K11 Owners Group

drmalacarne

Hi, Friends.
In the last weeks, I saw, for my surprise, oil under my KLT!!
And under my Springer all was dry....

I take my K11 to my mechanic and put off the shaft and gear to see the output shaft seal.

The Oring of the output shaft was leaking, and the flyweel was all oiled inside. It must be dry inside, just like the outside, I imagine.

Examining the friction plate, I saw the friction material very close on the pins, and my mechanic tell me that was time to put a new Friction plate, and friction cover and pressure plate.

And now the question: must I take advantage that the bike is disassembled and change the complete set?
Anybody have the final thickness tolerance for the friction plate? Whem it must be changed?
My KLT never slide the clutch and have 43k miles.
Must I put the old set inside again and wait for the slide of the plate?
Thanks in advance.
Guilherme.

_________________
1994 K1100LT SE n° 0267
1998 HD Heritage Springer 95th anniversary
Yes, a Hog and a Beemer can live together!

Flying Duck

I'd only change the clutch plate at 43k miles. The other parts clutch surfaces can be cleaned with brake cleaner to remove the oil.

This part is the only one I'd replace:

_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

duckbubbles · Posted: Wed May 28, 2008 8:49 pm Post subject:

Since you are already in there, I strongly suggest that you do replace the clutch plate, if for no other reason, because you ARE in there. If you only had a few thousand miles on it, that might be different.

Cleaning up the pressure plates with brake cleaner and maybe some light scrubbing with fine steel wool will do ok on them. Careful reassembly and you'll be good for quite a while.

Frank
_________________
85 K100/1100RS, 321,000 miles, 25 years
96 Ducati 900SS/SP, sold it
05 R1200ST, 35,000 miles, 5 years
400,000 BMW miles

Frank · Posted: Fri May 30, 2008 4:51 pm Post subject:

G'day

While you are so far down the track having pulled everything out, you might as well replace the rear main oil seal for the engine. I had one fail on my K100RT and replaced the clutch as well as it was showing signs of needing replacement in the not too far future.

My K1100LT is needing a new clutch now as it is slipping a fair bit when I try to roll on in top gear. A bit of a worry when I overtake a car on the highway and get lot of revs and no more forward motion.

I will be replacing the RMS when I start to pull it down today.

Looking forward to this job - NOT.
_________________
Ride safe

Frank
Gold Coast Australia

BMW 1997 K1100LT - White

Ulysses Member 33144
StruggleTown Tourers

CheapJapCopy · Posted: Fri May 30, 2008 6:55 pm Post subject:

Ah, but those clutches last forever! Wink

_________________
1992 K1100RS - Red and gold.

drmalacarne · Posted: Fri May 30, 2008 7:32 pm Post subject:

Thanks a lot, K11OG friends!
I ordered a new friction plate and will make the right job!
And yes, I'll change the main shaft seal too.
Sincerely.
Guilherme.
_________________
1994 K1100LT SE n° 0267
1998 HD Heritage Springer 95th anniversary
Yes, a Hog and a Beemer can live together!

drmalacarne · Posted: Sat Jul 12, 2008 2:54 pm Post subject:

Friends, now the rear part of my KLT ins in place, and I made a reiforcement in the top case supports, because last trip to Chile, they broked.
Here are some images.
Now I'm waiting the fork boots to disassemble the forks and change the seals.
I'll change the front disc brakes pins too.

Guilherme.
_________________
1994 K1100LT SE n° 0267
1998 HD Heritage Springer 95th anniversary
Yes, a Hog and a Beemer can live together!

Off the grid · Posted: Sat Jul 12, 2008 4:50 pm Post subject:

Nice mod!

Now wash that bike dammit! Cool

_________________
Bane of your existence since July 2006
2007 Triumph Tiger ABS. "Sabertooth"
2009 Husqvarna TE610. "The dirty Italian mistress"

drmalacarne · Posted: Sun Jul 13, 2008 8:39 pm Post subject:

YEs, OTG, I'll ASAP!
Just in case if anyone ask:
I cut a piece of steel in the shape of the rack support, then smooth the edges. Bend in the curvature of the racks and made the holes for the stainless studs. Paint black with the dry process and bolt to the racks.
The final result is very good, and looks like factory made....modest me, not? Rolling Eyes

Guilherme.
_________________
1994 K1100LT SE n° 0267
1998 HD Heritage Springer 95th anniversary
Yes, a Hog and a Beemer can live together!

Mystic Red · Posted: Sun Jul 13, 2008 8:51 pm Post subject:

Guilherme, very nice fabrication. What thickness of steel did you use?

drmalacarne · Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 9:05 pm Post subject:

Thanks Scott!
I used a 3/16in steel bar.
Guilherme.
_________________
1994 K1100LT SE n° 0267
1998 HD Heritage Springer 95th anniversary
Yes, a Hog and a Beemer can live together!

jaaars · Joined: 28 Jun 2005 Posts: 19 Location: Ashland Oregon

Don't forget to replace the diaphram spring!!!!!!!!!! This 49.00 piece will save you frustration later, I didn't do it and had to replace the parts AGAIN 1 year later. just my 2 cents. Jeff
_________________
Boot and Saddles

drmalacarne · Posted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 10:54 am Post subject:

Thanks for the advice, Jaars!
But too late, the rear drive train is already in place... Rolling Eyes

I hope that spring last for more 50k miles.
Guilherme.
_________________
1994 K1100LT SE n° 0267
1998 HD Heritage Springer 95th anniversary
Yes, a Hog and a Beemer can live together!

Phil Marvin · Posted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 12:26 pm Post subject:

Hi, Guilherme,
My K1100LT had 122k miles (about 200k km) when I sold it - with the original clutch. It has an additional 30k km with the new owner with no clutch problems. K1100 clutches last a long time. When you look at a new clutch, the friction material is very close to the rivets. I would guess that, had your mechanic measured the clutch friction material remaining, there would have been VERY little wear from new specification.

The two common failures which cause an oiled clutch are the input shaft seal in the gearbox and the clutch gland nut "O" ring, which dries out and cracks after a number of years. If you are ever "in there" again, it would be a good idea to replace that "O" ring, if it hasn't been already done.
Ride Safe,
_________________
Ride Safe,
Phil Marvin in El Paso, TX
'94 K75A/3
'95 K75RTP

drmalacarne · Posted: Sat Jul 26, 2008 5:08 pm Post subject:

OK, the major part of the service is done!, And I'm salivating to put my knuckes again in that brick!
The fork boots. Thanks a lot, Jim!!!

And now in place.

I use straps to fix the boots.
New stailess steel disc brakes studs and clips. From Motorworks, UK.

A front fender extension, from Pyramid (Motorworks again).

I must paint this fender again later.

New paints cases. The rubbers are a bit ckacked. Anymone change these rubbers? It's a difficult job.
A new black paint in the front forks.

The handlebar wheights are severerly rusted, because water accumulated all those years inside the plastic caps. Put them off and ordered rustless steel ones custom made from a lathe shop.

The whole front train in place! Yes, OTG, I will wash that bike soon!!!

And some other mods are in course, like xenon front lights and new fixing for the rear speakers.
GUilherme.
_________________
1994 K1100LT SE n° 0267
1998 HD Heritage Springer 95th anniversary
Yes, a Hog and a Beemer can live together!

Flying Duck · Posted: Sat Jul 26, 2008 5:43 pm Post subject:

Darn you, GUilherme - those stainless brake rollers look so nice that now I'm going to have to get some. Very Happy

_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

Jim · Posted: Sat Jul 26, 2008 11:13 pm Post subject: tires

Guilherme - I see you're running Michelins - which tires are they, and where are they made? I can't tell from the pic.

Fork boots look good! Hopefully you won't have any more leaks!
_________________
Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repaired!
1992 K75RTP 46,000

"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed."

drmalacarne · Posted: Sat Jul 26, 2008 11:17 pm Post subject:

Dont worry, Duck! Look at
http://www.motorworks.co.uk/bmw/products/product.php?f=i&code=BA_15_40_IA_50&shnew=New&model=K75/100/1100&shnewcode=15&part=Brakes&sub_part=Brake%20discs%20and%20fittings,%20front&modelcode=40&partcode=IA&source_code=BA_15_40_IA_50&spPage=2
And buy a set!
I believe that the stainless steel ones lasts more miles than the aluminim.

And the sound of weared bobbin circlip are irritating...
Guilherme.
_________________
1994 K1100LT SE n° 0267
1998 HD Heritage Springer 95th anniversary
Yes, a Hog and a Beemer can live together!

Jim · Posted: Sat Jul 26, 2008 11:23 pm Post subject: SS bobbins

except they don't ship to the US and Canada.
_________________
Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repaired!
1992 K75RTP 46,000

"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed."

drmalacarne · Posted: Sat Jul 26, 2008 11:23 pm Post subject:

Jim. Here is 00:21h AM, and I'll go to bed soon...
And tomorow I'll go to the garage and see the type of my Michelin tires.
I chanced then just before my Santiago, Chile trip, and they have 13k kilometers.
And thanks for the boots again, and I hope Tom Jobim suits your taste! Wink

Guilherme.
_________________
1994 K1100LT SE n° 0267
1998 HD Heritage Springer 95th anniversary
Yes, a Hog and a Beemer can live together!