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opinion on using choke and other questions
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supercat1
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 11 Aug 2009
Posts: 458
Location: Hoboken, NJ

PostPosted: Wed Aug 19, 2009 10:46 pm    Post subject: opinion on using choke and other questions Reply with quote

is it acceptable practice to use it on start up? for some reason i got it into my head that i shouldn't be using choke on start up of the bike ... but that ended up meaning it didn't start up correctly. tonight i got my copy of the clymer (holy crap awesome) and it says to use it. so i gave it a shot, and what do you know, it starts first try and warms up great. it is at the "position 2" location (about half way). is that too much? i know after a minute the bike has no issues so the choke isn't needed beyond just initial start up.

also ... gotta find that clicking/rattling noise i mentioned earlier. here is a vid i just took that has the sound in it. it is most evident at the 15second mark. does this all sound normal? i just don't remember the sound previously.

click to view


thanks!
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Jim
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 19, 2009 10:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds normal to me. Yes - use the choke. I don't have to use mine when it's 90 degrees out...
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supercat1
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 11 Aug 2009
Posts: 458
Location: Hoboken, NJ

PostPosted: Wed Aug 19, 2009 10:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yeah, it isn't 90 out right now. just rained and is only like 70. but it is also in a garage (with the door just opened to vent fumes) so it probably is even cooler than that and it has sat all day. i have noticed it starts right up after sitting outside at work. so yeah, i guess that is all cool then.

after duck said that the bikes sound like a box of rocks i figured the sound wasn't a big deal (still don't know what the timing gear is though ... clymer maybe?). but thought it prudent to check. i know the sound on my digital camera sucks but, it can be heard a little.
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Phil Marvin
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Joined: 03 Apr 2003
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Location: El Paso, Texas, USA

PostPosted: Wed Aug 19, 2009 11:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi, Supercat1,
If you don't know, the choke lever is basically a throttle advance. There is no problem with using the lever - full on to start and 1/2 on at idle so it doesn't die. After a couple of blocks, it is no longer needed.
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Scott_Anderson
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 20, 2009 12:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I didn't hear anything out of the ordinary to me.
Actually sounded pretty good.
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owrstrich
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 29 Oct 2006
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Location: CheezConsin

PostPosted: Thu Aug 20, 2009 12:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

good evening supercat1...

some k11oldgeezersi use nitrous instead of the choke...





results may vary...

j o
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Off the grid
Chaotic Good


Joined: 05 Jul 2006
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 20, 2009 2:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds pretty fkn good to me.

Just ride it and enjoy it. You are over analyzing much like I did when I first got the bike. It's good to have your ear tuned in to problems, but I think that motoheap is running jus fine says bug.
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max
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Joined: 22 Aug 2005
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 20, 2009 6:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds OK - the idle might be a bit low (due to the cold engine, as you say) so yep - use the fast-idle "choke" to get the oil moving, then you can back it off when it's a bit more "loose". I think the official idle is 950-1050rpm (IIRC - check your Clymers) and because the RS here always sounded a bit labored on really cold starts I've upped mine to about 1050-1100 anyway as a personal thing - I don't get to idle much in my riding anyway.

Also, if it helps, there is a kind of choke - it's built into the engine electronics to notice a cold engine (low coolant temp) and run a bit richer... The even older Ks with the analogue fuel injection even had a "richen mixture after starter pressed" feature, don't think the Motronic bikes kept this tho.

Anyway - welcome to the OG - hope you enjoy the bike!

Max

PS about the Clymers too - if in doubt, ask here. It's usually good, but in places they've swapped info between models and got figures wrong too - I'd always suggest running any repairs in parallel with the official BMW service manual (see the Tech Stickies forum to find a link to download the PDF) and past that ask here as there's usually someone who's been there before! Wink
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Flying Duck
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Joined: 27 Jan 2005
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 20, 2009 8:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds really bad to me. I'll take it off of your hands for a grand. Laughing
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supercat1
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 11 Aug 2009
Posts: 458
Location: Hoboken, NJ

PostPosted: Thu Aug 20, 2009 10:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Flying Duck wrote:
Sounds really bad to me. I'll take it off of your hands for a grand. Laughing


throw in "kato" with that grand and you can have sebastian! Wink

thanks for the positives guys! i figured i was over analyzing but i figured better to get a good base level at the start.

this weekend is spark plug replacement weekend. supposedly they haven't been changed in about 3 to 4 years.
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Phil Marvin
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Joined: 03 Apr 2003
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 20, 2009 3:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

[quote="supercat1] this weekend is spark plug replacement weekend. supposedly they haven't been changed in about 3 to 4 years.[/quote]

Hi, Supercat1,
Do you already have the plugs? If not, do you know what plugs you are going to put in the bike? There are cheaper, as-good-as or better, plugs (NGK, NGK Iridium, Autolite, etc.) to replace the (ridiculously expensive) Bosch plugs.
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supercat1
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 11 Aug 2009
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Location: Hoboken, NJ

PostPosted: Thu Aug 20, 2009 4:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yeah, got the bosch set that duck suggested in my other thread. the reason i got those is because it was $24 for the set of 4 and it seemed the ngk were more expensive + needed the cap, and a census of the people i work with produced little to no positive feedback on autolites. so i just got the bosch.
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Flying Duck
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 20, 2009 7:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just to clarify, I didn't actually "suggest" the Bosch plugs. I mentioned them because they're what BMW uses. My recommendation would be to get the NGK iridiums as they really helped smooth out my LT compared to the Bosch plugs. Either that or go the cheap route with the Autolites as Phil recommends. I used those in the K100RS4V that I had and they worked fine.
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86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
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supercat1
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 11 Aug 2009
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Location: Hoboken, NJ

PostPosted: Thu Aug 20, 2009 11:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Flying Duck wrote:
Just to clarify, I didn't actually "suggest" the Bosch plugs. I mentioned them because they're what BMW uses. My recommendation would be to get the NGK iridiums as they really helped smooth out my LT compared to the Bosch plugs. Either that or go the cheap route with the Autolites as Phil recommends. I used those in the K100RS4V that I had and they worked fine.


sorry, didn't mean to imply that you endorsed the purchase of that particular plug. only that that was one of the ones you suggested as acceptable. and like i said, a canvas/census of people i work with that ride wasn't positive for the autolite, but was really positive for the ngk. i just didn't want to spend the extra on the plugs then the caps.

i plan to take lots of pics. not sure if i'll post them ... but i'd like to keep a decent photo journal of the stuff i do to this bike.

after the plugs i'm gonna investigate the front forks. for some reason there is liquid on the bars. the previous owner gave me a fork seal with the bike but i'm not sure i'm up to dealing with (or even have the tools to deal with) the forks. probably something i will have to take to engle or another shop to deal with at this time.
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owrstrich
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Joined: 29 Oct 2006
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 20, 2009 11:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

before i got cruise control i used to use the choke lever as a thumb throttle...

it was kinda like a chokemeister instead of a throttlemeister...

j o
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supercat1
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 22, 2009 5:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

well, got the plugs changed. are k11rs' supposed to have plates covering the spark plug wires? cause mine doesn't ... duck you got one available?
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Flying Duck
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 22, 2009 5:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No they generally don't. No need since the RSs have a belly pan. I can't remember if the RS valve cover even has bosses for the mounting bolts.

But I gots one if'n you wants one.
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86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
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rydor
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 16 Nov 2006
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Location: Southern Illinois, U.S.A.

PostPosted: Sat Aug 22, 2009 6:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Flying Duck wrote:
I can't remember if the RS valve cover even has bosses for the mounting bolts.


There are bosses that are drilled, but not tapped.
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Flying Duck
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 22, 2009 6:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

rydor wrote:
Flying Duck wrote:
I can't remember if the RS valve cover even has bosses for the mounting bolts.


There are bosses that are drilled, but not tapped.


That makes sense. No sense manufacturing a different valve cover, no sense tapping them if no plate will be installed.
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93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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Scott_Anderson
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Joined: 05 Sep 2006
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 22, 2009 8:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

rydor wrote:
Flying Duck wrote:
I can't remember if the RS valve cover even has bosses for the mounting bolts.


There are bosses that are drilled, but not tapped.


Is that why you have one of those plates hanging in your garage?
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1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)
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