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Aux Fan Switch

 
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lee richter
Mad Brick Rider


Joined: 05 Nov 2009
Posts: 83
Location: Orlando, FL

PostPosted: Mon May 03, 2010 7:21 pm    Post subject: Aux Fan Switch Reply with quote

I have been reading this site with great interest since I aquired a 1994 K1100LT. I would like to install an Aux switch for the radiator fan and on one of these sites I saw a hand drawing of a switch, a relay, and a resistor. But, with my shrinking memory I can't remember were and my search has come back Negative. The reason for the interest is that this bike will run 35-100 MPH for hours on end and never miss a beat, however when slowed to 0-30 MPH it will shut-off within 20 minutes and will not restart for about 5-10 minutes. The fuel pump runs, but it will not fire. There is a strong unburned fuel odor when it will not start. All lights are functioning just no start. Temp indicator is in the normal range so I do not think it is an engine over heat. I think that something in the electronics is heat sooking, it only has to set a few minutes to restart. the longer it is allowed to set the longer it will run after the restart. If it is run to highway speeds it will continue to run for hours, literally. I have replaced the Hall Effect, I could heat it with a hair dryer and shut the engine down. Misc. replace the Plugs, Primary Wires, all the filters, Relays (expensive)suggested by lcl BMW, paid BMW to check the Motronic ECU, no codes, hooked a line gauge to the fuel pump and watched for the presure drop, pump stops only after the engine shuts down and the pump will restart when the key is cycled. My back ground is I'm a fair mechanic, Cars, Trucks, Airplanes and most things that say not user servicable parts inside. Ok, this really, really has me irritated. Now that I have vented, any body up for a scotch or two or three. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
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Lee Richter
Orlando, FL
I like flying, HIGH or low, Wings or Not
182 Texas Tail Dragger
'39 J3 Cub
2000 HD Soft Tail Sold
2002 R1150R
1994 K1100LT
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Ted
Site Admin


Joined: 03 Apr 2003
Posts: 1117
Location: Further

PostPosted: Mon May 03, 2010 7:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Howdy Lee,

Sorry to hear of the irritation Smile When the engine dies, does it die suddenly and completely or sputter off? Have you tested the new hall effect sensor (someone here or on the MOA site replaced one and found the replacement was faulty!) Have you checked the coils for cracks or run in a dark garage looking for any arcing? When you pulled the plugs did they look ok?
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Ted
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miKeinWIs
Mad Brick Rider


Joined: 29 Jun 2009
Posts: 143
Location: Birchwood, WI

PostPosted: Mon May 03, 2010 7:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is a more current post on the fan switch. Basically Drakes resistor idea has been done away with. Just wire a switch into the fan relay wire.
http://www.k11og.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4759&start=0&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=fan+switch

As for the dieing under 30 mph--you know more than I if you fool around with aircraft (EAA member but just wishful thinking).
Others will chime I'm sure.
Good luck
Mike
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Bought 6/30/09 w/26,750 miles
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Tim (Midland Section)
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 08 Apr 2005
Posts: 960
Location: Pinxton, Nottingham, England.

PostPosted: Mon May 03, 2010 7:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There are 2 Temp sensors, one drives the gauge. The other talks to the EMU. They have been known to go open circuit at a point in the range.
HTH
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lee richter
Mad Brick Rider


Joined: 05 Nov 2009
Posts: 83
Location: Orlando, FL

PostPosted: Tue May 04, 2010 11:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ted, thanks for the quick reply. It dies like the key was turned off. When it dies, all the lites are out just like it was still running. When the key is cycled off and back on the lites lite-up normal and it will not restart. I have checked the Hall Effect as I originally did with a hair dryer and an Infered Temp. probe. The original would fail at 200 -210 degrees regularly. The replacement does not appear to have a temp issue. (225-240 no problem). I do not know what the design parameters are but for the Automotive Industry 240 is the top limit. I have heated the TPS, the coils and the ECM. It appears as long as there is good air flow ie higher speeds the area under the tank does not get above 175-185 unless the Ambient is 95+ the the sky is the limit.
Last summer I had gas tank temps of 192 on a 97 degree day and open highway running. I did some insulating and constructed a fuel cooler and now I can keep fuel tank temps within 15 degrees of ambient. The thought was to install a fan control that would allow the fan to operate at stop and go speeds, otherwise the temp will go into the red before the fan comes on and it will die in less than 15 minutes. BMWs idea is to start swapping out the electronics untill the problem goes away. By the time you think about get out the ohm meter it will restart. The NO-start window is very narrow. Original plug condition was un-remarkable, dark observation of coils was neg as was misting with water.
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Lee Richter
Orlando, FL
I like flying, HIGH or low, Wings or Not
182 Texas Tail Dragger
'39 J3 Cub
2000 HD Soft Tail Sold
2002 R1150R
1994 K1100LT
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10102
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Tue May 04, 2010 12:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If everything dies then it sounds like a bad ignition switch or load shed relay.
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93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
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lee richter
Mad Brick Rider


Joined: 05 Nov 2009
Posts: 83
Location: Orlando, FL

PostPosted: Thu May 06, 2010 10:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Relay was BMWs recomendation, expensive for what it is, and not returnable after instalation even if they are the installer. I removed the ignition switch and disaembled it at the recomendatin of a local rider. It did not show any indication of corrosion but cleaned it and lubed it with a healthy dose of DiaElectric Compound. Continuity across the contacts not any beter after than before. I remove and disassembled the right bar switch due to the fact that on occation the emergency kill switch would have to be cycled to get the starter to run. It had a lot of gunk but no corrosion. What about the Ingnition Module in the relay bay? Are they subject to heat failure, heat soak, alot of these units in the automotive industry require a heat sink to bleed of latent heat. I hate to do the hair dryer in the electronics bay. I'm told by BMW and other riders that when the ECM fairs it is not intermittant. I have check it a number of times for fail codes to no avail. Any suggestions from anyone would be greatly appreciated. There is no telling what the history of this machine is. It had been left sitting ing a garage for over a year when I aquired it. It, needless to say, was not running, I cleaned out the fuel system and put a new battery in and it fired right off. I put about 2000 miles on it before this issue arised. It started without any warning and has been fairly consistant with consideration to ambient temps. During the winter with temps in the 60s it would run with out trouble.
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Lee Richter
Orlando, FL
I like flying, HIGH or low, Wings or Not
182 Texas Tail Dragger
'39 J3 Cub
2000 HD Soft Tail Sold
2002 R1150R
1994 K1100LT
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10102
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Thu May 06, 2010 12:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The little black relays are all the same. Try swapping the horn relay with the load shedding relay or maybe the Motronic relay.


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93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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jpberens1994K1100RS
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 06 Apr 2008
Posts: 784
Location: Hales Corners, WI. / Relocating to central FL.

PostPosted: Thu May 06, 2010 2:02 pm    Post subject: Manual Fan Switch Reply with quote

Add the switch anyway, even though that may not be the issue. Be good to your ride.
I got a switch from Flying Duck.

When it's hot like 80 degrees F or so and I run into traffic, I just push my switch and don't worry about it.

Even into the 90's and put putting in traffic the guage on my RS stays rigth at the 1/2 mark.

It's a clean set up. It's an altered ABS switch and when I press it up the fan comes on. Way easy to install.

The Drake can set you up.
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ChrisWeeK1100RS
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 06 Sep 2009
Posts: 162
Location: Malaysia

PostPosted: Wed May 12, 2010 10:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey guys,

This was the EXACT same glitch I encountered during my recent ride to Phuket that I mentioned in my 'Brick survives PBW' posting.

The bike was fine on the highway, but then we hit some major traffic closer to town and whilst stopped at a traffic light, the bike just died.

Pushed it to the side of the road and tried to restart, the starter motor was spinning healthily but the bike just wouldn't start. Turned the ignition off and then on, all the lights on the instrument cluster lit up as usual, but the bike still refused to start. It almost seemed like there was no fuel getting into the engine.

It was a good 20min before the bike managed to fire up again and from then it didn't skip a beat for the rest of the trip. So you reckon fitting an aux fan switch will do the trick? Smile

Or is this something more serious like a fuel pump problem / fuel pressure regulator issue? Sometimes whilst on the go, and with around 1/2 to 1/4 tank of fuel, I can feel some 'hesitation', like the engine is suffering from fuel starvation. But this only happens when the tank is between 1/2 and 1/4 full. Weird!

Chris
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jpberens1994K1100RS
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 06 Apr 2008
Posts: 784
Location: Hales Corners, WI. / Relocating to central FL.

PostPosted: Wed May 12, 2010 10:29 am    Post subject: heat Reply with quote

I'm not certain your problem could be cured with this, but more heat certainly cannot help.

The manual fan switch is sooooooo nice to keep the temps down.

When you run into some traffic, just switch it on, stay away from the red.

I even use mine after washing the bike to help dry things off and blow out extra water hanging out in there. Then I go for a little spin to get the rest out.
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10102
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Wed May 12, 2010 11:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If a K bike is quitting when it gets hot then it's usually the Hall Effect Sensor goingt bad. One test you can perform is to remove the cover over the HES and see if you can induce a shutdown by warming the HES with a heat gun.

When it quits on you, try pouring some cold water on the HES cover. Sometimes that will help the bike restart more quickly.
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93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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Naked Hoof
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 02 Mar 2010
Posts: 150
Location: Northern NJ

PostPosted: Wed May 12, 2010 2:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had my K die after a nice local ride at supra-legal speeds. I did a lot of searching that day, and it wasn't looking good for the HES. Luckily, I found that the side stand "bypass" (a wire-tie) was "malfunctioning".

However, while I was searching I did manage to find a page that outlined how to repair the HES on an Airhead, and you should be able to do the same with the one on your K:

http://www.ebbo.org/2av54.php
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79 Honda CB750 trainer
traded for Suzuki GS1150e (stolen)
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93 K1100RS Mystic Red

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lee richter
Mad Brick Rider


Joined: 05 Nov 2009
Posts: 83
Location: Orlando, FL

PostPosted: Wed May 12, 2010 7:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well this is not a new issue it is one that I have been dealing with for a while. My initial investigation lead me to believe that the Hall Effect had a heat induced delamination problem. ( engineering BS for when it gets hot a printed circuit will loose connectivity) I bought one from Drake, and after installing the replacement the issue was not as frequent and I could not induce failure with a heat gun. A trip to the local BMW shop lead to the replacement of the Load Shed Relay. At one time or another I have remove all the switches, including the key switch and disassemble cleaned (they did not show any sign of corosion) Ohm testing was no different after cleaning than before. However, now "I" now know their condition. I have taken some measures to insulate the heat from Me and the gas tank. In this process using a temp probe I found that the normal running temp in the area under the tank is 200+ on a good day and when road temps reach 95 this will run 265+. In traffic the fan does not cycle until the temp gauge is in the red. The issue is this area retains far to much heat. I have entertained the idea of installing a fan behind each side grill to evac this area, and I still may, what is another pound or two.

Fuel will continue to be delivered when it shuts down, strong unburned fuel smell when trying to restart. I have installed a fuel presure gauge to be able to monitor the fuel pump delivery operation (its a pilot thing). My next step is going to be to install a series of LEDS to monitor engine electronics. I will figure this out, I WILL NOT SUBMIT...
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Lee Richter
Orlando, FL
I like flying, HIGH or low, Wings or Not
182 Texas Tail Dragger
'39 J3 Cub
2000 HD Soft Tail Sold
2002 R1150R
1994 K1100LT
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Mystic Red
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 28 Mar 2005
Posts: 2330
Location: Twin Lakes Idaho

PostPosted: Wed May 12, 2010 9:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dirty starter? Most everything runs thru it. Just a thought.
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lee richter
Mad Brick Rider


Joined: 05 Nov 2009
Posts: 83
Location: Orlando, FL

PostPosted: Thu May 13, 2010 5:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Took the starter suggestion early on as it was an easy look-see. The bike currently shows 49K and I have put 5K of that on it my self. The starter was remarkably clean. Cleaned it anyway, put the armatur in the lath and dressed it and the regrooved, lubed the bushings and re- assemble and in stall. Good, as I am now sure of its condition. The draw is about the same as when I removed it.
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Lee Richter
Orlando, FL
I like flying, HIGH or low, Wings or Not
182 Texas Tail Dragger
'39 J3 Cub
2000 HD Soft Tail Sold
2002 R1150R
1994 K1100LT
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