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Just Won't Start.....
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micko



Joined: 11 Jan 2010
Posts: 17
Location: Tucson Arizona

PostPosted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 12:29 pm    Post subject: Just Won't Start..... Reply with quote

Greetings,

I'm a newbie and first and foremost, many thanks to Flying Duck for his over the phone help and introduction to this forum. I'm in Tucson, Arizona.

I have a 1994 K1100 LT which up until recently has run flawlessly. I got busy with projects last year and the bike sat for about 5 months on the sidestand.

I have been trying to get it started recently and have performed the following:

Replaced the fuel line and filter
Replaced the spark plugs
Have kept the battery charged up
Disconnected, lubricated and re-seated the motronix unit
Check all electrical connections that I can find to make sure they are snugly connected
Checked fuses and replaced fuse #4 which was burned
Did not seem to be getting any gas to the plugs (tried to start it before replacing them) - they were not damp or smelling of gas
After trying to start the bike, I do not get a gas smell out of the exhaust
When I turn the power on, I get a pulse from the fuel pump.

I try to start the bike up on the center stand in neutral. I get plenty of power and I tested a spark plug while replacing them and I am getting a spark. Previously, the bike started almost immediately. The kill switch is in the middle position.

I'm given to thinking I have one of two problems:

Not getting any gas delivered. Any ideas on moving forward on this issue??

Second option might be a faulty kill switch. Since I don't seem to be getting any gas, this seems doubtful to me.

Any and all suggestions will be most welcome.

Regards,

Mick
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1994 BMW K1100 LT
67,000 Miles
Michael OHara
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
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Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 1:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did we talk about the side stand switch and how to bypass it?

Your fuel pump is making noise when it pre-pressurizes the tank so I don't think it's the fuel pump. Since the spark plugs aren't getting wet it sounds like the injectors aren't working for some reason.

I'd get a 12V LED and see if the Motornic is putting out error codes.

http://www.k11og.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2110


(You put R1100 LT in your signature.)
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93 LT (x2)
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86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
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Scott_Anderson
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 2:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If I remember correctly if the side stand switch is bad you won't have any fuel pump, guages, or idiot lights.
So if you have fuel pump running then the side stand switch shouldn't be part of the problem.

Like Duck suggests, check the injector circuit.
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1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
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Phil Marvin
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Joined: 03 Apr 2003
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Location: El Paso, Texas, USA

PostPosted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 2:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi, Micko,
Drake has you on the right path. You said there is a "pulse" from the feul pump. Does it run for a couple of seconds, enough to pressurize the system? Is your fuel filter clogged? Remove it and try to blow through it. If you can, reinstall it; if not, replace it. If the pump runs and the filter is clear, there are fuel lines, pressure regulator and injectors left. My guess would be clogged injectors.
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'94 K75A/3
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Flying Duck
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 2:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Phil: New FF installed and FP is pre-pressurizing as it should.

Micko: Did we discuss swapping relays to see if it might be the Motronic relay?

Swap the Motronic relay with one of the other black relays. The little black ones are all the same. (The blue one is for ABS.)





That might not be it since the fuel pump is working but it can't hurt to try.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
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micko



Joined: 11 Jan 2010
Posts: 17
Location: Tucson Arizona

PostPosted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 6:32 pm    Post subject: Maybe Found the issue with getting the bike started..... Reply with quote

Thanks to whoever sent the schematic.....I went to the blue connector on the left side above the battery - found it but it's not connected to anything!

I can't even find a 3 pin connector that might connect to it.....any chance that the connecting line might fall off? I would assume that it's supposed to go to the fuel injectors.....

Any ideas where to go to trace this down?

Regards,

Mick
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Michael OHara
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Flying Duck
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 6:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's the diagnostic plug for hooking it up to a computer. It's not supposed to be hooked up to anything. The blue part is a cap for the connector. It comes off and then you can use an LED to read ABS and Mortonic fault codes.
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93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
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micko



Joined: 11 Jan 2010
Posts: 17
Location: Tucson Arizona

PostPosted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 6:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks. That's the next thing I'll try.....

Mick
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1994 BMW K1100 LT
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Michael OHara
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micko



Joined: 11 Jan 2010
Posts: 17
Location: Tucson Arizona

PostPosted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 12:25 pm    Post subject: Questions about Motronix Reply with quote

Hi,

In the html that was linked, it said that for K bikes, an LED is not required and that the codes display on the temperature meter on the dashboard.

If so, would I just connect a length of wire from the positive cable directly to the pin outlet I wanted to test?

Also, my ABS lights blink constantly when I turn the bike on. They used to go off if I pressed the brake pedal but that is no longer true....maybe because it's not running???

When I turn the bike on, the fuel pump performs a single pump, lasting about a second. Should it run longer?

Last, is there more than one fuel injector and is it difficult to remove if I wanted to check it for a clog?

Thanks,

Mick
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1994 BMW K1100 LT
67,000 Miles
Michael OHara
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
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Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 2:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
In the html that was linked, it said that for K bikes, an LED is not required and that the codes display on the temperature meter on the dashboard.


Oh. I'd never read through the whole thing. I've only used the LED to get fault codes on my ABS I bike. (Your 94 is ABS II.) In reading that it sounds like the fault codes appear on the temp lamp. Hopefully Mick will pop in since he's the most knowledgeable one on this topic.

Quote:
If so, would I just connect a length of wire from the positive cable directly to the pin outlet I wanted to test?


I'd wait for Mick to pop by this thread before running wires from the positive terminal on the battery to anything.

Quote:
Also, my ABS lights blink constantly when I turn the bike on. They used to go off if I pressed the brake pedal but that is no longer true....maybe because it's not running???


The ABS does a self-test on start-up. In order to do that it needs to test the front and rear sensors. This cannot be done until the bike is moving and the sensors are sending pulses to the "brain." Your ABS lights should continue to flash until you have the bike in motion and the brain has tested the sensors.

The "triangle light" also serves as part of what is known as the bulb monitoring circuit. Once you turn the bike on, that light will stay solid until you have applied both the front and rear brakes to test those switches. If that light ever comes on (solid, not flashing) while riding then it is warning you that either your brake light or tail light bulb is out.

Once you've hit both brakes, the "triangle light" also serves as an ABS warning light. Again, this will flash with the other ABS light until the ABS has initialized when you get the bike in motion.

If the ABS lights ever start flashing while riding (or remain flashing after you've started riding) then that means your ABS "brain" is in fault mode. It means you no longer have ABS brakes. But your brakes will continue to function like normal, non-ABS brakes. (i.e. You can now lock up the front or rear wheel by braking too hard. Just like a non-ABS bike.)

ABS faults can be caused by a dying or low battery so that's a likely culprit if your ABS goes into fault mode.

Quote:
When I turn the bike on, the fuel pump performs a single pump, lasting about a second. Should it run longer?


No, that's normal. It just runs for a very short time to pre-pressurize the fuel system prior to starting.

Quote:
Last, is there more than one fuel injector and is it difficult to remove if I wanted to check it for a clog?


There is one injector per cylinder. The likelihood of one of them clogging after only five months of down time is minimal. And if even one were clogged 3 of 4 cylinders would fire. And they're a pain ro remove and reseat so I wouldn't bother.

If your spark plugs aren't wet then my guess is that for some reason the injectors aren't getting a signal. Probably something electrical vs. clogging.

Please anser this question: Have you tried shorting the sidestand switch at it's connector?
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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Scott_Anderson
Site Admin


Joined: 05 Sep 2006
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 2:23 pm    Post subject: Re: Questions about Motronix Reply with quote

micko wrote:
Hi,

In the html that was linked, it said that for K bikes, an LED is not required and that the codes display on the temperature meter on the dashboard.


They are refering to the high temp idiot light on the right side of the inst cluster.

wrote:

Also, my ABS lights blink constantly when I turn the bike on. They used to go off if I pressed the brake pedal but that is no longer true....maybe because it's not running???


Two seperate indicating systems here that you are referencing.
In the middle of the inst cluster is the red triangle brake warning lamp, it comes on when the key is turned on and goes out after both brake levers are depresed, for testing the brake light circuit.

The other (abs) lights, one in each side display stay flashing until the bike MOVES and the abs system completes it's self test. Or you can stop the flashing with the dash pad abs button. This will stop the flashing for about 5 minutes.

wrote:

When I turn the bike on, the fuel pump performs a single pump, lasting about a second. Should it run longer?


Not until the start button is depresed to try and start the bike.

wrote:

Last, is there more than one fuel injector and is it difficult to remove if I wanted to check it for a clog?


Yep, there are 4. One for each cylinder.
They are not real hard to get to but you do have to remove the lower left fairing panel to have any real working room.
2 10mm bolts, and some zip ties and that's about it.
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Ride safe.



1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)
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micko



Joined: 11 Jan 2010
Posts: 17
Location: Tucson Arizona

PostPosted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 2:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I haven't tried disconnecting the kickstand shutoff.....don't really know how. When I drop the kick stand down, I can't even get the dash lights to come on so it seems to be working. However, I'd be willing to try and short it out if not too difficult.

Also haven't tried switching the relays....I guess I just raise the gas tank to get access? Is this worth following up on before I LED test the Motronic? I'm going to head off to Radio Shack and get an LED tester.....

Thx,

Mick
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67,000 Miles
Michael OHara
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Flying Duck
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 2:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
I haven't tried disconnecting the kickstand shutoff.....don't really know how. When I drop the kick stand down, I can't even get the dash lights to come on so it seems to be working. However, I'd be willing to try and short it out if not too difficult.


Sounds like its working. (I have that switch disabled on my bikes so I forget exactly what happens when the sidestand is down.)

I've asked Mick to drop in here when he gets a chance.
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93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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micko



Joined: 11 Jan 2010
Posts: 17
Location: Tucson Arizona

PostPosted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 6:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello,

Tried the LED and got nothing but a solid light. Tried it a few times with the positive to the battery and the negative to the line 1 opening.....

Thoughts???
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Michael OHara
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bmwmick
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 07 Jun 2003
Posts: 907
Location: Tucson, AZ

PostPosted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 6:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I sent you a PM.

Mick

Take that 12V LED you got and put it across one of the injectors. All 4 injectors see the same pulse (it's a ground pulse from the Motronic) so any one will do.
You will probably have to remove the left side lower to gain good access. Stripping the left side would be a good idea anyway. They you can get at the fuel rail AND the injectors. I suspect you have a blockage.
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Mick McKinnon
KOG#175
'93 K1100LT, '96 R1100RT, '84 R100RS, 2010 Kawasaki C-14
Tucson, AZ


Last edited by bmwmick on Thu Jan 14, 2010 6:54 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Saltcreek
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 6:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Two members in Tucson. I lived in Tucson briefly in the early 70's. That's when I owned my first motorcycle. I don't even remember what it was. I loved it there and thinking of the roads outside of the city, in the desert and the mountains, I wish I could ride there again. Maybe this will be the summer I put together a trip out west.
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 7:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

micko:

Here's a link to a write-up I did on removing a K75RT fairing. It's pretty similar to a K1100LT and should help you get the radio out and the left side panel off:
http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech/rt-fairing/k75rt_fairing.shtml

The leads on the injectors are held on by a little square wire clip. You need to remove that before you can get the fuel injector connector off.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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micko



Joined: 11 Jan 2010
Posts: 17
Location: Tucson Arizona

PostPosted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 8:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks...

Most likely since when I removed the fuel line, there were parts in the gas tank and the line was cracked and dry when removed. Twill be my next project. Maybe start tomorrow. Thanks for the info.

Regards,

Mick
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micko



Joined: 11 Jan 2010
Posts: 17
Location: Tucson Arizona

PostPosted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 8:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tomorrow I will remove the fairing and test the fuel injector (time permitting) with the LED.

Regards,

Mick
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Michael OHara
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micko



Joined: 11 Jan 2010
Posts: 17
Location: Tucson Arizona

PostPosted: Fri Jan 15, 2010 3:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I tested the fuel injector with the LED and got no light. I tried testing it all by itself with the power on as well as with the positive hooked to the battery. Still no light.

I'm in the process of removing the fairing but the BMW radio is proving to be quite troublesome to remove. I've popped the lower clip but can find an upper one and while I jiggle the radio around, it's still firmly attached to something underneath.

Any suggestions?
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