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LT Front Fender attachment

 
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Estimated Prophet



Joined: 29 Oct 2008
Posts: 13
Location: Northern California

PostPosted: Sun Oct 11, 2009 10:30 am    Post subject: LT Front Fender attachment Reply with quote

Anybody have a neat trick to more securely attach the rear portion of my LT's front fender?

The two fittings on the side of the rear portion don't seem to clamp tightly enough to keep the fender from swinging back and sliding out of the slotted connection, leaving only the top center connection holding my fender on. I was thinking of just using a star washer, but that seems a little crude (albeit simple). Just thought I would ask if anyone else has found a better way.

I got back from a 400 mile ride yesterday evening which included some 85+mph highway running and when I stopped for gas, the fender had again pulled out after reattaching the fender at the previous stop (30 miles on rough dirt had allowed one side to pull out. I tighened things enough to where I was worried about crushing the plastic tabs on the fender). I've recently added a fender extender (nice addition) and I never had this issue before ... maybe the extra windage (???) pulls harder on the fender, swinging it back. I have the little dual lock things to hold the fender sides from flapping but even those don't seem to help hold the fender in position.
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94 K1100LT
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Saltcreek
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 22 Oct 2008
Posts: 957
Location: New Hampshire

PostPosted: Sun Oct 11, 2009 10:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My previous owner had rigged something with velcro that didn't really work. When I had the front apart for fork seals I added larger washers to catch more of the fender. I used stainless and had to grind off one edge of the washers to get them to fit. This has worked so far for me.
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Jim

1994 K1100LT Mystic Red, bfd, 37000 miles, sold Sad
2009 Wilderness Systems Zephyr 155 ST
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Mystic Red
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 28 Mar 2005
Posts: 2330
Location: Twin Lakes Idaho

PostPosted: Sun Oct 11, 2009 10:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Same here. Epoxied washers inside fender and no problems since.
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Jim
Site Admin


Joined: 17 May 2003
Posts: 3841
Location: WHERETHEFUNNEVERENDS

PostPosted: Sun Oct 11, 2009 11:54 am    Post subject: front fender Reply with quote

EP - one of the techs at the dealer overtightened the bolts and crushed the plastic - the rear section of the fender wouldn't stay in place after that.

I use two outside star washers on each side - it has not come loose since I added them.
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1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repaired!
1992 K75RTP 46,000

"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed."
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2xcelr8
Big Brick Rider


Joined: 29 Sep 2009
Posts: 71
Location: SE Wisconsin

PostPosted: Sun Oct 11, 2009 2:27 pm    Post subject: Velco Reply with quote

Mine has the heavy duty velcro on the bracket over the brake caliper. I have never had an issue.
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'96 K1100RS, '94 K1100LT, '84 Honda VF700F Interceptor (4 sale)
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RAL88
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 28 Apr 2004
Posts: 736
Location: New Mexico Land of Enchantment and 365 days of riding USA

PostPosted: Sun Oct 11, 2009 3:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used the star washers and it still came loose. Then I used 3M duolok velcro on the calipers bracket and fender(mine only came with the velcro on caliper bracket not the fender) and no problem since.
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Rich

"If it ain't broke, take it apart and make it work better"
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Wrigsby1
Big Brick Rider


Joined: 25 Feb 2006
Posts: 72
Location: Shetland

PostPosted: Mon Oct 12, 2009 8:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The industrial velcro is factory (stop laughing!). It gets worn and then stops velcroing.

I have larger washers on the present bike and on the last where the bolts had seized in the fork legs, I used cable ties through a small hole drilled in the bottom of each corner, It worked a treat. Both had mud flaps.

Ta
G
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Tim (Midland Section)
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 08 Apr 2005
Posts: 960
Location: Pinxton, Nottingham, England.

PostPosted: Mon Oct 12, 2009 5:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I took a bit of 5/8 x 3/8 chain (remember chains) & removed 2 side plates, the ones with 6mm holes, these were bent in the middle at 45 degrees. They were then fitted as if they were washers with the bent bit hooking round the rear of the plastic mudguard (fender) boss. A bit fiddly to fit but reliable. Don't overtighten as it crushes the plastic. Been on 3 K11's in 5 years never broken loose. PO had drilled the lower bits for cable ties so I used them as well. Pity I can't see in there, never mind taking a picture, hope you can visualise my method.
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RobWheatley
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Joined: 06 Jun 2008
Posts: 261
Location: Chatham, Kent. UK

PostPosted: Tue Oct 13, 2009 8:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mine has holes drilled through the plastic and the bracket and its bolted through there, very stable (the top bolts into the forks are missing due to the sliders being damaged by a PO)
Rob
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beemeerr11
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 05 Mar 2006
Posts: 168

PostPosted: Wed Oct 14, 2009 10:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

RobWheatley wrote:
Mine has holes drilled through the plastic and the bracket and its bolted through there, very stable (the top bolts into the forks are missing due to the sliders being damaged by a PO)
Rob

I drilled small holes above the rear bolts and use a piece of cable tie from the hole around the fork. you need to replace the cabletie when you need to remove the front wheel, but that isn't all tha often, this has worked for me for the last 50,000 Kms.

Cheers

Lou 95LT
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