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No low fuel idiot light.

 
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sdaniel
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 15 Jun 2009
Posts: 156
Location: Little Elm, TX

PostPosted: Fri Sep 04, 2009 1:01 pm    Post subject: No low fuel idiot light. Reply with quote

Hi,

My idiot light has never worked, started t-shooting today.

The light comes on during selftest at startup.

I checked the flapper full/empty, I get 0 ohm always on the white wire under the tank. on the signal wire to the gauge, im getting a deflection. somewhere between 19ohms and 120ohms, erratic, i think the resistor for the gauge is gone. Which is ok, I'm putting a volt meter in its place anyway. (it didn't work either)

What causes the light to come on? (don't say 12vdc Smile )
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1993 K1100LT

All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing.
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Jim
Site Admin


Joined: 17 May 2003
Posts: 3841
Location: WHERETHEFUNNEVERENDS

PostPosted: Fri Sep 04, 2009 2:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What causes it come on during start up? Or what causes it to come on when you're low on fuel?
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Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repaired!
1992 K75RTP 46,000

"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed."
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sdaniel
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 15 Jun 2009
Posts: 156
Location: Little Elm, TX

PostPosted: Fri Sep 04, 2009 3:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I understand the self diagnostic during startup. My problem it doesn't come when I'm low on fuel.

thanks,
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RobWheatley
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 06 Jun 2008
Posts: 261
Location: Chatham, Kent. UK

PostPosted: Fri Sep 04, 2009 3:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi
The Fuel warning light should not be coming on at startup at all, the only time it should light is if your low on fuel, there is NO self diagnostic for it.

It works on seperate contacts in the fuel sender unit so it wont matter if the sender has failed.

I would say that a PO had re-wired the light for something other than fuel, you should have ignition (charge) oil, ABS and rear light/brake lights on self test.

You will have to trace the wiring and see what has been done.

Rob
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1996 K1100RS. dead but not forgotten.
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sdaniel
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 15 Jun 2009
Posts: 156
Location: Little Elm, TX

PostPosted: Fri Sep 04, 2009 3:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks,

I checked it again, I thought it came on at startup, it doesn't. Maybe my bulb is bad.

What signal on the white wire does anyone have on a low fuel level condition?

(don"t want to remove the fairing to get at the gauge custer unless I have to.)

thanks,
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sdaniel
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 15 Jun 2009
Posts: 156
Location: Little Elm, TX

PostPosted: Fri Sep 04, 2009 4:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks,

I checked it again, I thought it came on at startup, it doesn't. Maybe my bulb is bad.

What signal on the white wire does anyone have on a low fuel level condition?

(don"t want to remove the fairing to get at the gauge custer unless I have to.)

thanks,
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1993 K1100LT

All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing.
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RobWheatley
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 06 Jun 2008
Posts: 261
Location: Chatham, Kent. UK

PostPosted: Fri Sep 04, 2009 4:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi
I have a full tank of fuel at the moment so cant check, I do have an old sender that i will plug in tomorrow if that helps.
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1996 K1100RS. dead but not forgotten.
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sdaniel
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 15 Jun 2009
Posts: 156
Location: Little Elm, TX

PostPosted: Fri Sep 04, 2009 4:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That would be great,

Thanks,
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Phil Marvin
Rider in the Sky


Joined: 03 Apr 2003
Posts: 1389
Location: El Paso, Texas, USA

PostPosted: Fri Sep 04, 2009 6:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi, sdaniel,
You don't have to remove the fairing to remove the instrument cluster. It's a bitch, but you can remove the cluster. Remove the windshield, then remove the cover under the windshield with the motor, rails, etc. still attached. Now you will be able to get to the cluster and under it to remove the bolts which attach it. Once you have it loose, undo the small screw and unplug the cluster. Now take it where you can take it apart to get to the bulb, if that's what you think is the problem. I hope this helps.
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Phil Marvin in El Paso, TX
'94 K75A/3
'95 K75RTP
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Tim (Midland Section)
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 08 Apr 2005
Posts: 960
Location: Pinxton, Nottingham, England.

PostPosted: Fri Sep 04, 2009 6:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

IIRC there is some electronics between sender & lamp. They "poll" the sender every 5 minutes, if low the lamp lights. The reason for the timer:- if it wasn't there, the low fuel would flash under acceleration, hill climbing & bumpy roads.
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Scott_Anderson
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Joined: 05 Sep 2006
Posts: 3127
Location: Central Iowa, USA

PostPosted: Fri Sep 04, 2009 7:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If your going to pull the inst cluster I can tell you that the low fuel lamp circuit should be terminal #7 with a white wire.

If you separate the 4 wire plug at the rear of the fuel tank, take the white wire on the harness side(not the side going to the tank) and connect it to ground it should light the low fuel lamp.

The source power comes from the inst cluster internally, goes thru the lamp to the float assy which then grounds the circuit when the float is low enough, thusly turning on the lamp.
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Ride safe.



1997 K1100LT 0302488
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1995 K1100LT 0302044(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)
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sdaniel
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 15 Jun 2009
Posts: 156
Location: Little Elm, TX

PostPosted: Fri Sep 04, 2009 11:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Scott_Anderson wrote:
If your going to pull the inst cluster I can tell you that the low fuel lamp circuit should be terminal #7 with a white wire.

If you separate the 4 wire plug at the rear of the fuel tank, take the white wire on the harness side(not the side going to the tank) and connect it to ground it should light the low fuel lamp.

The source power comes from the inst cluster internally, goes thru the lamp to the float assy which then grounds the circuit when the float is low enough, thusly turning on the lamp.



Thanks, now at least I know which side the problem is on.

After grounding the wire on the connector, I now have a red lamp. Tomorrow, I'll take the sender out of the tank and see If I can effect a repair.
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Tim (Midland Section)
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 08 Apr 2005
Posts: 960
Location: Pinxton, Nottingham, England.

PostPosted: Sat Sep 05, 2009 8:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A common failure here is the wires themselves which break inside the insulation (usually but not always, the pump feed dies first).
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Grey haired riders don't get that way by pure luck
1996 Guzzi Cali3 LAPD
1972 750 Commando
G6HRN
#485
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Scott_Anderson
Site Admin


Joined: 05 Sep 2006
Posts: 3127
Location: Central Iowa, USA

PostPosted: Sat Sep 05, 2009 10:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

sdaniel wrote:
Tomorrow, I'll take the sender out of the tank and see If I can effect a repair.


Before you go there, I hate to ask this but............
are you letting the fuel get low enough in the first place??

With out actually removing the assy you should be able to just reach in there and push the float down to trigger the light.
And maybe you have already done this, just another thought before you take on the odor of gas for 2 days.
_________________
Ride safe.



1997 K1100LT 0302488
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1995 K1100LT 0302044(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)
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sdaniel
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 15 Jun 2009
Posts: 156
Location: Little Elm, TX

PostPosted: Sat Sep 05, 2009 3:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Scott_Anderson wrote:
sdaniel wrote:
Tomorrow, I'll take the sender out of the tank and see If I can effect a repair.


Before you go there, I hate to ask this but............
are you letting the fuel get low enough in the first place??

With out actually removing the assy you should be able to just reach in there and push the float down to trigger the light.
And maybe you have already done this, just another thought before you take on the odor of gas for 2 days.



Thats a good one, it made laugh, thanks, (not at U with U).

Actually if I had known wht I was looking at, I would have seen it. The previous owner didn't install the fuel filter correctly impeding the movement. I didn't realize the ball will go all the way to the bottom.

After putting it all back together and Ohming everything all good.

Now I have a functioning Idiot/low fuel light.

Thanks to everyone for their input. Now I can travel cross country with a little more piece of mind, not to mention my Wife worrying if I going to run out of Petrol. (for our across the pond friends)

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