K11 Owners Group

[larryb22]

I read something a while back about a sticking front brake lever. My lever sticks a bit and keeps the brake light on until you push the lever forward. The brakes are not on, but the light is. The switch is working fine.
I pulled the cover and see what appears to be a pivot bolt on the under side. I assume this is the pivot pin.
So what is going to happen when I loosen and pull this pin to clean and lube it?
Any stuff going to launch and go flying into oblivion?
Larry
_________________
2008 Yamaha XV250
S/W Michigan USA

[rkildu]

Larry,

What you have there is some brake fluid seeping past the piston seal and combining with dust and dirt to create a ring of spooge that prevents the piston from returning all of the way. It can be cleaned, carefully, with the master cylinder still on the handle bar.

Nothing will explode. After you take the plastic covers off, you will have to heat up the pivot pin. It is in there with locktite. The threads are in the brake handle itself, not in the master cylinder assembly. So heat up the lever, I found out the hard way! Best done with a heat gun. I don't think an open flame would be a good thing it there. You will melt the switch and the wiring, and I don't know about the brake fluid. Don't over heat it, there is a plastic/nylon/something bearing/sleve in there also.

Do a search on master cylinder overhaul on this site and the IBMWR K-Tech section. There are better explanations than I can provide.

Hope this helps
_________________
Rod Kilduff
97 K1100LT HighLine
82 R100Lufty

[Flying Duck]

Actually it may just be a sticky lever. My K1100RS had a sticky lever when I bought it. Removing and relubing the pivot pin fixed it.

You can just unscrew the pivot pin. There's only blue LocTite on it so heating isn't required.

Once you get it out past it's threads though it's a bit hard to pull out and not enough of the head is exposed to get a good grip on it. But if you put some rotational pressure on the Allen wrench to it doesn't slip out then you can it pull/wiggle it out.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

[larryb22]

OK, being assured nothing will fly away, I went to work on the lever. Removed the cover, loosened the allen head bolt. Was a bit hard to turn all the way. When I felt the threads were clear, there was about a good quarter inch of the head sticking out. Couldn't get it farther with the allen wrench applying sideways pressure. So I took a small pair of vice grips and snapped onto the bolt head. Then put a screwdriver between the vice grip and the mount. Applied just a little pressure to the screw driver while turning the bolt back and forth with the vice grips. Came out just fine. Nothing vacated the area!
I found dry, dirty grease caked between the bolt (pin) and the plastic sleeve. Removed the split sleeve, cleaned & polished the pin with brake cleaner and scotch bright. Cleaned the inside of the sleeve with a Q tip and brake cleaner.
Put on a layer of silicone brake lube (has moly in it) on the pin, reinstalled the sleeve. Slapped her back together. Everything works just great!!Thanks for the input.
Larry
_________________
2008 Yamaha XV250
S/W Michigan USA

[RI Parker]

Had the same thing happen to me. Thanks for the post, it really helped me fix things.

Another thing; The local (brand X) shop failed me (state inspection) for brakelight fault. It seems that the German engineers never expected brake lights to be required any time that the side stand is out. Once I tried things out and drove back to show them everything passed fine.

(Fourty five miles in 30 degree temps to get the inspection sticker. )

Getting out to the road without dropping it on the slick stuff >> priceless !!
_________________
RIP (Roy Parker)

1997 K1100LT w/ 87,000 mi
(aquired just before the snow of 12/21/09.)

[Flying Duck]

Also note that your brake light will not work after you hit the kill switch. Important to remember that in case something happens and you need to kill the bike in traffic. (Like the throttle sticks or something.)
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

[Jim]

Don't feel bad - happens to me about every other year... Sitting there on the bike, sidestand down, and the damn brake light doesn't work. Of course, I know it worked when I left the house - I always check.
_________________
Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repaired!
1992 K75RTP 46,000

"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed."

[Stoked Steve]

[drikko]

What amazes me is the sidestand seems to switch off more than the kill switch. The number of times I've been winding the starter motor for ages wondering why it won't start then realising the kill switch was off. I don't remember that happening on the K100, I'm sure it used to stop the starter motor as well!!
_________________
K1100RS '97
Laverda RGS 1000 '84
Jim Young Trailer Sailer 5.7M WB

DISCLAIMER:- Anything I say may have been when I was drunk so please don't take it personally.

'Bigamy is having one wife/husband too many. Monogamy is the same.'
Oscar Wilde

[Saltcreek]

Well, I did the brake lever pivot job today and put it back together and presto, no improvement. So I ordered among other service items a new sleeve. don't know if this will help.

In the meantime I improved the situation by adjusting some of the free play out with the screw you're not supposed to touch. Anyone think that will lead to other problems?
_________________
Jim

1994 K1100LT Mystic Red, bfd, 37000 miles, sold
2009 Wilderness Systems Zephyr 155 ST
2002 Litespeed titanium

[Jim]

One of those screws, when improperly adjusted, will apply your front brakes for you, and ultimately stop the bike. It's been several years since I did it - don't remember which screw it is. I'm sure someone here knows.
_________________
Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repaired!
1992 K75RTP 46,000

"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed."

[Rafal]

Jim if you referring to the screw at lever base that acts on master cylinder (8 mm diameter, does through the rubber cap), then the service manual says: turn in until there is no free play and then 1/2 turn more.

I have been working recently on sticky lever... It is crucial not to put any grease on the lever pivot, neither on the screw nor plastic sleeve, it won't compress or squeeze out. Before mounting the lever take a round ended drift and verify that the master cylinder moves smoothly.
The pivot screw should not be overtightened - the lever will block on lower part of pump body.
BTW I was surprised that the brake pump is "radial type" - good for me . But I was also disappointed when I noticed how lever axle is made - only one point of firm support.

Best regards
_________________
Rafal
K1100RS is a real beast (in Marrakesh Red)
K75S is a real beauty - she has gone , but not to far .

[Saltcreek]

[tmarshall57]

Be careful how you adjust the pin which engages with the master cylinder piston. There is a recent thread on here which includes reference to adjusting this pin, everything appearing normal, and later the rider (me) experiencing severe brake binding and smoking pads
_________________
K1100RS Special Edition 1997
Arctic Silver/Black