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Off the grid Chaotic Good

Joined: 05 Jul 2006 Posts: 3414 Location: At the local taco truck waiting for Jo.
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Posted: Sat Jun 16, 2007 9:32 am Post subject: Bobbins and such. |
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1. Can anyone point me to a website that sells BMW or compatible (quality-wise) replacement bobbins for my 93 LT?
2. My mechanic said that I have a few mm of play forwards and backwards as well as laterally, plus I am hearing some strange noises from them. My que to replace?
3. Whats the best way to replace them? Front wheel off? Rotors off? Replace one at a time or dissasemble all and start fresh?
4. Should I rotate/flip the rotors?
Different topic:
Other than a pipe, what can I do to make my K faster?
Thanks in advance
-Dave _________________ Bane of your existence since July 2006
2007 Triumph Tiger ABS. "Sabertooth"
2009 Husqvarna TE610. "The dirty Italian mistress"
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Tim (Midland Section) Flying Brick Rider

Joined: 08 Apr 2005 Posts: 960 Location: Pinxton, Nottingham, England.
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Posted: Sat Jun 16, 2007 9:55 am Post subject: |
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Try MotoBins in the UK £17 ($34) ish + postage per rotor. Bits are Brembo upgrade. Instructions to fit, the way I did it follow:-
I have a 56,000 mile bike, which developed a rattle from the front whilst manoeuvring.
It was found to emanate from the front discs, which although described as “floating”, I was told that they shouldn’t float radially. After talking with my favourite supplier, we decided that the likely cause was worn disc bobbins, a known failing. There are improved ones available from the East of England.
One front disc was repaired in just over an hour, using the following method, which
assumes that the rider has some mechanical aptitude (usual disclaimers apply): -
1) Jack under the sump, to allow the wheel to rotate.
2) Assemble: - copper grease, lead lamp, short luggage bungee, small hammer,
8" terminal screwdriver, 8" x 1/4" screwdriver, rag, solvent, beer, beer crate & cushion.
3) Using bungee through the wheel, hang the lead lamp to illuminate the inside of the disc.
4) Place cushion on crate, put crate in front of wheel & sit on cushion.
5) Using terminal driver as a drift, with hammer, tap the first circlip off.
6) Remove all 3 bits & keep separate from new ones.
7) Lightly grease bobbin, inside of disc where the washer will go & the ends
of the circlip.
Fit the bobbin & the washer (check instructions for correct orientation), ensuring that the washer & bobbin are concentric, then push the terminal driver into the circlip slot to hold the washer in position.
9) If you have aligned correctly in step 8, then the circlip will slide into full location, just by pushing the back of the circlip with the 1/4" screwdriver or at most lightly tapping the clip firmly home. If the clip doesn't go into the slot, try compressing the washer with the screwdriver whilst pushing circlip with a finger.
10) Ensure clip has fully seated, repeat 11 more times. Wiping the disc with a solvent soaked rag as you rotate the wheel, to remove any grease, which may have gone astray before it gets onto the pads.
11) Drink beer.
HTH _________________ Regards Tim,
Grey haired riders don't get that way by pure luck
1996 Guzzi Cali3 LAPD
1972 750 Commando
G6HRN
#485 |
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John Clauss Flying Brick Rider

Joined: 04 Apr 2003 Posts: 732 Location: Robesonia, PA
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Posted: Sat Jun 16, 2007 12:50 pm Post subject: |
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I will add a couple of hints to the excellent reply above.
I found it easier to not jack the bike, but instead let the weight on the front end hold the wheel still while I worked. Rotating the wheel was just a matter of lifting on the fairing a bit.
Take your time, if it doesn't fit do not force it.
Order the parts from a BMW dealer. They are not very expensive, should be around $75 for the lot.
There is a pictoral of how to do this in this months BMWMOA magazine, maybe its on the website.
Have fun. _________________ 1997 K1100LT
1975 R75/6
It will bring you so close to nausea, it will make you sick! - Big Al |
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Phil Marvin Rider in the Sky
Joined: 03 Apr 2003 Posts: 1389 Location: El Paso, Texas, USA
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Posted: Sat Jun 16, 2007 12:58 pm Post subject: |
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Hi, Dave,
Tim's method is fine as is his parts source (MotoBins), but there are a few caveats.
1. The price is right (GBP 17 is a bit less than $34). Double this (2 rotors) and add shipping and your credit card fee for foreign exchange (usually 3%) and you're probably looking at around $80 - a bargain. HOWEVER, if I remember correctly, the MotoBins parts are steel and BMW's parts are alumin(i)um. The BMW bobbins are sacrificed so the disc carrier wears less.
2. The disc carriers DO wear, especially the holes in which the "spring" bobbins ride. There are 3 of these per rotor. When you change the bobbins, move all the "spring" bobbins one hole so the springs have a relatively fresh hole to wear against! The old locations of the "spring" bobbins are filled with fresh plain bobbins. If you don't do this, the new bobbins will wear out prematurely. Don't ask me how I know!!
3. A real cheapskate MIGHT(?) get by only replacing the spring bobbins.
4. Another USA BMW dealer has a fiche on the web (Hammersly?) The last time I checked bobbin prices, they were by far the cheapest (not counting MotoBins). They may still be; they may not be, but with BMW parts prices as they are, it pays to check.
Ride Safe, _________________ Ride Safe,
Phil Marvin in El Paso, TX
'94 K75A/3
'95 K75RTP |
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dave n Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 13 Dec 2003 Posts: 316 Location: Gastonia NC
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Posted: Sat Jun 16, 2007 4:01 pm Post subject: |
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Lightly grease bobbin, inside of disc where the washer will go & the ends
Can't agree with this part - any grease here will mix with the road grit and make a grinding paste (think valve lapping compound) and hasten wear.
And possibly contaminate your hard working brake pads. _________________ Dave Norris KOG 248
1999 Cagiva Gran Canyon
1993 K1100LT w/Hannigan sidecar
2008 Suzuki DR650 |
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bmwmick Flying Brick Rider

Joined: 07 Jun 2003 Posts: 907 Location: Tucson, AZ
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Posted: Sun Jun 17, 2007 1:06 pm Post subject: Re: Bobbins and such. |
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| Off the grid wrote: | 1. Can anyone point me to a website that sells BMW or compatible (quality-wise) replacement bobbins for my 93 LT?
2. My mechanic said that I have a few mm of play forwards and backwards as well as laterally, plus I am hearing some strange noises from them. My que to replace?
3. Whats the best way to replace them? Front wheel off? Rotors off? Replace one at a time or dissasemble all and start fresh?
4. Should I rotate/flip the rotors?
Different topic:
Other than a pipe, what can I do to make my K faster?
Thanks in advance
-Dave |
Did you do any searches for "bobbins" here? Lots of good tips have been written.Such as this........
http://k11og.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=618&highlight=bobbins _________________ Mick McKinnon
KOG#175
'93 K1100LT, '96 R1100RT, '84 R100RS, 2010 Kawasaki C-14
Tucson, AZ |
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old guy old bike Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 18 Jul 2007 Posts: 373 Location: Lisbon, OH
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Posted: Fri Sep 14, 2007 11:48 am Post subject: |
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Ok, this is coming up real quick on my to do list. BMW really likes their aluminum bobbins after the last round of price increases. The steel bobbins can still be purchased from Motobins in the $90 range for both discs. This more than cuts the cost of the job in half. The question I have is how bad do the steel buttons eat up the hub and discs? I don't want to save $100 on bobbins and then have to spend 5 times that down the road.
Thanks,
Jeff _________________ 1993 K1100LT
2003 K1200GT Gone but not forgotten
2014 Victory Crossraods |
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bmwmick Flying Brick Rider

Joined: 07 Jun 2003 Posts: 907 Location: Tucson, AZ
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Posted: Fri Sep 14, 2007 12:40 pm Post subject: |
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| old guy old bike wrote: | Ok, this is coming up real quick on my to do list. BMW really likes their aluminum bobbins after the last round of price increases. The steel bobbins can still be purchased from Motobins in the $90 range for both discs. This more than cuts the cost of the job in half. The question I have is how bad do the steel buttons eat up the hub and discs? I don't want to save $100 on bobbins and then have to spend 5 times that down the road.
Thanks,
Jeff |
Jeff,
The plain rollers are $2.40 each and the spring rollers are $5.60 each from ChicagoBMW. P/N 34112310995 (spring rollers) and P/N 34112310086 (plain rollers). 9 plain and 3 spring per rotor.
That's about $77 plus shipping.
The aluminum carrier will be worn by the steel rollers in my opinion.
Mick _________________ Mick McKinnon
KOG#175
'93 K1100LT, '96 R1100RT, '84 R100RS, 2010 Kawasaki C-14
Tucson, AZ |
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old guy old bike Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 18 Jul 2007 Posts: 373 Location: Lisbon, OH
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Posted: Fri Sep 14, 2007 1:04 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks Mick. I was basing my figures on what my local BMW dealer gave me. I came out over $200 for both rotors. It did include new clips and washers though. I really don't see the clips and washers as a high wear item. They may be just telling me to replace everything because they want to sell me everything. Would they do that! _________________ 1993 K1100LT
2003 K1200GT Gone but not forgotten
2014 Victory Crossraods |
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Flying Duck PsyKotic Waterfowl

Joined: 27 Jan 2005 Posts: 10102 Location: Bumf***, WA
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Posted: Fri Sep 14, 2007 1:14 pm Post subject: |
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| old guy old bike wrote: | | ...because they want to sell me everything. Would they do that! |
Nah, never.  _________________ 93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE |
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bmwmick Flying Brick Rider

Joined: 07 Jun 2003 Posts: 907 Location: Tucson, AZ
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Posted: Fri Sep 14, 2007 1:44 pm Post subject: |
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| old guy old bike wrote: | | Thanks Mick. I was basing my figures on what my local BMW dealer gave me. I came out over $200 for both rotors. It did include new clips and washers though. I really don't see the clips and washers as a high wear item. They may be just telling me to replace everything because they want to sell me everything. Would they do that! |
Hmmmmm,
Would a dealer try to sell you more than you need to do the job yourself?
Yep, in a heartbeat.  _________________ Mick McKinnon
KOG#175
'93 K1100LT, '96 R1100RT, '84 R100RS, 2010 Kawasaki C-14
Tucson, AZ |
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nickmakwell Brick Rider
Joined: 12 Aug 2006 Posts: 30
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Posted: Sat Sep 15, 2007 10:10 pm Post subject: |
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Im doing this job right now - bought the kit from my local BMW guy - $107 per disc OUCH!!!
anyway, having trouble putting the new spring bobbin pins in - should I use a little grease and/or try compressing the spring a little with some pointy pliers to get it to fit?
the new ones wont go all the way in past the carrier.... |
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nickmakwell Brick Rider
Joined: 12 Aug 2006 Posts: 30
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Posted: Sat Sep 15, 2007 10:11 pm Post subject: |
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oh the rest take no time at all - easy peasy.
ill go do the other disc first and then come back and try all 6 spring bobbins. |
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bmwmick Flying Brick Rider

Joined: 07 Jun 2003 Posts: 907 Location: Tucson, AZ
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Posted: Sat Sep 15, 2007 11:28 pm Post subject: |
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| nickmakwell wrote: | oh the rest take no time at all - easy peasy.
ill go do the other disc first and then come back and try all 6 spring bobbins. |
Did you move them one hole forward or backward as suggested? If not,do it now.
To get the anti rattle bobbins in, use a pair of small screwdrivers and with the gap in the spring facing you, press in slightly from the outer edges of the springs while applying a little pressure to the face of the bobbin. Sounds complicated but is easy once you do it. _________________ Mick McKinnon
KOG#175
'93 K1100LT, '96 R1100RT, '84 R100RS, 2010 Kawasaki C-14
Tucson, AZ |
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wera32 Flying Brick Rider

Joined: 05 Apr 2003 Posts: 427 Location: Charlotte, North Carolina USA
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Posted: Sun Sep 16, 2007 8:32 am Post subject: |
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Sorry I'm too late to help Dave but when I needed to do this job I bought two used rotor assemblies for $150. They were almost like new. I think they came from Cycles Recycled but I'd have to check to be sure. My originals were almost to the wear limit anyway. It's good to have options. _________________ Paul - '93 K11/12RS (sold), 2002 R1100S BCP and '03 RC51 KOG 29 |
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Frank Flying Brick Rider

Joined: 30 Jan 2006 Posts: 170 Location: Gold Coast Australia
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Posted: Sun Sep 16, 2007 2:51 pm Post subject: |
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G'day Guys
I just replaced my bobbins in the last month. Cost me $A190 from Munich Motorcycles in Perth.
Job took about 90 minutes or so, finding jack, removing wheel (getting old can't bend down anymore).
My bobbins looked square when I pulled them out. I had no trouble replacing the spring ones.
Best money that I have spent on the bike, now I have confidence in the ABS system and no rattles from the front when braking. _________________ Ride safe
Frank
Gold Coast Australia
BMW 1997 K1100LT - White
Ulysses Member 33144
StruggleTown Tourers |
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Gary Bennett Mad Brick Rider

Joined: 06 Jun 2005 Posts: 127 Location: Brisbane, Australia
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Posted: Mon Sep 17, 2007 6:52 am Post subject: |
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Frank,
The bobbins from Munich M/C, are they aluminium or steel? OEM or Aftermarket? _________________ Gary
'94 K1100RS |
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Frank Flying Brick Rider

Joined: 30 Jan 2006 Posts: 170 Location: Gold Coast Australia
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Posted: Tue Sep 18, 2007 3:10 am Post subject: |
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G'day Garry
Sorry but I can't remember if they where alum or steel, hang on second I will go and check.
OK, they are alum, put magnet on them and the slide around to the steel disc.
The bobbins arrived in a clear plastic bag with no markings, so not sure if they are BMW or aftermarket.
How is the exhaust on your bike? Mine broke at No4 header and I had it redone at Motorcycles Exhaust Specialists in Slacks creek. They did it aka K100 slip-on style. (Just asking as I am following a thread on the Internet BMW Riders Tech mailing list) _________________ Ride safe
Frank
Gold Coast Australia
BMW 1997 K1100LT - White
Ulysses Member 33144
StruggleTown Tourers |
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Gary Bennett Mad Brick Rider

Joined: 06 Jun 2005 Posts: 127 Location: Brisbane, Australia
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Posted: Tue Sep 18, 2007 6:42 am Post subject: |
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Frank,
The bobbins are probably BMW parts that Munich M/C source directly from the original manufacturer.
My exhuast has never been touched and the bike has done 155,000km. If it ever did crack I was going to get the same guys to do what you got done. As a point of interest, did you know that the guy that owns the business (Noel) is a Kiwi and designed and built the exhuast for the NZ made "Britton" race bike back in the 80's I think it was. _________________ Gary
'94 K1100RS |
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Frank Flying Brick Rider

Joined: 30 Jan 2006 Posts: 170 Location: Gold Coast Australia
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Posted: Wed Sep 19, 2007 2:23 am Post subject: |
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Garry
No troubles at all with the exhaust. Does not leak or sound too bad. makes for easy fitment.
Noel did a good job and i didn't know about the Brittion connection. Thanks _________________ Ride safe
Frank
Gold Coast Australia
BMW 1997 K1100LT - White
Ulysses Member 33144
StruggleTown Tourers |
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