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K11 Clutch and Main Seal Questions

 
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CrashBar



Joined: 17 Feb 2008
Posts: 17
Location: Sommerville MA

PostPosted: Fri Feb 26, 2010 11:26 pm    Post subject: K11 Clutch and Main Seal Questions Reply with quote

2 questions:

1 - my one clutch plate has a broken spring. I markred both plates at removal so I could re-install the same way to maintain the factory balance. If I replace that plate how do I ensure I am balanced? If I am replacing one should I just replace both ($ notwithstanding) - again same balance isssue.



2 - I've read a lot about installing a new main seal. How do I get the old one out? Any tricks? The seal *is* the thing marked 50-80-10, right?


CB
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Scott_Anderson
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Joined: 05 Sep 2006
Posts: 3122
Location: Central Iowa, USA

PostPosted: Sat Feb 27, 2010 12:12 am    Post subject: Re: K11 Clutch and Main Seal Questions Reply with quote

CrashBar wrote:
1 - my one clutch plate has a broken spring. I markred both plates at removal so I could re-install the same way to maintain the factory balance. If I replace that plate how do I ensure I am balanced? If I am replacing one should I just replace both ($ notwithstanding) - again same balance isssue.


You need to try and find the original balance marking on your remaining parts, the rear "clutch housing" and the "housing cover". When you purchase the new/used "pressure plate"(your broken part) it should also have a balance mark. When you assemble the 3 parts you want the original marks 120' apart for the best balance.


wrote:
2 - I've read a lot about installing a new main seal. How do I get the old one out?

I used a generic "claw" type seal puller to remove the old one.

wrote:
The seal *is* the thing marked 50-80-10, right?


Yes that is the seal.
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1995 K1100LT 0302044
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CrashBar



Joined: 17 Feb 2008
Posts: 17
Location: Sommerville MA

PostPosted: Sat Feb 27, 2010 1:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks. I just ordered *all* the parts I need, although I'm sure I missed something. Spring is still 6 weeks away.
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malcolmt
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 23 Apr 2007
Posts: 369
Location: Parys, S.Africa

PostPosted: Sat Feb 27, 2010 7:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is a good decision to change all. A couple of years ago the O ring behind the clutch basket started to leak, oil got on the clutch plate and it slipped like crazy.
I changed only the friction plate as the was ol rather than wear which caused the slipping. It was a poor decision.
Twelve months after that it started to slip again. When it was stripped I found the fwear on the clutch plates cause the friction plate to barely make contact.
I replaced to lot, what a difference it made, the clutch is now perfect and the bike has almost no vibes like my K75.

Malcolm(t)
Joburg
South Africa.
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Scott_Anderson
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 27, 2010 8:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

CB, make a mental note of where the engine oil level is in the sight glass.
If the level is at the center you will leak some out when you pull the seal out.
You may be due for an oil change anyway, or not, just don't be alarmed when it comes running out.
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1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)
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SugarHillCTD
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Joined: 10 Oct 2007
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Location: Now in Eastern Pennsylvania

PostPosted: Sat Feb 27, 2010 8:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh, yeah- You are going to change the clutch nut O-ring, right? Mine was the cause of the clutch slip and it was hard as a rock when I went to replace it.
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Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 18 Jul 2007
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 27, 2010 7:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

+1 on the o-ring. Don't forget to leave the new seal proud by .5mm (.020").
A buddy of mine works at a GM garage and he borrowed a seal installer tool. He didn't know what it was for, just that it fit the seal. I gave him the old one for fitting.

A little ladies foot takes the old seal out without damage to the case or bearing behind it.
Jeff
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Flying Duck
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Joined: 27 Jan 2005
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Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Sun Feb 28, 2010 12:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's my understanding (though I could be wrong) that the clutch housing (big aluminum thing) is balanced separately and that the pressure plates are balanced as a pair.

I've seen a lot of clutches and never found a balancing mark. Rolling Eyes
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Scott_Anderson
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 28, 2010 9:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Flying Duck wrote:
It's my understanding (though I could be wrong) that the clutch housing (big aluminum thing) is balanced separately and that the pressure plates are balanced as a pair.

I've seen a lot of clutches and never found a balancing mark. Rolling Eyes


I only mentioned it because I had the mark on mine(the '95) when I pulled it apart.


Or was the yellow dot for something else?
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1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)
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malcolmt
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Joined: 23 Apr 2007
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 28, 2010 12:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My understanding is big alloy thing, the clutch cover plate, and the other steel clutch plate have their dots spaced 120 deg apart for balance.

Its in one of my manuals, not sure which one.

Malcolm(t)
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6899
Mad Brick Rider


Joined: 11 Oct 2006
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Location: Indianapolis, IN

PostPosted: Tue Mar 02, 2010 4:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I took my K1100LT apart, I found marks on all my parts - both pressure plates and the diaphragm.

Luckily I had already marked the clutch basket with typewriter fluid (obsolete item) Laughing That way if you only need to replace the clutch, the wild card is the diaphragm. I noticed that my new diaphragm did not have markings on it.

I also had to replace the O ring - at 14 yrs and 74K miles, it was hard and had no flex. While I was at it, I replaced the rear engine seal. At only 74K, the pressure plates were still useable (no evidence of damage - a benefit of Mobil One Synthetic 15w50?)
Wink

When I get my bike back together, look for a LOT of photos.

Martin
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CrashBar



Joined: 17 Feb 2008
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Location: Sommerville MA

PostPosted: Sat Mar 20, 2010 8:52 am    Post subject: Update 3/19 Reply with quote

I bought this seal puller at auto zone, and the main seal came right out.



Then I bought this socket which sat right in the groove of the old seal




Drove the seal in a litle further than in this pic, about 1/2 mm as suggested. Then reinstalled the thin "washer", clutch basket, and o ring. New Thrust washer and clutch nut are threaded on but not Torqued on yet. I'm a little confused about the additional 50 degrees rotation after the second torque setting mentioned elsewhere on this site (but which is not mentioned at Duck's http://smithduck.home.comcast.net/~smithduck/bmw/tech/clutch/clutch.htm ).
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Flying Duck
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 20, 2010 10:51 am    Post subject: Re: Update 3/19 Reply with quote

BMW K1100 Service Manual wrote:
Install thrust ring (4) with new O-ring (3).
Screw on hexagon nut (5).

1. Tighten hexagon nut .............................. 140 Nm
2. Loosen hexagon nut again
3. Tighten hexagon nut ................................ 50 Nm
4. Tightening angle .......................................... 50 °


That's all I gotts.

Make of it what you will. Perhaps it's referring to a U-joint angle on the torque wrench?

Clymer makes no mention of it. (And gives a range of 50-100 Nm for the final tightening which seems a bit whacky to me.)
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93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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Scott_Anderson
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 20, 2010 1:01 pm    Post subject: Re: Update 3/19 Reply with quote

Flying Duck wrote:
BMW K1100 Service Manual wrote:
Install thrust ring (4) with new O-ring (3).
Screw on hexagon nut (5).

1. Tighten hexagon nut .............................. 140 Nm
2. Loosen hexagon nut again
3. Tighten hexagon nut ................................ 50 Nm
4. Tightening angle .......................................... 50 °


That's all I gotts.

Make of it what you will. Perhaps it's referring to a U-joint angle on the torque wrench?

Clymer makes no mention of it. (And gives a range of 50-100 Nm for the final tightening which seems a bit whacky to me.)


I got to step #4 and looked at it like a clock.
Started at 12 o'clock and pulled till I got to about 1:45. If 3 o'clock is 90 degrees, then I figured that 1:45 should be close to 50 degrees.

I missed this the 1st time I did mine as well.
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1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)
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Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 18 Jul 2007
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 20, 2010 9:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is exactly what it means. The most accurate way to tighten a fastener is by how much it stretches. Since we cannot measure the change in length on this setup the next best way is to measure the angle of rotation. Using a torque wrench is the least accurate but far and away the easiest way to set the load on a fastener.

Even though your torque wrench may be very accurate and precise, it will not guarantee that the fastener has the proper load on it. Some of the things that effect the load applied by torquing are lubrication, quality of threads, finish on mating surfaces and amount and type of lubrication.

All that being said, it's just a clutch nut. Tighten it to torque or tighten it with a carpenters angle finder. Either one is close enough for the girls we go out with.
Jeff
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