K11 Owners Group

[Ragman]

Alas, I beleive my ignition switch tumblers are toast.

The key will not turn to shut down the bike. I finally managed to turn it off. The key was always hanging up. Both my keys will not work.

After consulting my Clymers Manual and surfing, I can not figuer out how to remove the switch.

My bike is a '95 K1100LT.

Can you help?

Ragman
_________________
"When injustice becomes law, resistance becomes duty."
~Thomas Jefferson

1995 K1100LT
1980 Hadley Giggleson FLHC

[Saltcreek]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-K1100LT-K1100RS-K1100-ignition-key-switch-lock_W0QQitemZ260426704449QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotorcycles_Parts_Accessories?hash=item3ca2a42641&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245
_________________
Jim

1994 K1100LT Mystic Red, bfd, 37000 miles, sold
2009 Wilderness Systems Zephyr 155 ST
2002 Litespeed titanium

[Tim (Midland Section)]

Tis a pain to remove, Try this:-
This guide assumes some mechanical prowess & experience. The idea of the article is to help owners to tackle what at first seems untenable or prohibitively expensive. The job was started after the switch became unreliable electrically & the steering lock sometimes jammed. Total time: - About 2 1/2 hours.

1. You will need: - Allen Key set, 10mm ring spanner, 32mm socket, ratchet drive, electric drill, sharp 8mm bit, 2off 8mm x 30mm allen bolts or new lock security screws, watchmakers screwdriver, flat needle file, tweezers, paper, pen, tray, WD40, cotton buds, grease, big hammer, lump of soft wood approx 15”x 1”x 2” & a Clymer manual.
2. Remove handlebar cover, protect tank with a soft cloth, remove handlebars & lay on tank (not you, the bars).
3. Remove the chrome bar that retains the cables to the yoke.
4. Pull the cables away from the switch area & drill the bolt heads, pressing hard, so that the drill keeps cutting, otherwise the bolt will harden & become “a pig to drill”. My bolts had a depression in the top, which helped keep the drill central.
5. Remove the top yoke, by loosening the 4 clamp bolts & undoing the big nut in the centre. Then whilst holding the lump of wood under the yoke, hammer the wood smartly upwards. The yoke should move reasonably easily if all the clamp bolts are loose enough. Yoke removal is necessary as the lock is nearly five inches long.
6. Remove remains of drilled off bolts from lock.
7. At the bottom of the lock, find a small screw sealed with red paint. Scrape the paint away. Remove the screw completely, DO NOT lose it. Pull the white plastic switch assembly downwards from the bottom of the lock casting.
8. Gently release the cover clips to reveal the switch innards. Clean, regrease & reassemble.
9. Do not refit switch yet.
10. Sitting at a table & in good light, work over the tray, to catch any escaping wards (brass lock bits) & small springs.
11. About 1” down the casting from the key end of the lock, there is a small hole. With the key in the ON position, push the watchmakers screwdriver into said hole & pull the key and the lock barrel out together.
12. Draw a diagram of the lock barrel to show the positions of each ward, remove the key gently, noting that the wards move as the key is extracted. Lift the wards out one at a time, noting the stamped number on the side of them & which slot they occupied.
13. Clean & lightly file the flat face of the wards to remove any burrs. Clean barrel, reassemble, leaving the bottom one (a different shape from the rest) out & lightly spray with WD40. Insert key, ensure that the wards move to be level with the barrel. If not, you have them out of order.
14. Slightly spread the legs of the omitted one & re-fit, when pushed in it should stay down.
15. If all is well, put the barrel back in, turn the key to steering lock position, then push the screwdriver into the hole to release the last ward. This one holds the barrel in place. The barrel MUST NOT come out when the key is removed. Check for normal operation.
16. Grease the mechanism in the bottom of the lock.
17. Now refit the switch into the casting, lining up the odd shaped pin with the hole & the plastic tang with the slot.
18. Check for correct electrical operation.
19. Offer lock to yoke, then refit yoke, ensuring that ALL the cables that should be, are between the fork legs.
20. Fit new bolts to lock.
21. As ever, reassembly is the reverse of disassembly.
22. Wash hands & pat yourself on the back for your achievement & a saving of about £100 in labour charges.

HTH
_________________
Regards Tim,

Grey haired riders don't get that way by pure luck
1996 Guzzi Cali3 LAPD
1972 750 Commando
G6HRN
#485

[Ragman]

Tim,

Thank you for a great answer to my delema. It explained everything to a "T".

I fix a lot of things on the beemer, but I found a dealer who will install a new keyed switch ($30) and between 1 & 2 hrs. labor.

So I decided to take him up on it. I'm more than a bit clumsey.

Thank you again for taking the time to explain everything. I will keep the post for future and to help anyone else who runs into this problem. Yours were the only instruction I came across after MUCH research.

Ragman

Ragman
_________________
"When injustice becomes law, resistance becomes duty."
~Thomas Jefferson

1995 K1100LT
1980 Hadley Giggleson FLHC

[Tim (Midland Section)]

Tis a pleasure. BTW I didn't write that last night. I try to write up every job I do on the K. Eventually they get published in the UK BMW club Journal. If you have any more jobs to be done, the lads & lasses on here will know the answer or where to find it.
_________________
Regards Tim,

Grey haired riders don't get that way by pure luck
1996 Guzzi Cali3 LAPD
1972 750 Commando
G6HRN
#485

[Ragman]

You bet!!
_________________
"When injustice becomes law, resistance becomes duty."
~Thomas Jefferson

1995 K1100LT
1980 Hadley Giggleson FLHC