K11 Owners Group

BMGraeme · Posted: Mon May 12, 2008 6:14 am Post subject: Tranny Oil leak

In the process of trying to locate the source of an electrical problem I noticed oil dripping out from on top of the exhaust collector. Seems to be coming from the area around the clutch actuator. This cannot be a coincidence from the hassle I recently had switching to a new clutch cable. Is it possible that I have damaged a seal by over extending the clutch actuator? I have taken the tranny off before to do a spline lube but never changed any of the gearbox seals - is it a really difficult job or not too bad?

Anything I need to check before I rip the back end of the bike off?
_________________
1980 CB900FA
1994 K1100RS
2008 R1200GSA

Shoganai · Posted: Mon May 12, 2008 7:01 am Post subject:

Can you post a pic?

It might help.
_________________
1993 K1100RS aka The Shop Whore
1994 K1100RS aka Blue Streak

The long road is a rainbow and the pot of gold lies there.
So slip the chain and I'm off again,
You'll find me everywhere. I'm a Rover. - JT

Nana korobi ya oki

BMGraeme · Posted: Mon May 12, 2008 6:08 pm Post subject:

Hi Shoganai. I have not taken the gearbox off yet - will start this weekend when I have time off work. I think I must have damaged something when changing a clutch cable maybe by over extending the actuator arm. Thats the only thing I can think of since thats the only work I have done in that area recently. I'm kinda hoping someone can suggest what I might have damaged by doing that.

When I get the gearbox off I will post pix if it might help.
_________________
1980 CB900FA
1994 K1100RS
2008 R1200GSA

tmarshall57 · Posted: Mon May 12, 2008 6:12 pm Post subject:

I've seen a few threads on this topic and it could be as simple as replacing the rubber boot/seal thingy onto which the clutch actuator arm seats. I believe this can be replaced just by disconnecting the clutch cable, pulling back the actuator arm and slackening the clamp on the boot/seal

Check out part number 3 (23131338731) on the "Clutch Control" page of

http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/MainDiagrams.asp?mospid=47928

Others may confirm if this is the case

Regards

Tony
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K1100RS Special Edition 1997
Arctic Silver/Black

BMGraeme · Posted: Tue May 13, 2008 6:11 am Post subject:

Great call Tony - I got the gaitor off without too much trouble and thats the culprit. New one on order and should get that Thursday.
_________________
1980 CB900FA
1994 K1100RS
2008 R1200GSA

CheapJapCopy · Posted: Tue May 13, 2008 7:57 am Post subject:

Hi there, I have the same problem - thought the bike was on fire - with all the oil on the collector box! Shocked

Do you mind elaborating a bit Graeme? Did you have to take the exhaust off? Thanks in advance.
_________________
1992 K1100RS - Red and gold.

BMGraeme · Posted: Tue May 13, 2008 8:14 am Post subject:

Hi CJC. Yes, the exhaust needs to come off and I took the rear wheel off to as it makes access that bit easier. When you have done that you can see the clutch actuator arm. Undo the locknut and then unscrew the bolt then release the clutch cable. Undo the circlip on the boot with a small flat head driver and then the boot can be pulled off together with the spring behind it. I couldn't work out to start with how this boot seals but it does by using the other side of the actuator arm to push against it.

New one ordered from motobins for about a tenner.
_________________
1980 CB900FA
1994 K1100RS
2008 R1200GSA

CheapJapCopy · Posted: Tue May 13, 2008 9:29 am Post subject:

Thanks for the info, will get onto it soon. I had a look at it, well what I could see anyway, and it looks like rather than being split, it's dislodged, so hopefully I'll get away with refitting it. The oil really gushed out too, not a good look when out with students! "No need to call the fire brigade" said I, as the noxious fumes enveloped the bike - nasty smelling stuff that tranny oil.

EDIT: Ok, I've had a look (Incredibly inaccessible, well done BMW) and it looks like the pin on the actuator has come adrift, fouling the boot, and on the point of falling out by the look of it. (THIS TURNED OUT NOT TO BE THE CASE, it has just perished, as 20 year old rubber tends to Smile

)

EDIT 2: Fortune favours the brave - I took the exhaust off (Easy) and got the boot off (Easy) which is split in two. New one ordered, will be able to fit it easily. The only problem was the exhaust, which has broken into two pieces! Shocked

Looking up welders now..

EDIT 3: Found a welder within 500 yards of my house who will do the job for 30ukp. Looks like a proactive approach will solve nearly every problem this bike can throw at the owner.
_________________
1992 K1100RS - Red and gold.

BMGraeme · Posted: Tue May 13, 2008 6:02 pm Post subject:

I think one of the great things about the older K bikes is that they allow you to work on them. My Japanese bikes of the past would never allow a bolt to be undone without stripping threads. Good luck with welding the exhaust.

Edit 1 - Just a thought - for the pin to get that far over to dislodge the boot, you must have lost the circlip which prevents that from happening. You may want to fit a new one.
_________________
1980 CB900FA
1994 K1100RS
2008 R1200GSA

CheapJapCopy · Posted: Wed May 14, 2008 2:44 pm Post subject:

Well, the pin wasn't misaligned, it just looked to be far over, but this just seems to be the way it is.

Yeah, once the exhaust was off, I was humbled by how easy access to this area was, and changed the boot with the rear wheel on. The exhaust was welded by a local stainless welder for 15UKP and the seal was 10UKP, so the day's work cost 25UKP.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/81929179@N00/2492153369/ The split boot

http://www.flickr.com/photos/81929179@N00/2491183655/ The exhaust, prior to mending.

The lesson here is that no matter how difficult the job looks, it's just best to bite the bullet, as these bikes are designed to be worked on.
_________________
1992 K1100RS - Red and gold.