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robleyd Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 23 Jul 2009 Posts: 398 Location: Murbko, Australia
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Posted: Wed Aug 04, 2010 3:28 am Post subject: |
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Update - new relay arrived; seems I only ordered one where I meant to order two Plugged it in on the side where I couldn't feel the relay clicking and we now have a fully functioning screen
Just to offset that good news, I managed to drop my System V helmet whilst preparing for a test ride and ruined another $100 visor. Why does it always manage to fall visor side down</rhetoric> Obviously the helmets are made of recycled cats!
Anyway, a big thanks to all those who provided advice on this problem.
Here, have one on me:  _________________ David, owner of:
1996 K1100 LT |
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rbm Mad Brick Rider

Joined: 02 Jun 2009 Posts: 115 Location: Toronto
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Posted: Wed Aug 04, 2010 7:22 am Post subject: |
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Great news that the screen is functioning again.
Your failure echos similar failures I've read about on other K-bike forums. The motor is a reactive load and draws large reactive current from the electrical system through the relay contacts while under load. If you try to move the windshield up while at speed, the additional wind load causes the realy contacts to burn out via sparking that happens when the switch is released or limit reached. It is more likely to kill the Up relay than the Down relay. In the down direction, the wind is assisting the motor; in the up direction, the motor is fighting the wind.
Thanks for the beer -- goes down good in this heat. _________________ - Robert
1987 K75 @k75retro.blogspot.ca
2011 Moto Guzzi V7 Racer |
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Tony627
Joined: 21 Jul 2010 Posts: 20 Location: Kent, England
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Posted: Wed Aug 04, 2010 2:42 pm Post subject: |
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I have heard that I can replace the screen motor with one that was fitted to a peugeot car. Has anyone any knowledge of this?
Many thanks
Tony _________________ He who laughs last didn't get the joke in the first place!!
1995 K1100LT alias 'Big Red' |
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Mystic Red Flying Brick Rider

Joined: 28 Mar 2005 Posts: 2330 Location: Twin Lakes Idaho
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Posted: Wed Aug 04, 2010 3:37 pm Post subject: |
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| Quote: | | Why does it always manage to fall visor side down</rhetoric> Obviously the helmets are made of recycled cats! |
Ever drop a piece of toast?  _________________ Scott Hespelt, '94 K11LT
K11 OG #466 |
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drikko Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 20 Nov 2009 Posts: 1966 Location: Brisbane, OZ
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Posted: Wed Aug 04, 2010 4:32 pm Post subject: |
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If you stick the piece of toast to the back of the helmet you will never break another visor.
Good to hear it's fixed, now you can slowly lower the screen as you get older and shorter. _________________ K1100RS '97
Laverda RGS 1000 '84
Jim Young Trailer Sailer 5.7M WB
DISCLAIMER:- Anything I say may have been when I was drunk so please don't take it personally.
'Bigamy is having one wife/husband too many. Monogamy is the same.'
Oscar Wilde |
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Tim (Midland Section) Flying Brick Rider

Joined: 08 Apr 2005 Posts: 960 Location: Pinxton, Nottingham, England.
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Posted: Wed Aug 04, 2010 5:50 pm Post subject: |
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| Tony627 wrote: | I have heard that I can replace the screen motor with one that was fitted to a peugeot car. Has anyone any knowledge of this?
Tony |
IIRC, Pug 306 electric window motors are the ones.
In all my years of K11's never had screen electric faults despite raising & lowering at speed. IMHO roasted relays come from poor servicing & lack of lubrication. _________________ Regards Tim,
Grey haired riders don't get that way by pure luck
1996 Guzzi Cali3 LAPD
1972 750 Commando
G6HRN
#485 |
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rbm Mad Brick Rider

Joined: 02 Jun 2009 Posts: 115 Location: Toronto
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Posted: Thu Aug 05, 2010 10:42 am Post subject: |
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| Tim (Midland Section) wrote: | | In all my years of K11's never had screen electric faults despite raising & lowering at speed. IMHO roasted relays come from poor servicing & lack of lubrication. | Very true. Poorly maintained gide rods and sliders will put more of a load on the motor, causing excessive current draw resluting in either blown fuses or failed components.
This topic was also recently discussed on the K100 forums at k100rt.aforumfree.com. Bert (Crazy Frog) mentioned that he used a 7.5A fused circuit for powering his windshield motor but experienced blown fuses often when raising the windshield over 100 Km/H. Moving the windshield to a 15A fused circuit cured the problem. The blown fuses could be explained if the circuit was operating near the rated capacity and a small additional load on the motor caused a current draw that exceeded the fuse's capacity. It does indicate that wind puts a load on the motor and it could be a probable mode for Up relay contact failure, should taht happen repeatedly. In any case, over-fusing the motor circuit and over-specing the relays will cure this problem.
I plan on installing an Eastern Beaver auxillary fuse panel in my K100RT in future and dedicating a circuit to the windshield. I will also periodically spray the guide rods with silicone spray as recommended by BMW. _________________ - Robert
1987 K75 @k75retro.blogspot.ca
2011 Moto Guzzi V7 Racer |
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whyoldbill Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 12 Jun 2006 Posts: 440 Location: in the boonies, northwest of Columbus, Ohio
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Posted: Thu Aug 05, 2010 12:48 pm Post subject: |
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| rbm wrote: | | In any case, over-fusing the motor circuit and over-specing the relays will cure this problem. |
I respectfully disagree. Over-fusing a circuit, any circuit, is playing with fire, literally.
If the load is causing the fuse to blow, the load is the problem, not the fuse. Fix the problem, not the symptom. _________________ '02 - GL1800
The desired effect is what you get when you improve your interplanetary funksmanship - George Clinton |
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Flying Duck PsyKotic Waterfowl

Joined: 27 Jan 2005 Posts: 10102 Location: Bumf***, WA
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Posted: Thu Aug 05, 2010 12:51 pm Post subject: |
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| whyoldbill wrote: | I respectfully disagree. Over-fusing a circuit, any circuit, is playing with fire, literally.
If the load is causing the fuse to blow, the load is the problem, not the fuse. Fix the problem, not the symptom. |
Agreed. As spec'd, fuses already have some added leeway so if you're blowing fuses it's best to cure the problem, not the symptom, especially in the case of fuses. _________________ 93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE |
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rbm Mad Brick Rider

Joined: 02 Jun 2009 Posts: 115 Location: Toronto
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Posted: Thu Aug 05, 2010 6:40 pm Post subject: |
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| whyoldbill wrote: | I respectfully disagree. Over-fusing a circuit, any circuit, is playing with fire, literally.
If the load is causing the fuse to blow, the load is the problem, not the fuse. Fix the problem, not the symptom. |
I appologize for use of the wrong word -- overfusing. I do not condone overfusing any circuit -- putting a fuse in a circuit allowing it to deliver current for which the wire gauge is not designed. What I meant was connecting the motor to a circuit which is designed to deliver more current safely. I don't have a word for that unfortunately.
If it were available, reactive loads should be protected with a fuse that has the proper profile to accomodate the instantaneous startup current. That means slow-blow fuses. I don't believe there are slo-blow fuses made for automotive / motorcycle applications anyways. _________________ - Robert
1987 K75 @k75retro.blogspot.ca
2011 Moto Guzzi V7 Racer |
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Jim Site Admin

Joined: 17 May 2003 Posts: 3841 Location: WHERETHEFUNNEVERENDS
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Posted: Thu Aug 05, 2010 11:26 pm Post subject: |
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I clean and lube the windshield works every spring. I don't use silicone - I use DuPont teflon. I raise and lower the screen as wanted/needed - never had a problem. _________________ Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repaired!
1992 K75RTP 46,000
"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed." |
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whyoldbill Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 12 Jun 2006 Posts: 440 Location: in the boonies, northwest of Columbus, Ohio
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Posted: Thu Aug 05, 2010 11:41 pm Post subject: |
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| rbm wrote: | | connecting the motor to a circuit which is designed to deliver more current safely. |
Now that makes sense! Whew, I'm glad you cleared that up.
| Quote: | | I don't believe there are slo-blow fuses made for automotive / motorcycle applications anyways. |
I haven't looked for them for a long time, but I have purchased automotive slo-blow fuses in the past.
I've just kept my slide rails lubricated and have never had a bit of trouble. _________________ '02 - GL1800
The desired effect is what you get when you improve your interplanetary funksmanship - George Clinton |
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laverda Mad Brick Rider

Joined: 02 Feb 2010 Posts: 90 Location: Scotland
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Posted: Tue Aug 24, 2010 5:15 pm Post subject: |
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| Jim wrote: | I clean and lube the windshield works every spring. I don't use silicone - I use DuPont teflon. | whyoldbill wrote: |
I've just kept my slide rails lubricated and have never had a bit of trouble. |
| How easy is it to lubricate the rails etc... when in situ (With nowt removed). Is it feasible ?
I can't check as my screen, motor, instruments are currently removed from my bike. _________________ "A computer once beat me at chess, but it was no match for me at kick boxing." |
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whyoldbill Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 12 Jun 2006 Posts: 440 Location: in the boonies, northwest of Columbus, Ohio
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Posted: Tue Aug 24, 2010 5:51 pm Post subject: |
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| laverda wrote: | How easy is it to lubricate the rails etc... when in situ (With nowt removed). Is it feasible ?
I can't check as my screen, motor, instruments are currently removed from my bike. |
On my LT, all I do is drop the cover off the back of the fairing, clean the rails with some alcohol, and then just spray some silicone on them. Can't speak for the RS though. _________________ '02 - GL1800
The desired effect is what you get when you improve your interplanetary funksmanship - George Clinton |
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