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hirschhs Flying Brick Rider

Joined: 28 Dec 2006 Posts: 343 Location: Bucks, UK
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Posted: Fri Dec 19, 2008 7:46 am Post subject: ABS lights |
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I've done a bit of a search but can't find anything which is identical to what I've got..
Minding my own business at 80mph ish when the ABS lights start to flash. R and L sequentially. Pressed the ABS button as I was going along and when I'd stopped but no difference.
Brakes are working fine as far as I can tell.. (Jan 98 LT ABS 2)
any thoughts?  _________________ Cheers, Steve H _______________________________________
K-less in Bucks
2001 ST1100A
1994 Yamaha 600 Diversion 'Hers'
2006 Kawasaki Z750s 'Hers'
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Flying Duck PsyKotic Waterfowl

Joined: 27 Jan 2005 Posts: 10102 Location: Bumf***, WA
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Posted: Fri Dec 19, 2008 9:47 am Post subject: |
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When the ABS lights are flashing it means your ABS is in fault mode. When this happens, your brakes will still work normally so there's no safety issue aside from the fact that you don't have ABS anymore.
The first suspect is a battery on it's way out as the ABS control unit is sensitive to low voltage. If it isn't the battery then there's a problem in the ABS system. You can hook up a 12V LED to the diagnostic plug and find out which component is causing the control unit to fault:
http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech.shtml
The ABS switch should keep the lights from blinking for several minutes. If that doesn't happen then your ABS switch isn't working. This is usually cuased by the wires coming loose from the back of the switch so they probably need to be resoldered. Or there's corrosion builr up on the contacts in the switch. You can take the switch apart and clean it. _________________ 93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE |
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hirschhs Flying Brick Rider

Joined: 28 Dec 2006 Posts: 343 Location: Bucks, UK
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Posted: Fri Dec 19, 2008 10:17 am Post subject: |
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ok.. it's a fairly new gel battery so it shouldn't be that. Certainly possible that the wires on the back of the abs switch are faulty - that's already happened on the hazard switch. I'll have a dig around..
thanks FD.
regards to all
Steve _________________ Cheers, Steve H _______________________________________
K-less in Bucks
2001 ST1100A
1994 Yamaha 600 Diversion 'Hers'
2006 Kawasaki Z750s 'Hers'
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owrstrich Flying Brick Rider

Joined: 29 Oct 2006 Posts: 2566 Location: CheezConsin
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Posted: Fri Dec 19, 2008 11:12 am Post subject: |
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mes thinks at 80mph there would be lotts o volts...
j o _________________ yeeeeeehaaaaaaa... |
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fnord Mad Brick Rider

Joined: 23 Oct 2008 Posts: 147 Location: Colebrook, CT
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Posted: Fri Dec 19, 2008 11:17 am Post subject: |
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Perhaps even a gigawatt or two. _________________ 1993 K1100RS
1999 Jeep Wrangler |
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hirschhs Flying Brick Rider

Joined: 28 Dec 2006 Posts: 343 Location: Bucks, UK
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Posted: Fri Dec 19, 2008 11:44 am Post subject: |
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AMPle, I imagine..  _________________ Cheers, Steve H _______________________________________
K-less in Bucks
2001 ST1100A
1994 Yamaha 600 Diversion 'Hers'
2006 Kawasaki Z750s 'Hers'
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Flying Duck PsyKotic Waterfowl

Joined: 27 Jan 2005 Posts: 10102 Location: Bumf***, WA
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Posted: Fri Dec 19, 2008 12:02 pm Post subject: |
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I don't understand watt you guys are talkin' about. _________________ 93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE |
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hirschhs Flying Brick Rider

Joined: 28 Dec 2006 Posts: 343 Location: Bucks, UK
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Posted: Fri Dec 19, 2008 12:05 pm Post subject: |
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thank **** for that; I thought I was currently isolated.. _________________ Cheers, Steve H _______________________________________
K-less in Bucks
2001 ST1100A
1994 Yamaha 600 Diversion 'Hers'
2006 Kawasaki Z750s 'Hers'
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K11Martin Mad Brick Rider

Joined: 22 Jul 2008 Posts: 123 Location: North Notts, UK
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Posted: Fri Dec 19, 2008 2:54 pm Post subject: |
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Ohm I God....Watt are we doing here? _________________
Currently riding a '93 K1100LT (ABS1) decked out with lights and aerials (Ex 70's Vespa rider)
Why not join the UK owners club at http://forum.bmw-club.org.uk/ |
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owrstrich Flying Brick Rider

Joined: 29 Oct 2006 Posts: 2566 Location: CheezConsin
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Posted: Fri Dec 19, 2008 3:05 pm Post subject: |
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im trying to stay current with this thread...
j o _________________ yeeeeeehaaaaaaa... |
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Flying Duck PsyKotic Waterfowl

Joined: 27 Jan 2005 Posts: 10102 Location: Bumf***, WA
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Posted: Fri Dec 19, 2008 3:25 pm Post subject: |
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Check the battery ground - can't hurt. _________________ 93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE |
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rydor Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 16 Nov 2006 Posts: 1304 Location: Southern Illinois, U.S.A.
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Posted: Fri Dec 19, 2008 6:50 pm Post subject: |
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This won't fix the underlying problem, but will remove the faults from your ABS brain. Worked for me.
ABS II reset procedure (hijacked from IBMWR)
There is a black 3 pin diagnostic connector on the left side of the bike above and to the left of the battery, you will need to remove the side cover to gain access. This connector will have a blue plastic weather protector connected to the open end. Pin #1 will have two Brown/Black wires, Pin #2 will have one Brown/White wire and Pin #3 one Brown/Green wire. Here are the pin functions for this diagnostic connector.
Reset ABS Fault
Connect a wire from a good frame ground or battery - to pin #2 of the diagnostic connector.
Press and hold the ABS switch on the dash, turn the Ignition ON while holding the ABS switch depressed for 30 seconds. (Some folks report this works better if you turn on the Ignition and THEN press the ABS switch for 30 seconds. Both methods have worked for me). Release the ABS switch, turn the ignition OFF, remove the ground wire from pin #2. The ABS fault code 'should' now be erased. |
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Flying Duck PsyKotic Waterfowl

Joined: 27 Jan 2005 Posts: 10102 Location: Bumf***, WA
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Posted: Fri Dec 19, 2008 7:22 pm Post subject: |
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The reset might do the trick. You never know. K bike ABS is VooDoo. _________________ 93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE |
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Off the grid Chaotic Good

Joined: 05 Jul 2006 Posts: 3414 Location: At the local taco truck waiting for Jo.
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Posted: Fri Dec 19, 2008 10:02 pm Post subject: |
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The only fault I ever had with my ABS was a fault code from a dead/low battery...the reset feature fixed it and I haven't had a problem since.....been 2 years now. (knock on wood) _________________ Bane of your existence since July 2006
2007 Triumph Tiger ABS. "Sabertooth"
2009 Husqvarna TE610. "The dirty Italian mistress"
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K11Martin Mad Brick Rider

Joined: 22 Jul 2008 Posts: 123 Location: North Notts, UK
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Posted: Sat Dec 20, 2008 4:22 am Post subject: |
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Thinking laterally here, check the clearance between the rear sensor and the ABS ring. If the final drive bearing is starting to collapse, this effect will cause the clearance to alter, and the ABS lights to come on. In extreme cases the sensor may end up touching the ring. I had this happen to me while in France a few months ago.
Sometimes also shows itself as a tight-spot when spinning the back wheel by hand.
My ABS reset switch didn't work either - broken wire on the back of the switch. These switches are also prone to moisture ingress in rainy climes and benefit from being stripped down and a smear of petroleum jelly applied to the small shaft which moves the contact slider. _________________
Currently riding a '93 K1100LT (ABS1) decked out with lights and aerials (Ex 70's Vespa rider)
Why not join the UK owners club at http://forum.bmw-club.org.uk/ |
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hirschhs Flying Brick Rider

Joined: 28 Dec 2006 Posts: 343 Location: Bucks, UK
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Posted: Sat Dec 20, 2008 8:14 am Post subject: |
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thanks for the advice gentlemen..
Final drive bearing was replaced in the last 6 months.
As it happens, got on the bike last night to go home and abs lights behaved normally. This morning too so maybe it was a minor aberration... _________________ Cheers, Steve H _______________________________________
K-less in Bucks
2001 ST1100A
1994 Yamaha 600 Diversion 'Hers'
2006 Kawasaki Z750s 'Hers'
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bmwmick Flying Brick Rider

Joined: 07 Jun 2003 Posts: 907 Location: Tucson, AZ
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Posted: Sat Dec 20, 2008 10:22 am Post subject: Re: ABS lights |
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| hirschhs wrote: | I've done a bit of a search but can't find anything which is identical to what I've got..
Minding my own business at 80mph ish when the ABS lights start to flash. R and L sequentially. Pressed the ABS button as I was going along and when I'd stopped but no difference.
Brakes are working fine as far as I can tell.. (Jan 98 LT ABS 2)
any thoughts?  |
Steve,
If the ABS lamps continue to flash AFTER you have pressed the ABS switch, you have a bad connection either at the switch or in the wiring to the ABS unit. Fix that first.
The fact that your system only fails at 80mph leads me to think there is a wheel rotation fault. Are your tires both the stock sizes? There is some leeway in the size of the tires but not much. The ABS counts the number of pulses from each wheel and compares them.
There is lots of ABS data right here: http://k11og.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2110
You do not have a battery problem, they usually only show up at initial start. Check the clearance on both front and rear wheel sensors. The are just a coil of wire wrapped around a core. You can measure them with an Ohm meter. You should see around 135 Ohms on each sensor.
Mick _________________ Mick McKinnon
KOG#175
'93 K1100LT, '96 R1100RT, '84 R100RS, 2010 Kawasaki C-14
Tucson, AZ |
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chopper_harris Flying Brick Rider

Joined: 28 Dec 2007 Posts: 232 Location: Nr Wigan, UK
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Posted: Sun Dec 21, 2008 3:09 pm Post subject: |
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Check the front ABS sensor wire, where it passes up inside the front mudguard (or fender, for our colonial cousins ).
The sensor wire shoiuld be seurely cable tied to the brake flexi-pipe.
If the wire has been pulled taut between the fork brace and the fairing, it can foul against the tyre, and wear through. _________________ C1 200 (2001)
R100 RS (1990)
NSU Quickly N (1964)
Honda 400/4 F1 (1977)
MotoGuzzi 1000C (1978)
Suzuki TL 1000 R (1999)
Kawasaki KLV1000 (2005)
K12R Sport (2007) - Wifeys |
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hirschhs Flying Brick Rider

Joined: 28 Dec 2006 Posts: 343 Location: Bucks, UK
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Posted: Mon Dec 22, 2008 8:50 am Post subject: |
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thanks again gents., loads of good advice to keep me busy over xmas! I do have an oversized rear wheel as it happens but right now sitting amongst the dreaming spires, I can't recall the measurement.
I do know it's round.
 _________________ Cheers, Steve H _______________________________________
K-less in Bucks
2001 ST1100A
1994 Yamaha 600 Diversion 'Hers'
2006 Kawasaki Z750s 'Hers'
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Tim (Midland Section) Flying Brick Rider

Joined: 08 Apr 2005 Posts: 960 Location: Pinxton, Nottingham, England.
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Posted: Mon Dec 22, 2008 8:13 pm Post subject: |
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Now for my 2d (50c). The differing wheel sizes MAY be a cause, but IMHO that would have shown as soon as it was fitted. I favour an electrical "tune up" as mentioned in IBMWR. Especially connectors under the tank, which tend to hold moisture & rot. The techy way would be to read the fault code to find where to look, then "look" with a multimeter. If you need help in this, PM me for phone number if you wish to chat (on my internet phone 1st hour is free after 19:00). I am experienced in ABS 1 & 2 fault finding. not as daunting as it may first seem. _________________ Regards Tim,
Grey haired riders don't get that way by pure luck
1996 Guzzi Cali3 LAPD
1972 750 Commando
G6HRN
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