K11 Owners Group

Saltcreek · Posted: Sat Jun 13, 2009 6:19 pm Post subject:

I bought the ring connector to disable the sidestand switch today and installed it. I decided the risk of the switch failing was greater than the risk of forgetting the sidestand.

The reason I mention this here is that the connector for that switch is really easy to find. It's right behind the right side cover and the wires coming from the switch are brown and brown/blue stripe. If the other side of the connector which goes to the motronic has the ring connector you could pull it apart and check for continuity. If you see a wire nut or twisted wire with electrical tape you may have solved that part of your problem. If there's nothing there but the connector you could make a jumper wire to complete the circuit and test for engine start.
_________________
Jim

1994 K1100LT Mystic Red, bfd, 37000 miles, sold Sad

2009 Wilderness Systems Zephyr 155 ST
2002 Litespeed titanium

sailbahama · Joined: 08 Jun 2009 Posts: 11 Location: Atlanta/Louisville

thanks for the info about locating the wiring for the side stand switch.

I had an interesting morning as follows:

located side stand switch wiring, behind right side plastic bodywork.

the "connector" had been "jumped" that is to say, the two pin connector (top portion of the connector) was disconnected from the lower half of the connector. Then a "loop" of wire with female ends had been connected to the male connections of the top portion of the "connector" jeeze this is hard to describe in words.

I disconnected this "loop" and re connected the top and bottom portions of the connector.

The bike started. I was elated, thinking the problem was solved....

But... it didn't continue to run. It shut off as if it ran out of gas.

Now, when I turn the key, there is no fuel pump whine. And the bike won't start again.

Prior to the above wiring change, when the key was turned on, I heard the fuel pump whine.

Jim

Spray some contact cleaner in the switch - if nothing else, WD-40. And work the kill switch back and forth - dirty connections/contacts are known gremlins. Check the clutch switch, too.

I think I even sprayed something in the kill/start switch on one of my older K's when it wouldn't start.
_________________
Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repaired!
1992 K75RTP 46,000

"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed."

Saltcreek · Posted: Sun Jun 14, 2009 5:07 pm Post subject:

The kill switch is the one that will keep the pump from running. If it's not that or a bad connection feeding the fuel pump, I think all that's left are the ignition switch and the motronic.

I still don't see how the headlamp fits in.
_________________
Jim

1994 K1100LT Mystic Red, bfd, 37000 miles, sold Sad

2009 Wilderness Systems Zephyr 155 ST
2002 Litespeed titanium

sailbahama · Joined: 08 Jun 2009 Posts: 11 Location: Atlanta/Louisville

Further cleaning of the black "connector" for the side stand switch wiring, and spraying with contact cleaner, as suggested in this thread, has resulted in the fuel pump whining as it should upon key turn, and the bike does start.

Now, I'm sractching my head, because, as also mentioned in this thread, an issue with the side stand switch shouldn't make the fuel pump refuse to whine upon inigition key being turned. Or would it?

Anyway, thanks to everyone who has weighted in on this. I feel like I'm getting somewhere at last. I am amazed that connections that look and feel secure, are actually not making a connection at all. Meaning the side stand black "connector". It looked and felt very secure. But in reality wasn't making a good electrical connection.

It makes me want to go over the entire bike for any more black "connector" boxes and unplug and spray them with contact cleaner.

As mentioned by another poster on this thread, I am also still wondering how the headlights going off and the bike still running, has anything to do with the side stand switch connection.

So, for now, the bike is running. But I'm not about to head off to the wild blue yonder just yet. Maybe after I install a new front brake master cylinder and replace the fork seals, if it's still starting and running consistantly, I'll take it for a short ride. But, the headlight issue still has me second guessing that there is another "issue" about to bite me in the butt. By the way, the headlights haven't gone out again.

One more possible hint to a solution...... during this period when the bike wasn't starting and even before that, while it was running ok, the highbeam indicator on the dash was not working. Now it is working again. I can't imagine how a faulty side stand switch would affect the high beam indicator.

Thanks to everyone who has provided wisdom and encouragement.
Jeff

Saltcreek · Posted: Mon Jun 15, 2009 7:17 am Post subject:

Headlamp has to be a separate issue. Both the wire for the high beam indicator and the headlight come through the left combined switch which has a multiwire connector.

I'm looking forward to this post being renamed "electrical mystery, solved".
_________________
Jim

1994 K1100LT Mystic Red, bfd, 37000 miles, sold Sad

2009 Wilderness Systems Zephyr 155 ST
2002 Litespeed titanium

Scott_Anderson · Posted: Mon Jun 15, 2009 7:33 am Post subject:

Think you have more than 1 issue here.
Yes the sidestand switch will kill the engine and fuel pump, that was it's intent to not let the engine run when parked on the side stand.

The high beam dash lamp is just like the one in your car. It's wired to the high beam lamp circuit as well.
The next time your headlamp goes out check and see what else goes out with it. Tail lights, turn signals, horn, map light, radio(?), heated grips(?), 4-way flashers, and windscreen.

You may be on the right track, go thru all your plug connectors and clean apply some dielectric grease(to keep moisture out).

Good luck
_________________
Ride safe.

1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)

bsettlefl · Joined: 05 Nov 2006 Posts: 5

Maybe I didn't read far enough to see this already suggested, but I'd suspect two problems from my experience: a failing hall unit, and dirty starter/alternator brushes.

Hall unit before a complete failure will internittently kill the ignition, and sometimes start right back up, and sometimes require a cooling off period. It gets worse and worse, or at least mine did, before leaving me completely dead on the road.

Dirty starter/alternator contacts or worn brushes will cause an otherwise healthy battery to act like it can't carry the load. My first eye-opener at these was pulling off for gas and not being able to start. Light dim, slow crank. Tried to bump start, and the instant the engine turned (and thus turned the starter) everything was fine. Anyway, they are easy to get out once the battery tray is removed and easy to disassemble. I do this yearly now.

Side stand switch - I don't know if this is universal, but on my 93 LT if the switch circuit is active and the stand down, moving the kill switch from off to on with the ignition on will NOT activate the fuel pump.

Tim (Midland Section) · Posted: Wed Jun 17, 2009 6:04 pm Post subject:

Just my £0.02, Check also the tank connector, which too corrodes. Occasionally, it has been known for the cables in that area to fracture inside the insulation.