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ABS-ll question ???
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Ernie-NH
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 21, 2010 8:20 pm    Post subject: ABS-ll question ??? Reply with quote

G'Evening everyone...

OK... before I get on with the ABS "super sticky" diagnostic posted by Mick back in 2006, WHAT is the most common cause for the flashing ABS instrument indicator lamps ? Is it just too much to hope that it is simply the ABS relay ???

Thanks for any input .........// Ernie-NH
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Scott_Anderson
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 21, 2010 8:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd check your sensor clearance, also how old is your battery.
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SugarHillCTD
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 21, 2010 9:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ernie,

+1 on battery voltage. The light show gets me when I leave the bike for more than a week or so off the charger- and since I'm not riding it very often lately Rolling Eyes

John
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Stoked Steve
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 21, 2010 9:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
I'd check your sensor clearance, also how old is your battery.


What he said, especially the battery after a long cold NH winter!
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 21, 2010 9:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ernie - the most likely culprit is a weak battery.
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Ernie-NH
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 21, 2010 10:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy

OK..OK...OK.. "Weak battery wins by leaps and bounds! " I'll check it out in the a.m. and report accordingly !

Thanks all......// Ernie-NH
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supercat1
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 21, 2010 11:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

is a weak battery something that will continue to cause the lights to flash after the bike has been running and the abs switch pushed? my brother's k11rs seems to have an abs issue somewhere. on the 2hr ride from picking it up he said that the switch didn't clear the lights when pushed.

i'll have to check the clearances too. he doesn't care too much as his gsx-r's don't have abs. i care though because i want everything to work. Wink
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SugarHillCTD
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 22, 2010 6:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The ABS switch on the dash isn't for resetting the lights when used by itself. When you press it it changes the lights from (annoyingly) flashing to (only mildly annoying) continuously lit for about 15 minutes. Then they begin to flash again until another press for another 15 minute respite.

It is used in conjunction with grounding the #2 pin for 30 sec. or so for a (hopeful- if the stars are aligned) true reset.
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Skip Jacques



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PostPosted: Thu Apr 22, 2010 9:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good information... I've found that my lights will flash alternating some mornings when I start her up and not go away, instead of them flashing syncronously and shutting off at 2 mph.

Now, when they do this, I turn off the bike and restart it... then it's back to normal.

Most of these mornings have been 35°F, so that would account for a lower battery charge. Idea

Thanks guys!
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supercat1
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 22, 2010 12:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

SugarHillCTD wrote:
The ABS switch on the dash isn't for resetting the lights when used by itself. When you press it it changes the lights from (annoyingly) flashing to (only mildly annoying) continuously lit for about 15 minutes. Then they begin to flash again until another press for another 15 minute respite.

It is used in conjunction with grounding the #2 pin for 30 sec. or so for a (hopeful- if the stars are aligned) true reset.


well that seems slightly counterintuitive and almost beyond useless. why would you need a button on the dash that does nothing?
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Flying Duck
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 22, 2010 3:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's very useful for:

a) Getting the light to stop blinking for several minutes. This does make a difference as the flashing lights when faulted is a distraction when riding.

b) It can be used to reset a faulted ABS brain.
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Ernie-NH
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 22, 2010 7:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sad Sad Sad

Good evening all....

OK.... battery has been on full charge cycle ( 12V @ 2Amps ) for 24 hours....Battery now at 14.4 Volts... Lights still alternate flashing hence no ABS function. So, relative to the Ducks comment (ie: b) It can be used to reset a faulted ABS brain. "" Please explain just how this reset of faulted ABS brain using the 'null switch' is carried out . or Do I now have to dig into the Sticky that Mick outlined in detail ?

Best regards all, and thanks for the advice thus far. I'm sure many of us will benefit greatly from this discussion.

Ernie-NH
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SugarHillCTD
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 22, 2010 7:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ernie-

Find the 3 wire plug under/near the left side cover- just below the front of the seat. You might have to dig around there but the plug doesn't have anything attached to it and it is a 3 female straight connector.

Take a bare wire and insert it into the middle opening (#2) and ground the other end. Hold the ABS switch down and turn on the ignition (but do not start the engine) for about 30 seconds.

Most times it works the first time but occasionally I have had to do it 2 or 3 times to get the lights to cancel. "Are you feeling lucky?"

Good luck!!!

John
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Ernie-NH
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 22, 2010 7:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy

Hi John....

OK... will do as soon as the rain stops and I can get out to my barn ! Will let you know how it turns out !

Thanks as always for the good advice ! ......// Ernie-NH
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Ernie-NH
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 22, 2010 8:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy

Hello everyone.....

OK,,OK,,,OK...... Got a bit wet underway to the barn, BUT took John's suggestion ( see preceding posts ), found the 'dead end' connector, did as he instructed and it worked first time. So,, back in business !

Thanks again to all for advice and suggestions !

Ernie-NH
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Stoked Steve
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 22, 2010 8:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Keep that baby on a battery tender!
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Ernie-NH
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 24, 2010 2:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good morning all...

OK... as I stated, my latest ABS difficulty was solved using the advice that SugarHill provided. I attribute this problem ( correct me if you think this is incorrect ) to the rougher than 'wash board' roads we have here in New Hampshire causing the rear wheel to occasionally bounce ( ie: leave the road ) and providing a false signal to the ABS. IF I remember, didnt Duck have a similar situation not long ago relative to ABS and 'road surface' conditions and another involving his attempt to climb a sandy incline ?? This led me to think, if perhaps someone has found a way to turn the ABS function on or off as the situation dictates ?? Would that be a desirable capability or not ???

Best regards all, enjoy the weekend.............// Ernie-NH
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 24, 2010 2:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My wasn't faulting on the slippery stuff but I suppose that's possible.

Yes, in certain situations (Low traction) it is desirable to be able to turn it off. The GS R bikes have that feature.

I think I've found a way to make ABS I switchable. Plan to maybe try it out this summer. I emailed the dude in Japan who repairs ABS I brains about what I plan to do and he said he thinks it will work. On a K1100LT ABS I brain, the main power for the brain is pin 16 which is a green wire. I'll put a switch on that.

Procedure:

Turn ABS off: Turn off the bike, turn off 12V power to pin 16 wire. Restart bike. (It might be possible to do it on the fly but given how fickle ABS brains can be I figure it is better to be safe than sorry.)

Turn ABS on: Turn off bike, turn on power to pin 16 wire. Restart bike and ABS should initialize properly. (fingers crossed.)

Since the ABS gets it's power from the battery through the ignition switch, it might not be a bad idea to add a fuse to the circuit. Not sure how many amps it draws though. Can't be too much since it's only powering the brain.


In looking at the wiring diagram for an ABS II, it looks like the power for the ABS brain is a red thicker wire entering the ABS control unit on pin 14. Given the use of the thicker wire, I'd guess that for ABS II it powers not only the brain but the modulators as well.

Again, it's an unfused circuit so adding a fuse might be a good idea. I'd probably start with a 15 amp fuse and then doing a test ride to lock up the modulators and see if that blows the fuse. Then try 20 amp. Or heck, maybe go unfused because the LAST thing you'd want is for the fuse to blow right when you really need the modulators to work. I just changed my mind - leave it unfused.
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Ernie-NH
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 24, 2010 3:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy

Hi Duck....

Say.... since you're a guy who KNOWS what he's doing, we'll all wait to see how you make out and what your best advice would be relative to selectively turning ABS I and or II on/off. Whats the worst that could happen.... have the modulators quit and then not be able to come back on until the bike is shut off and restarted ??

Good luck and ride safe.....// Ernie-NH

PS: BTW who is the "guy" in Japan that repairs ABS brains ??
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Ted
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 24, 2010 4:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ernie-NH wrote:
PS: BTW who is the "guy" in Japan that repairs ABS brains ??


http://bmwk10075abs1fix.web.fc2.com/
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