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Valve buckets

 
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Scott_Anderson
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Joined: 05 Sep 2006
Posts: 3127
Location: Central Iowa, USA

PostPosted: Fri Jan 01, 2010 1:01 pm    Post subject: Valve buckets Reply with quote

Ok, yesterday I checked the valves on the '95 as part of my winter project.
I had 1 intake valve at .005in and 1 intake valve at <.002in and 1 exhaust valve at .016in.

I measured the bucket for the .002in valve and it measured .114
I then measure the bucket for the .016in valve and it measured .110

So I exchanged those two buckets. Now I have 2 intakes at .005in(both the same cyl) and the exhaust is .012in(diff cyl) now.

I think I will be good for the upcoming riding season.

At what point should I consider new buckets. Question

And don't ask why I didn't measure the bucket on the 1st .005in valve when I had the cam out. Rolling Eyes
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1997 K1100LT 0302488
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SugarHillCTD
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Joined: 10 Oct 2007
Posts: 4238
Location: Now in Eastern Pennsylvania

PostPosted: Fri Jan 01, 2010 3:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Scott,

I won't ask about the first valve bucket if you tell me how good or bad/ hard or easy it was to get the cams out (I have to do the same job in the next few weeks) Very Happy Thanks!

John
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10102
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Fri Jan 01, 2010 4:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's very easy. And the buckets just fall right out.

FWIW, I've heard that you're best off buying new buckets since they get "paired" with their valve as they wear.

Why you don't need a special tool to depress the cam chain tensioner:
http://smithduck.home.comcast.net/~smithduck/bmw/tech/valves/camchaintensioner.htm
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SugarHillCTD
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Location: Now in Eastern Pennsylvania

PostPosted: Fri Jan 01, 2010 4:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Drake.

FD and/or Scott (or anyone else),

Anything to know otherwise about cam removal or re-install?
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Ernie-NH
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Joined: 14 Oct 2009
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Location: Bristol, New Hampshire

PostPosted: Fri Jan 01, 2010 4:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very Happy

Hey John...

Let me know when you want t do this and I'll come up and help you... need to do it myself and sometimes 2 work better than one !

Best regards........// Ernie-NH
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Flying Duck
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Joined: 27 Jan 2005
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 01, 2010 4:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

More here:
http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech/valve-adjust-16v.shtml

DO NOT overtighten the bolts that hold the valve cover on. They are "shoulder bolts" that only go in so far and if you your overtorque them you'll strip the threads in the head.
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93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
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Buy parts HERE
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Phil Marvin
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Joined: 03 Apr 2003
Posts: 1389
Location: El Paso, Texas, USA

PostPosted: Fri Jan 01, 2010 4:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi, John,
BMW says you are not to move the bucket if it has been in the engine more than 1000km. Supposedly it "wears into" the bore in which it rides. I have heard that in the real world, it isn't necessary and the buckets can be swapped around. There is a BMW special tool for holding the cam chain while the cams are removed. Be sure you have a tube of Permatex Ultra-Gray, Hondabond, Yamabond, etc. and a new valve cover gasket. You need to clean off all the old sealer from the head, valve cover, and your old gasket. You'll probably be able to reuse your old gasket, but NOT having a new one available almost guarantees you will need a new one! Don't lose the spring between the valve cover and the head. Look for it as you remove the valve cover, so it doesn't fall off and get lost. When you reinstall the valve cover, you want the bolts snug. DO NOT overtighten them. If you strip the threads in the cam carriers and cannot helicoil them, it is new head time, as the head is line bored with the cam carriers and the carriers are not available except as part of the head.
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Flying Duck
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Joined: 27 Jan 2005
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Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Fri Jan 01, 2010 5:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You don't need to replace the whole head if you strip one. They actually bolt into the "tops" of the cam guides. However, it's not sold as an individual part so you'd need to find an old head to salvage one from.
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93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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Phil Marvin
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Joined: 03 Apr 2003
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Location: El Paso, Texas, USA

PostPosted: Fri Jan 01, 2010 5:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ernie-NH wrote:
Very Happy

Hey John...

Let me know when you want t do this and I'll come up and help you... need to do it myself and sometimes 2 work better than one !

Best regards........// Ernie-NH


Hi, John,
Do I infer there may be a K1100 tech day in Sugar Hill sometime in the not-too-distant future?
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Scott_Anderson
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Joined: 05 Sep 2006
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Location: Central Iowa, USA

PostPosted: Fri Jan 01, 2010 6:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Flying Duck wrote:
It's very easy. And the buckets just fall right out.

FWIW, I've heard that you're best off buying new buckets since they get "paired" with their valve as they wear.

Why you don't need a special tool to depress the cam chain tensioner:
http://smithduck.home.comcast.net/~smithduck/bmw/tech/valves/camchaintensioner.htm


John and Ernie,
like Duck says it's easy. I was intimidated to try it last year other that just measuring the clearance.
I made up my mind this year that it can't be all bad with Ducks link to the homemade tension holder, I just used a big screwdriver and a bungie cord to hold tension. And like in Ducks pic used zip ties to tie the cam chain to the sprockets.

I missed that part about a wrench on the cam casting for loosening and tightening the sprocket bolts. I have a set of 1/2" drive straight bits that fit just fine on the opposite end of the cam for holding it still.

Be cautious when you pull the lower(exhaust) cam as the buckets will literally want to fall out. I used a bungee and a wood dowl rod(ok and old broken wood broom handle) across the space to keep the buckets in that I didn't want out.

I had a dickens of a time getting the .005 feeler guage in on those 2 valves, I'll check them again next winter and most likely measure all of the buckets(for my records) if I have to take the cams out again.

I was able to get the cover off without damaging the gasket and used some rtv blue at the half moons and the cam cover joints when going back together.

Today I striped more of the backend out getting ready to pull the swing arm and tranny out. Now I'm waiting on a 1-1/16" crowfoot wrench an a 12mm allen socket driver to be able to disassemble the swingarm and fd.

I want to check the drive shaft joints and replace the rubber boots. I'm also replacing all of the rubber hoses and intake boots this year as well.
Looking to check the engine output shaft seal and replace the clutch basket nut o-ring. I started to get a oil leak at the rear of the engine, higher than the pan joint, as well as know that a spline lube has been done.
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Ride safe.



1997 K1100LT 0302488
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1995 K1100LT 0302044(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)
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Scott_Anderson
Site Admin


Joined: 05 Sep 2006
Posts: 3127
Location: Central Iowa, USA

PostPosted: Fri Jan 01, 2010 6:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Phil Marvin wrote:
Ernie-NH wrote:
Very Happy

Hey John...

Let me know when you want t do this and I'll come up and help you... need to do it myself and sometimes 2 work better than one !

Best regards........// Ernie-NH


Hi, John,
Do I infer there may be a K1100 tech day in Sugar Hill sometime in the not-too-distant future?


I'm kind of in the middle of it now if'n y'all venture here to the chilling single digits temps of Iowa.
_________________
Ride safe.



1997 K1100LT 0302488
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1995 K1100LT 0302044(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Yahoo Messenger
Phil Marvin
Rider in the Sky


Joined: 03 Apr 2003
Posts: 1389
Location: El Paso, Texas, USA

PostPosted: Fri Jan 01, 2010 7:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi, Scott,
You live in Iowa. It would be nice to visit you and (maybe) help (a little) with the wrenching. But Iowa doesn't have lobster!
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Phil Marvin in El Paso, TX
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SugarHillCTD
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Joined: 10 Oct 2007
Posts: 4238
Location: Now in Eastern Pennsylvania

PostPosted: Sat Jan 02, 2010 9:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks all for the pieces of info and the "in situ" hints- NOTHING like doing it and seeing what it takes. Before the clutch/O ring job last year, I thought I was nuts for doing it myself. Then I saw how relatively uncomplicated it is to do- and if necessary wouldn't hesitate to do my own again or help someone else.

The valve cover is the least of my worries- I had it off last year when I had to fix both leaky timing chain and valve covers. Guess I got it right upon reassembly because neither one leaked at all last season.

Scott, other than pulling the trans back (did that one last year too) it sounds like your R&R list is very similar to mine:

new rubber hoses- breather, intake boots (one is leaking now), brake lines (several small cracks in the 16+ y.o. outer rubber)

pull the swingarm and look at those joints plus install new swingarm bushings and boots (some small cracking there also)

valves- check clearances and ?

also cruise control install and a fuel line cooler

I'm probably forgetting stuff- I do have a list down in the "K" cave. The bike is about 200mi short of 50,000 and IF I keep it I want to stay up with preventative maintenance.

Scott- what different tools did you need to do the swingarm work? If you get the chance please keep posting about your repairs- let us know how it goes and what you find.

THANKS!
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'92 K100RS4V Pearl White SOLD
'04 K1200GT
IBA Several-SS1k, BBG, 50CC NYC to S.F.
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Scott_Anderson
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Joined: 05 Sep 2006
Posts: 3127
Location: Central Iowa, USA

PostPosted: Sun Jan 03, 2010 12:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

SugarHillCTD wrote:
Scott- what different tools did you need to do the swingarm work? If you get the chance please keep posting about your repairs- let us know how it goes and what you find.

THANKS!


Well John, the only tools that I have purchased that I didn't already have was a 12mm allen socket for the inside bolt at the final drive and a 1-1/16" crow foot wrench so I can torque the locking nuts on re-assy.
I already had a heat gun for softening the locktite.

If I need anything else(tool wise) or fab something I'll post over in the project thread.

BTW with the cam sprockets off of the cams and when you remove all of the cam caps, the cams will come right out. Be carefull when you remove the lower cam as the buckets will want to literally fall out as they are at an upward angle.
_________________
Ride safe.



1997 K1100LT 0302488
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1995 K1100LT 0302044(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)
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SugarHillCTD
Site Admin


Joined: 10 Oct 2007
Posts: 4238
Location: Now in Eastern Pennsylvania

PostPosted: Sun Jan 03, 2010 9:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Scott,

Thanks for both tech threads! I'd actually try to start the work today but I think that I might have to take a LONG, SLOW ride on a different type of machine Crying or Very sad (we got a boatload of snow last night)

John
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IBA Several-SS1k, BBG, 50CC NYC to S.F.
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