K11 Owners Group

ljjohns

This is going to be raised on the BMWMOA site by my friend (and the K75's PO) Joel Gilbert, but because FD and Phil are always here, I'm bringing up here as well.

This 91 K75RT was purchased by Joel with heated handgrips and bar end weights. The wires have broken on the throttle side, so Joel ordered a replacement unit from Chicago BMW. We went to install it this morning, only to find that the part we received had a closed end. According to Chicago BMW this bike did not come with bar end weights.

A close examination of the grip currently on the bike does not give any indication that it had been modified to accomodate the weights.

So our question is this: (1) is Chicago BMW correct? and (2) if so, is it probable that the original owner had a set of heated grips and bar end weights from another BMW model installed? If so, what model are they likely to have come from?

Thanks.

Larry Johnson
El Paso TX
_________________
1993 K1100LT (Washington)
1995 K1100LTSE
1996 K1100LTSE (parts)
2003 K1200LTC
1991 K75RT

Phil Marvin · Posted: Sat Sep 26, 2009 12:53 pm Post subject:

Hi, Larry (and Joel),
My K75's (all 3 of them) have heated grips and none has bar end weights. My K1100LT's both had heated grips with bar end weights. Were it me, I would think maybe the K1100 heated grips are what are on Joel's '91 K75RT. I don't know (haven't checked the fiches) if the heated grips off a K100 work. I don't know if they came with bar end weights or not.

When did you place the order with Chicago BMW? I ordered some stuff on 28 August and checked with them (twice) by phone to be sure it would be delivered before I left on my trip to Hungry Lobsta in NH (9/19). On 9/16 I called and e-mailed them to NOT ship until I returned. I would have thought that ordering on 8/28, the order would be placed the next week and received the following week, in time for them to ship to me to arrive by 9/18. Hopefully, it did NOT ship and they will ship when I call them on my return from Hungry Lobsta.
_________________
Ride Safe,
Phil Marvin in El Paso, TX
'94 K75A/3
'95 K75RTP

ljjohns · Posted: Sat Sep 26, 2009 1:02 pm Post subject:

Thanks, Phil.

Joel had the same experience: we had thought that we would have had this set of parts at least two weeks ago, but they only arrived on Wednesday.

We'll explore this further.
_________________
1993 K1100LT (Washington)
1995 K1100LTSE
1996 K1100LTSE (parts)
2003 K1200LTC
1991 K75RT

Flying Duck · Posted: Sat Sep 26, 2009 1:27 pm Post subject:

K75RTs never came with bar ends.

If he can return the heated grip he bought then I'd recommend going with Symtec heated grips. (About $40 from California Sport touring.) I've done these on several Ks and since the wiring runs outside of the handlebar then you can retain the bar ends.

Here's a write-up I did on how to do it:
http://smithduck.home.comcast.net/~smithduck/bmw/tech/heatedgrips/symtecgrips.htm
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

ljjohns · Posted: Sat Sep 26, 2009 1:35 pm Post subject:

FD:

Thanks for the quick response. Will pursue it.

Larry Johnson
_________________
1993 K1100LT (Washington)
1995 K1100LTSE
1996 K1100LTSE (parts)
2003 K1200LTC
1991 K75RT

Ted · Posted: Sat Sep 26, 2009 3:59 pm Post subject:

Could be someone used a K100 heated grip kit, it came with bar end weights and inserts for the bar ends to hold them.

http://www.maxbmw.com/fiche/FicheZoom.asp?image=Diagrams/B0000629.png

I put the K100 standard kit on my K75S, though the bar ends were not needed they all but completely eliminated any vibes through the bars.
_________________

Ted

KOG#1

ljjohns · Posted: Sat Sep 26, 2009 4:15 pm Post subject:

Ted:

Thanks--that looks exactly what we're trying to repair.

Larry Johnson
_________________
1993 K1100LT (Washington)
1995 K1100LTSE
1996 K1100LTSE (parts)
2003 K1200LTC
1991 K75RT

ljjohns · Posted: Sat Sep 26, 2009 5:11 pm Post subject:

Like everyone else, Joel and I are overworked and unpaid. So my next question is this: we're trying to deal with one hand grip (throttle side) where there's a break in the wires for the heating element--about an inch below the entry point to the heating element.

Ted gave me the information I need to replace the grip: now my question is about a possible repair that could be done to the leads that would avoid the cost of a new K100 grip.

I checked in ibmwr but only found two entries on heated grips, both dealing with installation.

Has anyone seen a source for information on repairing broken connections?

Again, my thanks.
_________________
1993 K1100LT (Washington)
1995 K1100LTSE
1996 K1100LTSE (parts)
2003 K1200LTC
1991 K75RT

Ted · Posted: Sat Sep 26, 2009 7:22 pm Post subject:

As I remember the wires are pretty fine - that said, if the wire is compromised in its run from the grip and not AT the grip I would think you should be able to cut the thing, strip the four ends, side-by-side solder and add a little heat shrink over it.

Ted
_________________

Ted

KOG#1

ljjohns · Posted: Sat Sep 26, 2009 8:24 pm Post subject:

Again, my thanks, Ted. As an English professor, I am not confident in my understanding of circuits, and I was concerned that leads to a heating element would not simply accept a soldering.

Larry Johnson
_________________
1993 K1100LT (Washington)
1995 K1100LTSE
1996 K1100LTSE (parts)
2003 K1200LTC
1991 K75RT

Flying Duck · Posted: Sat Sep 26, 2009 8:27 pm Post subject:

If it's a broken wire and you're soldering wire-to wire then you're OK. IF it's where the wire connects to the heating element then solder won't work. It might for a little while but won't be reliable.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

RobWheatley · Posted: Sat Sep 26, 2009 8:30 pm Post subject:

The element wont get hot enough to melt the solder, if it did the hand grip would be toasted within minutes.
Besides you have nothing to loose by trying it, worst that will happen is it wont work.

Rob
_________________
1999 K1100LTIC Smooth and Quiet Smile

Cruise, BFD & HID
1996 K1100RS. dead but not forgotten.

Flying Duck · Posted: Sat Sep 26, 2009 8:44 pm Post subject:

It's a chemical/metallurgical issue, not a thermodynamic issue. The heating elements can easily be heated to a temparature that will melt solder. But the solder won't bond to the heating element like it does to copper.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

ljjohns · Posted: Sat Sep 26, 2009 8:45 pm Post subject:

Thanks, FD and Rob.

It sounds like it's worth a try. I'm too old to do good soldering--too little experience, too much trembling. But the PO is younger and together we might manage it. And it will be worth the attempt.

Again, thanks.

Larry Johnson
_________________
1993 K1100LT (Washington)
1995 K1100LTSE
1996 K1100LTSE (parts)
2003 K1200LTC
1991 K75RT

Flying Duck · Posted: Sat Sep 26, 2009 8:50 pm Post subject:

Get some soldering flux. Even if the solder claims to be fluxed you're much better off using addtional flux. That how I do all of my wiring and it works MUCH better that way.

Another thing to try is a window defroster repair kit from the auto parts store. It should have a better chance of bonding to the heating element.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

ljjohns · Posted: Sat Sep 26, 2009 8:55 pm Post subject:

FD: I see the logic in the window defroster idea--and never would have imagined it without folks like you. My limited soldering experience has been limited to deciding whether to use acid-core or rosin-core; I've never worked with extrinsic fluxes. But I can always practice--as you age, more time opens up.

Thanks.

ljj
_________________
1993 K1100LT (Washington)
1995 K1100LTSE
1996 K1100LTSE (parts)
2003 K1200LTC
1991 K75RT

Jim · Posted: Sat Sep 26, 2009 11:07 pm Post subject:

I'm pretty sure you want rosin core for wires. Definitely use flux.
_________________
Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repaired!
1992 K75RTP 46,000

"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed."

poetryandmotorbikes · Mad Brick Rider Joined: 17 Sep 2009 Posts: 80

I posted this on the K-Bike forum for someone who had a similiar issue.