner of this bike will be someone like the Toe Cutter or the Lord Humongous.

[Karlos11]

Thanks for all the feedbacks!

Those barbacks sure seem to be the best option, Steve. By the way, adding to what you wrote, Scott Stevensons' page mentions that they not only "provide about 1.25" back", but also .9" rise. Better than nothing.

Now - just me thinking - could Scott come up with "second generation" barbacks (:lol:) that allow a gain of 2", both up and back? Just an idea.

Well, yes, I too prefer the stock look (closest possible). No matter if this K is going to have a new owner or not, after me. And I'm Toe Cutter enough!

Finally, commercially speaking... "You never actually own a Patek Philippe. You merely look after it for the next generation."

[Karlos11]

I toyed with C bars on my K100RS4V. (same bars/cover as K1100RS) I didn't like the C bars (not good for riding twisties hard - for me anyhow) so I went back to the stock bars but if I'd kept the C bars I was planning on using a standard square K75/K100 dash pad and then grafting the wiring of a K75/K100 ignition switch so the key would be in the dash.

That brings me to something else: has anyone ever tried to fit K1100LT handlebar and crash pad into a K1100RS?

I believe this would solve the "ignition problem" nicely. I once found photos of a german red K11RS with this modification. Very interesting, I must say!
I'll try to recover those images and post them here.

Best regards!

[Flying Duck]

No reason you couldn't put LT bars on but you'll need LT cables and brake line.

[Karlos11]

Here it is: an RS with an LT handlebar, from Germany.








http://picasaweb.google.com/wastelralf/MotorrDer#

First it looks a bit strange (new!), but I think I could get used to this. Not exactly stock look, but a modification entirely done with BMW parts.

Allow me to ask: how would this change RS' riding experience?

[skdonlan]

That's really interesting. That's an amazng lean angle in that last picture.

I'd love to ride that bike and see what it's like.

[Flying Duck]

Look where you want to go.