K11 Owners Group

[chopper_harris]

Hello Everyone

Chopper Harris here, new boy based in UK. I've worked airheads for about 5 years, and am active on the Motobins forum, but this is my first K bike

I'm part way through the restoration of a much neglected K11 LT, and need some advice please.

Front ABS Sensor (ABS II)

How on earth can I shift the sensor from the mount in the fork leg ? Both Torx heads sheared off, and I am fearful of using heat or force incase I bust it open. Are they robust, or easily damaged ?
Has been soaked with WD40 for 5 days - no movement. Any hints/tips welcome.


Seat Hinges

They seem to be just as fragile, and poorly designed as the airhead hinges, and the rubber has long since split away from the brackets.
I think that they are also bent, due to excessive motion after the rubber/metal bond failed.

Can anyone help with a couple of nice underseat shots of an LT, ideally from front and side, for me to use as a reference please.


TIA, and I hope to be able to assist when appropriate with some knowledge acquired from 25 years in the trade.

Rgds

Chopper Harris
_________________
C1 200 (2001)
R100 RS (1990)
NSU Quickly N (1964)
Honda 400/4 F1 (1977)
MotoGuzzi 1000C (1978)
Suzuki TL 1000 R (1999)
Kawasaki KLV1000 (2005)
K12R Sport (2007) - Wifeys

[petevmax]

hi chopper,unless the sensor is not working i would leave it alone
mine sheared the two bolts and is stuck in there as well,it is better to undo the abs sensor at the plug under the tank as i will have to do to
put fork giaters on.i'll try to take some photo's of the said items at w/end
then send them via your email


cheers pete
_________________
93 k1100lt

[Flying Duck]

Front ABS sensor:

I can't imagine that it wouldn't fall off if both heads are sheared off. Are they completely sheared off?

fF they're actually sheared off then a PO (prior owner) might have used some sort of adhesive to just glue them in there - who knows what some people do.

What I'd try: Use the right size drill bit to make sure that the neads are completely gone - but don't drill in far enough to hit the threads on the fork lower - for obvious reason. Actually, if you just get the heads of the bolts gone then you should be able pull the ABS sensor off. Then once it'soff, you can remove what's left of the bolts with Vice-Grips.

If that doesn't work, then once you are sure the heads are completely gone, try using a small chisel or something form the sides - alternating from top bolt to bottom bolt to see if that will help slowly back it out. The flange on the ABS sensor is pretty sturdy so I doubt you'll deform it unless your'e using he-man force on it.

The snesors themselves are pretty sturdy but not so much that I'd grab the body of the sensor with pliers - the flange though does seem to be pretty tough.

Seat hinges:

I'd just buy some new ones - they're one of the cheaper parts in terms of BMW prices.

Note that if you get an after market seat or seat from an earlier K, you can (need to actually) use some seat hinges from an earlier K (86 or later K100, K75, or 93 or earlier K1100). The earlier seat hinges don't have the rubber pad on them.

The only K seats that used the hinges with the 1/3" rubber pad thingies are the 94 and later K1100s. (My guess is that BMW added rubber to the hinges to minimize the engine buzz in the seat.)

Hope that helps.

And welcome to the darKside.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

[Off the grid]

Can't really help with what you need, but welcome to the site!
_________________
Bane of your existence since July 2006
2007 Triumph Tiger ABS. "Sabertooth"
2009 Husqvarna TE610. "The dirty Italian mistress"

[Technician]

Welcome to the forum, it's nice to get some more U.K. blood here. Whereabouts are you located?
As for the seat hinges it's easiest to just replace them, I personaly prefer Motorworks for parts and as it happens have recently replaced my hinges which cost me about £23.00 for the pair.
The ABS sensor is a different matter. If you dismantle the forks it will make your life easier, I had exactly the same problem in August and ended up having to smash the sensor up to get it out of the fork leg. Being in the trade you will understand about supporting the mounting while you knock the sensor out. I ended up drilling out both bolts and using a couple of Timeserts to put new threads in. If your nearby I may be able to assist.
Good luck
_________________
Fat Ba***d with a K1100LTse
Squire D18 trailer
Garmin Zumo 660
"Run it round the block to see if the wheels fall off!!!!"

[Tim (Midland Section)]

Re ABS sensor. When I tried to remove mine, the bolts came out no problem.
As for the sensor:- British road salt attacked the aluminium of the fork, which swelled & crushed the sensor casing, holding it stubbornly fixed. It was so solidly stuck that I broke the casing! £58 + post & VAT in 2004. If it works OK, leave well alone & unplug it under the tank, I would for that amount of gold.
Are you anywhere near Nottingham?
_________________
Regards Tim,

Grey haired riders don't get that way by pure luck
1996 Guzzi Cali3 LAPD
1972 750 Commando
G6HRN
#485

[chopper_harris]

Thanks to everyone who posted a response, and to Pete for detailed photos which confirmed my thoughts.

The hinges were badly out of true, the previous owner was 24 stone, and had physically bent them.
Two minutes with the fly-press and they are now on spec again.

Rubber to metal bonds are easily repaired with 'Windscreen Bonder', aka Tiger Bond or Sikoflex.

In addition to the mating surfaces, I also used it to fill some of the airgaps, where the mounting bolts fit. Lighly lube an old BIC biro, and push through the bush to allow the bolt to pass through when refitting.

Apply TIger Bond generously, and smooth with wet finger. Leave overnight and you have a seat hinge which is stronger and more resilient than the original.

Yes, I have a trade account at MotoWorks, much prefer them to the other, snotty independent suppliers.

Good Northern lads, like myself (I'm near Wigan )
_________________
C1 200 (2001)
R100 RS (1990)
NSU Quickly N (1964)
Honda 400/4 F1 (1977)
MotoGuzzi 1000C (1978)
Suzuki TL 1000 R (1999)
Kawasaki KLV1000 (2005)
K12R Sport (2007) - Wifeys

[BMGraeme]

Any more Brits on this forum and we will have to have a bash somewhere!

Nothing else to add - I like others simply undo the connector under the tank and leave it in the fork leg. I would say though that if you switch the ignition on and the sensor is not back in place it will show a fault to the motronic. This will require the brain to be reset which can be a pain to do.
_________________
1980 CB900FA
1994 K1100RS
2008 R1200GSA

[chopper_harris]

Guys

To close this thread off - Ultimately I had to burn the old abs sensor out of the mounting

The top part broke away, then I had to unravel about 10m of fine copper wire from the pulse coil. The soft iron core of the pulse coil twisted out with grips, but the plastic body would not shift. The mating face was caked with white aluminium oxide, and I had to burn the 'thimble' remains out with a gas torch !

An old, but useful tip for you - when you are planning to heat up an aluminium part, rub a block of household soap on the part in question.
When the soap turns black, the part is as hot as you can safely go.

And kudos to Fred at CyclesRecycled. He supplied a good 'pre-loved' ABS II front sensor for $40 (£19.50) inc shipping (That is how BMW dealers in the UK are describing their 2nd hand stock these days )

He can be found at www.cyclesrecycled.com - 828 433 1067
_________________
C1 200 (2001)
R100 RS (1990)
NSU Quickly N (1964)
Honda 400/4 F1 (1977)
MotoGuzzi 1000C (1978)
Suzuki TL 1000 R (1999)
Kawasaki KLV1000 (2005)
K12R Sport (2007) - Wifeys