K11 Owners Group

[longrider]

FD
I have put about 40 miles on it now that I have the Fuel pump working like it should! she runs great but the idle is a little low I think I'll have to sink the throttlebodys and check the TPS voltage?
everything seems to work tach and speed-O left and right signals high beam light oil light and temp light Bat light. all the dash lights seem to work. only issue is the yellow light? only other issue is the clock the old clock might be usable? I'm going to check that out soon. looking at the dash they both look the same the replacment and the OEM one? is there a difference that I'm not seeing? such as the ABSII deal, Do I have ABSII? on this 1994 K11LT. would clearing the old faults help? funny when I first bought this Bike I thought it was a 93 till I got the title. the bike was in a lot of parts kind of a basket case I would say.

[bmwmick]

Virg,
What are the last 7 digits of your VIN? I probably have the wiring info you need. The P/N of that instrument cluster would help too.
The cluster P/N changed 07/1993 but I'm not sure what they did. It may have been related to the ABS-I/ABS-II changes in the warning lamps.
62112305626 is the later P/N 62112305258 is the earlier one.

Mick
_________________
Mick McKinnon
KOG#175
'93 K1100LT, '96 R1100RT, '84 R100RS, 2010 Kawasaki C-14
Tucson, AZ

[bmwmick]

[longrider]

Thanks Mick
That sounds like what I'll be doing and wile I have to Unit off I will replace the clock, I just hope that's not a real mess to work with? is there anything I should look out for wile I'm taking it apart?
Virg

[Flying Duck]

Get the part number off of the back - then we can figure out what oyu've got. Since it has the white lines along the bottom, I"m guessing it comes from an ABS I 4 valve - like a K100RS4V pre-94 K1100.

Clock swapping:

Place the unit face down on a towel or something soft that won't scratch then lens or housing.

Remove the nine screws that hold the back on. Don't mess with the ones in the middle - just the perimeter ones.

Pull out the trip odometer knob. It may come apart and drop little pieces in the cluster - don't worry - you can shake them out and put it back otgether. Even if you do break it, it's only a $5 part.

Then remove the four screws at the bottom and two along the sides that hold the guts in the case.

Shake the guts out of the case now. Be VERY careful - the spedo and tach needles will bend if you look at them crosswise.

There's a square black sleeve around the clock. It takes alittle work to remove it but not too bad.

You will then see four little white prongs that hold the clock in. Push those back slightly one by one to free the clock. Then you can just pull the clock out and swap in the new one.

Assembly is the reverse.

One thing you might want to do before pulling the cluster apart is pull the old one apart first and remove it's clock. Not only will this give you practce but you can then test that clock. The two pins on the back of it have very small + and - markings. You can hook those up to 12V to test the old clock and see if it's working or not.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

[Scott_Anderson]

Drake, I've got those white lines at the bottom of my speedo as well, and it's a '97 4v w/absII.



Ride Safe

Scott

[longrider]

FD I emailed the place I bought the speed-O unit from he say to reset my ABS unit to clear the yellow blinking light? could that be it? I do notice if I push the ABS switch the light stays on solid for a a wile? he clames the Unit should work on my K1100lt with no mods to it ? Now I'm curious about the clearing of the ABS ? he said you have to ground the moniter plug and hold the ABS switch down and turn on the Key? but didn't say what pin to ground on the monitor plug? I see there are 3? and not sure how long to hold the ABS switch down? he was kind of confusing with what he told me.
Virg

[Flying Duck]

Pull the blue cap off of the diagnostic plug. Shove a wire into the middle contact. Ground the other end of that wire on the bike somewhere. Hold down the ABS switch, turn the bike on (you don't need to start it.) and keep holding the ABS switch. (some people say 2 seconds, others 20 seconds, I just hold it for a while) Then let go of the switch and turn the bike off.

My ABS II bike has only faulted once - I can't rememebr if the yellow light went on or not. I know it did't on ABS I bikes I 've had.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

[Flying Duck]

[longrider]

Scott
My OEM 1994- K11LT Speed-O looks the same as the One I bought to replace the Busted OEM One.

[longrider]

Flying Duck
I did the reset on the ABS but nothing happend ?? I was able to check my cooling fan it worked . where do I find the TPS plug to test the voltage? is it in the relay box? I see two plugs in the relay box one Black male with 3 pins and a white female with 4 pin sockets?
Virg

[bmwmick]

You can use the TPS test to check it.
The plug is at the TPS end of the cable.
Why do you want to test it? Do you have some type of problem?
_________________
Mick McKinnon
KOG#175
'93 K1100LT, '96 R1100RT, '84 R100RS, 2010 Kawasaki C-14
Tucson, AZ

[longrider]

just curious want to know how things work I do think she needs to have the throttle bodys synchronized because of the idle she has a low idle to low" have to add a little throttle to keep her going say like 900 to 1000rpm? so I think that could be a reason to check the TPS? know any tricks to aline the front wheel with the handle bars? really don't want to bang the front wheel sides into a post to move it straight seems like that could screw up the ABS sincer? also noticed my Bar pad power outlet is busted at the bottom the plug is broke almost off looks like I'll need a new outlet and wire? Problems seem to never end LOL I did take it out for another test ride thats when I noticed the Handle bars not in line with the front wheel, noticed she is touchey on the throttle not real smooth like My Friends K1100RS
Virg

[Flying Duck]

On the LT, thinking the handlbars are not straight is more likely an optical illusion caused by how the dash pad sits - unless your forks or handlebars are bent or triple clamps are tweaked. An easy check is to place a pane of glass (or other object you're sure is absolutely flat) against the upper forks - they should be on the same plane.

Resetting the TPS:
http://www.k11og.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2487

I'd recommmend measuring the voltage before you start moving it around, it's position is very sensitive to reset.

The TPS is loacted at the back of the throttle bodies and looks like this:



If you haven't yet , replacing the plugs and checking the leads should help the idle. IT's advisable to resynch the TBs every time plugs are replaced.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

[longrider]

Curious do you use A 4 tube Mercury gauge to resynch the throttlebodys? setup's like we use to use years ago to resynch the Honda K750 carbs? or is there something better now days? in any case Mine got busted a long time a ago LOL, these day I only own Fuel injected Motorcycle's
Virg

[Flying Duck]

You can use those.

I use this:
http://www.casporttouring.com/store/merchant.mvc?page=CST/CTGY/twinmax
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

[longrider]

I looked at the site good price sounds like a nice Unit I also looked to see what info there was about using it on a Flying brick only found Oil head use? so how does this thing work on a 4 banger? what do you need to do ? with a K11LT?? I understand using on a twin? but not a 4 I can see a lot of use for a TWINMAX On my Truck and Miata and camry?
Virg

[Flying Duck]

What you do from here is use #1 as a reference and then synch 2 to 1, then 3 to 1, then 4 to 1. At the end, they're all balanced.

Note that this is best done with new spark plugs but not absoltuely necessary. If you own a carb balancer, then you can do it whenever you want.

Start engine - warm it up. Idle it until fan comes on, then it's warmed up.

While it's warming up, use the zero knob on the TM to put the needle in the middle. Very simple - turn up to max sensitivity then turn the adjusting knob until needle is in the middle.

Once that's done, pull the fuel pressure regulator hoser off of the #1 TB.

Pull the little black rubber cap off of the #2 TB.

Hook up the hoses from the TM(TwinMax) to #1 and #2. Turn TM sensitivty knob to lowest setting. Adjust airscrew on #2 TB until the TM needle is in the middle. Increase sensitivity on TM a little, readjust screw. Keep increasing the sensitivity and then tweaking airscrew until max sensitivity is reached on TwinMax and the needle is centered. 1 and 2 are now synched.

Put cap back on #2, remove #3 cap and move TM hose to #3.

Then synch 3 to 1, then 4 to 1.

Put hose back on number 1 and Voila! You're done and synched up.

It's very easy and they even print the instructions on the unit.

The vacuum hoses that come with the TM are a little large for BMW TB's so I had to buy $2 worth of vacuum hose at the auto parts store - no big deal.

The other thing is that, since the vavles are opening and closing, the needle "wiggles" but you just bracket the extremes of the wiggle around zero on the TM gauge.


If you think it's all screwed up by a prior owner playing around start by turning the #1 screw in all the way and then backing it out one and a half turns.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

[longrider]

Thanks for that information.
I had a hunch that was how it would be done with only 2 hose's. do you adjust a Carb the same way say like my 2 barrel Holley in my Truck go to the highest Vacuum reading on each air fuel adjustment screw?
I really don't think the guy I bought the Bike from Knew anything about Bikes he didn't have a clue what he had or what needed to be done to get this K11LT back on the road. he had the Bike in a little Plastic rubber made shed.
It was packed in with all the parts in box's I don't think he tinkered with it at all, it sat from 1997 till last year. that could be a lot of the problem? I added a Half bottle of Chevron Pro-Gard fuel injector cleaner it's the Techron stuff right ??
that seemed to really help after about 50 miles she seems to run good but Not great she has a real touchy throttle and the Idle is not in the 900 to 1100 range I had to adjust the idle with the throttle cable. but now that the Fuel pump is working she fires right up everytime. On the highway she seems to love Higher RPM and pulls good as she is. but not as smooth as my friends K11rs? I'm sure she will out run all my other bikes
My 100inch Victory King-Pin would hang with her for a wile but I still think she has way more left in her? but I didn't buy it as a race Bike LOL plan to hang onto her a wile as a touring bike" so if I ask questions I'm learning I like to know what I have and how to work on it, been doing this stuff since 1967 had a bike of somekind ever since"
Thanks for all your help
I ordered a TWINMAX I think I can put it to good use"

[Flying Duck]

If it sat for that long then keep your eye (finger actually) on the hole at the bottom of the bellhousing. Usually when Ks sit that long, the O ring for the clutch nut dries up, cracks and starts leaking oil - which can EVENTUALLY make it to the clutch plate.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE