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voodooskin Brick Rider

Joined: 08 Nov 2009 Posts: 28 Location: Pacific NW
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Posted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 10:15 pm Post subject: K1100LT forky leaky? |
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DOH!
I just had the good folks at my local BMW shop zap me for the 20K maintenance at the cost of four figures but hey, figured, bike'll be good to go for a long time. Put a few hundred miles on the bike since then.
nyet.
Went out this AM and 3-4 tablespoons of very light oil leaked from either the brake caliper or the fork on the ground. Fork seals are very probably original. I assume it's fork oil, the brake reservoir is full and the lost oil doesn't smell like brake fluid.
1) should the shop have said "Dude, replace your fork seals, they're original" when I brought the bike in? They did repl. the fork oil as part of the maintenance. Just burns me this happened so soon after all that work. Or is this just the luck of the draw and I'm just SOL and need to either do this myself or assist the local ecomony some more?
2) unrelated: I've never ridden a BMW until I got this bike. Shifting this thing is less smooth than jap bikes I've ridden by a long shot. That's fine as long as I'm not beating the transmission/clutch to death. I keep reading about "splines" but I saw a post about what's involved in lubing them and it looked like almost a complete disassembly! I think I need to go to a BMW rally somewhere and get someone to tell me "Yeah, they're all like that" or "Dude, lube the splines or start saving money"
Cheers, y'all! And thanks for any clues imparted... |
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Mystic Red Flying Brick Rider

Joined: 28 Mar 2005 Posts: 2330 Location: Twin Lakes Idaho
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Posted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 10:45 pm Post subject: |
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First post so we need more info. How many miles on your ride. RS or LT? What year? Slap that in your signature and it will always be there.
| Quote: | | Or is this just the luck of the draw and I'm just SOL and need to either do this myself or assist the local ecomony some more? |
Yep, depending on mileage but they are not that hard to do. Do a search (button at the top of the page) and you'll find lots of info there. What's not there the good folks here will pitch in with info. About a 3 beer job.
| Quote: | | Shifting this thing is less smooth than jap bikes I've ridden by a long shot |
Dry clutch and that's the way they are. Synthetic in the tranny will help.
| Quote: | | "Dude, lube the splines or start saving money" |
40K is the "recommended" mileage for splines. Some don't even need it then. If your bike is down shifting hard, that's a sign it needs to be done.
These bike are pretty straight forward to work on especially with the help this forum coughs up.
And welcome to the madhouse!  _________________ Scott Hespelt, '94 K11LT
K11 OG #466 |
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Mystic Red Flying Brick Rider

Joined: 28 Mar 2005 Posts: 2330 Location: Twin Lakes Idaho
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Posted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 11:21 pm Post subject: |
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This is what you'll be dealing with:
Probably want to do the bushings too.
If you don't have a Clymers book they are pretty helpful and walk you right thru almost anything. I think it's easiest to leave the forks in the triple clamp and drop the sliders down and off. _________________ Scott Hespelt, '94 K11LT
K11 OG #466 |
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voodooskin Brick Rider

Joined: 08 Nov 2009 Posts: 28 Location: Pacific NW
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Posted: Tue Nov 10, 2009 12:30 am Post subject: |
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[quote="Mystic Red"]First post so we need more info. How many miles on your ride. RS or LT? What year? Slap that in your signature and it will always be there.
Done, but just in case because technology, she hates me:
'97 K1100LT with about 12,000 miles is all, I've had the bike 6 weeks and have put on about 1,500 of those miles
[quote] About a 3 beer job.
Is that the price if I bribe someone else on this list to do it for me? We have _good_ beer made locally in Eugene...real good... _________________ 1997 K1100LT
49,000 miles |
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owrstrich Flying Brick Rider

Joined: 29 Oct 2006 Posts: 2566 Location: CheezConsin
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Posted: Tue Nov 10, 2009 12:37 am Post subject: |
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Last edited by owrstrich on Thu Mar 11, 2010 1:43 am; edited 1 time in total |
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Jim Site Admin

Joined: 17 May 2003 Posts: 3841 Location: WHERETHEFUNNEVERENDS
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Posted: Tue Nov 10, 2009 2:02 am Post subject: |
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Skin - make sure you get some fork boots to put on there while you have the forks apart. You can get the el cheapo Rancho boots or /6 boots. _________________ Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repaired!
1992 K75RTP 46,000
"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed." |
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Phil Marvin Rider in the Sky
Joined: 03 Apr 2003 Posts: 1389 Location: El Paso, Texas, USA
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Posted: Tue Nov 10, 2009 4:15 am Post subject: |
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Hi, Voodooskin,
I'm sorry your fork seals started to leak, but I doubt seriously the shop had anything to do with it. You probably have a ding in the fork or the seal had passed through dried bug guts enough times and finally said, "Enough," and started leaking. If you do the seal replacement, when the slider is off, very carefully feel all along both fork tubes where the seal slides and make sure all is smooth with no burrs or hard bug gut deposits. If you feel anything, remove the deposits or use a very fine stone to remove and smooth over the burr. Rancho boots (Rancho part number 1952) look fine and work fine and are less than half the cost of the /6 gaiters. _________________ Ride Safe,
Phil Marvin in El Paso, TX
'94 K75A/3
'95 K75RTP |
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Saltcreek Flying Brick Rider

Joined: 22 Oct 2008 Posts: 957 Location: New Hampshire
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Posted: Tue Nov 10, 2009 8:11 am Post subject: |
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Welcome Voodoo!
You know if they had recommended you replace fork seals that weren't leaking, we'd all be giving them a hard time for padding your bill. I'd be curious what the shop bill is for fork seals. For me, it was a good first project getting familiar with the bike and building confidence working on it. _________________ Jim
1994 K1100LT Mystic Red, bfd, 37000 miles, sold
2009 Wilderness Systems Zephyr 155 ST
2002 Litespeed titanium |
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Scott_Anderson Site Admin
Joined: 05 Sep 2006 Posts: 3122 Location: Central Iowa, USA
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Posted: Tue Nov 10, 2009 8:26 am Post subject: |
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Welcome Voooodoooo,
Do yourself a favor if you decide to takle this job yoursef. Don't use aftermarket seals, (part #1 & #3). Stick with what the dealer sells.
I tried some of those that are sold on e-bay, they didn't last, even with boots on, not to mention that they didn't fit well either.
There are quite a number of dealers that will sell on-line, Max's, Bob's, Chicago, more....
If your dealer had just changed the oil, ask them what they put in. (or check your shop ticket) Stock wt is 7.5 The previous owner may have been using somthing heavier, hence no leaky.
Sometimes puting a little heavier wt oil will stop the leak. Not always, but sometimes.
The Bmw branded 7.5wt fork oil is purple(ish) in color.
The last bottle of 10wt performace fork oil that I bought from the local Honda dealer was green. Some have been red.
Good luck, we'll be here. _________________ Ride safe.
1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold) |
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Mystic Red Flying Brick Rider

Joined: 28 Mar 2005 Posts: 2330 Location: Twin Lakes Idaho
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Posted: Tue Nov 10, 2009 9:23 am Post subject: |
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| Quote: |
'97 K1100LT with about 12,000 miles is all, I've had the bike 6 weeks and have put on about 1,500 of those miles |
Wow. nice find. Can't believe a seal is out. But I guess anything can happen.
If you've got a garage to work out of the weather It's just a matter of taking some bolts apart and putting them back together.
| Quote: |
Is that the price if I bribe someone else on this list to do it for me? Wink We have _good_ beer made locally in Eugene...real good... |
I'm a teamster I don't work THAT cheap but there's this member outa the Seattle area..... Seriously,
Go here and download the shop manual in pdf. Not as good as Clymers because they expect you to be a BMW Tech but a great cross reference. Get a Clymers, you'll need it to afford that bike. I think they sell on EBay. _________________ Scott Hespelt, '94 K11LT
K11 OG #466 |
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supercat1 Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 11 Aug 2009 Posts: 458 Location: Hoboken, NJ
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Posted: Tue Nov 10, 2009 12:10 pm Post subject: |
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well, my seals leak too ... but i'm gonna have a shop do the work for me as i don't have space or tools myself.
could a failing clutch cable also lead to rough downshifting due to frayed/broken wires no longer providing pull? _________________ (formerly) 1993 k1100rs |
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Flying Duck PsyKotic Waterfowl

Joined: 27 Jan 2005 Posts: 10102 Location: Bumf***, WA
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Posted: Tue Nov 10, 2009 12:18 pm Post subject: |
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You indicate that it's coming out near the brake caliper, right? If the sliders (the shiny part at the top of the fork) aren't wet then there's a fair chance that the shop IS responsible if they changed the fork oil. The threads on the fork drain plugs are easy to strip so I'd guess that if they're leaking down there then the shop may have overtightened the drain plugs when replacing them.
If the fork seals are leaking then the oil leaks out of the top and gets the sliders wet. _________________ 93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE |
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Flying Duck PsyKotic Waterfowl

Joined: 27 Jan 2005 Posts: 10102 Location: Bumf***, WA
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Posted: Tue Nov 10, 2009 12:29 pm Post subject: |
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On the shifting thing: K bike trannies are known for being a bit "notchy."
Running Mobil 75-140 gear oil in the tranny can help smooth it out a little.
And part of it is also just becoming used to the bike and getting to know it.
A few tricks that might help:
1) Make sure the clutch cable is properly adjusted. Here's a link to a page I did on K bike clutches which you might find useful:
http://smithduck.home.comcast.net/~smithduck/bmw/tech/clutch/clutch.htm
2) The key to making a K bike shift well is to pull the (properly adjusted) clutch all of the way in, and assertively commit to changing the gear with your foot. Don't force it though.
3) Practice, practice, practice....
Although I've never found it needed on any of the Ks I've owned, many people report finding it useful to "preload" the shift lever with your foot just prior to shifting. You might also try that to see if it helps. _________________ 93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE |
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Phil Marvin Rider in the Sky
Joined: 03 Apr 2003 Posts: 1389 Location: El Paso, Texas, USA
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Posted: Tue Nov 10, 2009 2:30 pm Post subject: |
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| Flying Duck wrote: | You indicate that it's coming out near the brake caliper, right? If the sliders (the shiny part at the top of the fork) aren't wet then there's a fair chance that the shop IS responsible if they changed the fork oil. The threads on the fork drain plugs are easy to strip so I'd guess that if they're leaking down there then the shop may have overtightened the drain plugs when replacing them.
If the fork seals are leaking then the oil leaks out of the top and gets the sliders wet. |
Good call, Drake! After I reread the original post, you may very well be right. I assumed the oil was running down from the top of the slider, but the post didn't say that. It only said there was "oil" on the ground, maybe 3 or 4 tablespoons. 3 or 4 tablespoons aren't going to accumulate from a seal leaking.
Voodooskin, on the back side of the fork sliders, a couple of inches up from the axle, are the fork drain plugs. It this where the leak is coming from? _________________ Ride Safe,
Phil Marvin in El Paso, TX
'94 K75A/3
'95 K75RTP |
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voodooskin Brick Rider

Joined: 08 Nov 2009 Posts: 28 Location: Pacific NW
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Posted: Tue Nov 10, 2009 10:39 pm Post subject: |
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I think I need to do more sleuthing. For the life of me, I can't tell where the oil came from, but it was definitely on the ground. I might have to remove the fender and look some more. I know these don't show the various bits on the fork itself but nothing on the moto other than the rim and tire, as far as I can tell, has any oil on it.
http://www.debmail.net/images/forky.JPG
http://www.debmail.net/images/leaky.JPG
Thanks y'all. I'd like to start doing my own work on this bike. However, I used to have an old Honda 550-four and once I tried to "adjust" the valves and afterward had to coast it down hill to the shop I'm that good a mechanic... _________________ 1997 K1100LT
49,000 miles |
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Mystic Red Flying Brick Rider

Joined: 28 Mar 2005 Posts: 2330 Location: Twin Lakes Idaho
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Posted: Tue Nov 10, 2009 11:09 pm Post subject: |
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That doesn't look like a fork seal leak to me!
And you've already got boots.
Did they bleed the brakes? _________________ Scott Hespelt, '94 K11LT
K11 OG #466 |
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Jim Site Admin

Joined: 17 May 2003 Posts: 3841 Location: WHERETHEFUNNEVERENDS
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Posted: Wed Nov 11, 2009 12:08 am Post subject: |
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Skin - I think I'd check with the shop real quick - find out what color fork oil they put in the forks - and see if that matches what's on your floor.
It does look more like brake fluid - but I think you'd notice that. I look at the front master sight glass before I get on the bike. _________________ Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repaired!
1992 K75RTP 46,000
"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed." |
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Scott_Anderson Site Admin
Joined: 05 Sep 2006 Posts: 3122 Location: Central Iowa, USA
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Posted: Wed Nov 11, 2009 1:04 am Post subject: |
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Skin, how does the fluid feel to your skin(fingers). Slippery like a lubricant or, "dry" tacky like brake fluid.
Brake fluid should also have a distinctive odor to it that the fork oil won't.
I'm thinking like Jim, looks like brake fluid to me. Hard to tell until you remove the rear fender and expose the brake calipers.
By the way Mystic, when I got my '97LT in '05 with only 7k miles, trailered it home from Florida, the fork seals were the leaking before I got it out of the trailer. _________________ Ride safe.
1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold) |
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Mystic Red Flying Brick Rider

Joined: 28 Mar 2005 Posts: 2330 Location: Twin Lakes Idaho
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Posted: Wed Nov 11, 2009 8:43 pm Post subject: |
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| Quote: | | By the way Mystic, when I got my '97LT in '05 with only 7k miles, trailered it home from Florida, the fork seals were the leaking before I got it out of the trailer. |
Probably would have been fine if you rode it.  _________________ Scott Hespelt, '94 K11LT
K11 OG #466 |
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voodooskin Brick Rider

Joined: 08 Nov 2009 Posts: 28 Location: Pacific NW
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Posted: Wed Nov 11, 2009 10:55 pm Post subject: |
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| Scott_Anderson wrote: | Skin, how does the fluid feel to your skin(fingers). Slippery like a lubricant or, "dry" tacky like brake fluid.
Brake fluid should also have a distinctive odor to it that the fork oil won't.
I'm thinking like Jim, looks like brake fluid to me. Hard to tell until you remove the rear fender and expose the brake calipers. |
It was slippery and didn't really have an odor. And clear on the white towel I wiped it up with, I think the reddish color in the concrete is just stuff in the concrete. It just didn't seem like brake fluid, more like a real light clear oil. I don't discount the brakes, it's got to be one or the other unless some dog came into my carport and peed oil on my ride...
I'll take it in when I can and see if the shop has a clue. Thanks for all the great info, I still might be swapping my fork seals after all! _________________ 1997 K1100LT
49,000 miles |
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