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stiff gear change

 
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hirschhs
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 28 Dec 2006
Posts: 343
Location: Bucks, UK

PostPosted: Thu Sep 03, 2009 4:36 pm    Post subject: stiff gear change Reply with quote

Occasionally, very, very stiff into and out of 3rd gear.
Any thoughts?
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Scott_Anderson
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Joined: 05 Sep 2006
Posts: 3127
Location: Central Iowa, USA

PostPosted: Thu Sep 03, 2009 6:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How many kilometers since the last spline lube. Sounds like it may be due again.
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10102
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Thu Sep 03, 2009 8:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Usually they tend to be sticky in more than third gear when the splines start getting dry. However, on bikes I've ridden third seems to be the most noticeable. If it hasn't had a spline lube in a while then that's the first thing I'd try. Can't hurt.
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hirschhs
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 28 Dec 2006
Posts: 343
Location: Bucks, UK

PostPosted: Sat Sep 05, 2009 11:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks.. for the moment I've changed the gearbox oil and added some slick-type stuff to see if that helps.
Spline lubing: Garry Webb who looks after the bike says 'not entirely necessary on late models'.. don't shoot the messenger!
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1994 Yamaha 600 Diversion 'Hers'
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Scott_Anderson
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Joined: 05 Sep 2006
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Location: Central Iowa, USA

PostPosted: Sat Sep 05, 2009 11:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

hirschhs wrote:
says 'not entirely necessary on late models'..


My '97 needed a lube at 26K miles. My '95 had it done at 36K miles.
I think that it is inevitable for all at some point and time.
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1997 K1100LT 0302488
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
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1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
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Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Sat Sep 05, 2009 12:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
don't shoot the messenger!


There are rumors that the input splines were hardened later on but that still doesn't mean the splines don't get dry.
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93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
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RobWheatley
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 06 Jun 2008
Posts: 261
Location: Chatham, Kent. UK

PostPosted: Sat Sep 05, 2009 12:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Better to be safe than sorry, I do it on my 97 LT and did on my RS.
How is it when engaging first gear at a stand still, mine never makes a clonk or moves forwards unlike a lot of jap bikes.
Rob
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Tim (Midland Section)
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Joined: 08 Apr 2005
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Location: Pinxton, Nottingham, England.

PostPosted: Sun Sep 06, 2009 6:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

RobWheatley wrote:
Better to be safe than sorry, I do it on my 97 LT and did on my RS.
How is it when engaging first gear at a stand still, mine never makes a clonk or moves forwards unlike a lot of jap bikes.
Rob


Simple Rob, The Beemer, like a car has a dry clutch. Jap Cr*p usually has an oil bath clutch coz it's in the crankcase. The clunk is the "oil stick" breaking its hold.
HTH
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Saltcreek
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 22 Oct 2008
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Location: New Hampshire

PostPosted: Sun Sep 06, 2009 6:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tim (Midland Section) wrote:
RobWheatley wrote:
Better to be safe than sorry, I do it on my 97 LT and did on my RS.
How is it when engaging first gear at a stand still, mine never makes a clonk or moves forwards unlike a lot of jap bikes.
Rob


Simple Rob, The Beemer, like a car has a dry clutch. Jap Cr*p usually has an oil bath clutch coz it's in the crankcase. The clunk is the "oil stick" breaking its hold.
HTH


Tim, I think you have misunderstood Rob. I think he was asking Steve how his bike was going into first.
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RobWheatley
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 06 Jun 2008
Posts: 261
Location: Chatham, Kent. UK

PostPosted: Sun Sep 06, 2009 7:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep you got it, if it clunks into first then the clutch is most likely dragging, maybe from being stiff/stuck on the splines which might me the problem for third as well.
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hirschhs
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 28 Dec 2006
Posts: 343
Location: Bucks, UK

PostPosted: Tue Sep 08, 2009 3:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Beautiful, silky entrance into 1st, no clunk and no dragging.
I've put some 'slick' type additive in the gearbox and I have to say, after 150 miles, the gear change is very much smoother.
I'll see how it goes but so far no more stiffness.
Thanks for your help chaps.
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1994 Yamaha 600 Diversion 'Hers'
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supercat1
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 11 Aug 2009
Posts: 458
Location: Hoboken, NJ

PostPosted: Tue Sep 08, 2009 10:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

RobWheatley wrote:
Yep you got it, if it clunks into first then the clutch is most likely dragging, maybe from being stiff/stuck on the splines which might me the problem for third as well.


i'm gonna have to check on that just for shits and giggles. i can't recall it being an issue, but just another thing to look for. the previous owner claimed to have done all the spline lubes himself (and he has receipts for the stuff to do it and an excel spreadsheet documenting when he did all the stuff) but said there were only two. there are actually 3 correct? i get that from here(number 9 in part 3).
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Phil Marvin
Rider in the Sky


Joined: 03 Apr 2003
Posts: 1389
Location: El Paso, Texas, USA

PostPosted: Wed Sep 09, 2009 4:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi, Supercat1,
Yes, there are three spline areas - the clutch/gearbox input shaft, the gearbox output shaft/drive shaft, and the drive shaft/final drive. The ones which are the usual suspects are the clutch/gearbox input shaft and the drive shaft/final drive splines. The gearbox output shaft/drive shaft splines rarely give trouble. On the K1100, the driveshaft/final drive splines don't often give problems, either. The driveshaft U-joints and the paralever bearings DO, however, have the reputation of causing trouble.
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RobWheatley
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 06 Jun 2008
Posts: 261
Location: Chatham, Kent. UK

PostPosted: Wed Sep 09, 2009 6:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I agree with Phil about the U-joints, I have just completed work replacing the output shaft dampers and found on stripdown that both UJ's were stiff and had to replace the driveshaft.
You could say there are 4 points to lube, the three as already posted and the joint between the two drivshaft sections too.

All the points on my LT showed signs of being lubed at some point but they were dry.
Be careful when reinstalling the driveshaft in the FD & gearbox, they have snap rings to lock them on and needed a good knock with a mallet to locate them but the FD end on mine was a real PITA, I think the ring was deformed as it would not seat right home, ended up swapping the ring from the old shaft.

There is also debate over driveshaft/joint phasing but its easy to do it anyway so I did it to be sure.

It is about a days work to do a full lube BUT worth it.

Rob
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