K11 Owners Group

[Rich_Brick]

I still havent removed my RH heated grip to enable me to fit a new front brake lever and master cylinder. I have traced the 2.no wires from the hole in the bars at the stem to underneath the tank, please could someone tell me - is it worth lifting the tank to trace the wires back to connections and unclipping them to enable the grip to be reomved or - as suggested previously should i just clip the wire where it leaves the bar and put a connection on afterwards?

Basically how much hassle is it going to be to lift the tank and is it worth it?

Cheers
_________________
Rich

Somerset, UK

[SugarHillCTD]

Rich,

I thought that removing the fuel tank was a process that had to be done multiple times every month- at least that was my experience.

-seat off
-unplug the fuel pump
-remove the black panels alongside the tank
-undo the fuel lines

-tank off

done
_________________
John & Cathy

'92 K100RS4V Pearl White SOLD
'04 K1200GT
IBA Several-SS1k, BBG, 50CC NYC to S.F.

[Flying Duck]

Just cut the wires and reattach. Be careful not to break the connection where the wires connect to the heating element. You can't resolder that connection. (Actually you can, it just won't last very long.)
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

[Al.]

don't cut the wires - I pulled them out by mistake - a pia to solder them back. I'd lift the tank and look for the connector.

I managed to do master without bleeding the system.
I put up a post at that time.
I sucked out the fluid disconnected the banjo and tied it up.
I joggled the lever gently after I put it back and put fluid in it.

Cover tank etc with lots of cloths and maybe plastic under to
stop soak through. It sure spits the fluid if you press the lever
to smartly. Can go several feet.