K11 Owners Group

Phil Marvin · Posted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 8:07 pm Post subject:

Hi, All,
Lubing the clutch pivots is about the only thing I use BMW #10 grease for! It does seem to work reasonably well for that!
_________________
Ride Safe,
Phil Marvin in El Paso, TX
'94 K75A/3
'95 K75RTP

tibbe · Posted: Fri Aug 13, 2010 3:07 am Post subject:

tibbe · Posted: Sat Aug 14, 2010 4:37 am Post subject:

Hmm
Have had a second thought about how to test the clutch mecanism.
If oil comes creeping out of the engine-tranny gap, it's no Q about it tranny and clutch out.

It the hand lever operates as with uneven friction, can be that the wire or the clutch release mechanism need wrenching attention.

It's possible to operate the clutch lever from it's place behind the tranny with a long rod or any creative device. It it moves smooth repace the wire.

Trying to find a procedure to the next step of the checklist w/o taking out the swing, please feel free to add ideas, to check the clutch mekanism. As stucking clutch level mechanism, clutch release bearing. or clutch rod.
If the clutch lever are stucked you have to take out the swing as far as I know to repair it.
On the pro side you do not need to take out the exhaust pipe or mainstand to do this next check.
So out with the swing and the clutch level and the relase bearing and pull out the puch rod behind the release bearing.
If all comes out easily and the rod seems strait and not oily, it seems to be something with the clutch itselves and now you need a bit more time and tools and patient.

Scott_Anderson · Posted: Tue Aug 17, 2010 1:13 pm Post subject:

poetryandmotorbikes · Mad Brick Rider Joined: 17 Sep 2009 Posts: 80

Hi guys,

So I started taking apart the bike today. Got about three quarters of the way to the clutch before the sun set.

A few things that I noticed that I am looking for council on: the starter splines were covered in a great deal of oil. The final drive was full of oil; the splines were wet with it and it had made a horrible mixture out of my Molly lube.

These are really odious signs, and I am quite perturbed by them. Let me know if you have any thoughts of what it could be. No doubt I am dealing with a seal, but whether it's a transmission seal or a clutch seal or both, I have no idea.
_________________
1992 K75S

Motopoeta | Beautiful Vintage Motorcycles Daily

tibbe · Posted: Thu Aug 26, 2010 5:06 am Post subject:

Don't know about the starter but could you please enlighten us about the final drive issue.
There are two splines ( infact 3 ) on the final drive.
- Attaching the wheel, the driveshaft between gearbox and universal joint at the final drive and the universal joint to the final drive.
All 3 should be lubed with grease. Where are the leak.

A Note. please remeber to take out the comleate clutch mekanism from the gearbox before semoviing the greabox from the engine.
Specially the pushrod that runs trough the gearbox.

Good luck

poetryandmotorbikes · Mad Brick Rider Joined: 17 Sep 2009 Posts: 80

poetryandmotorbikes · Mad Brick Rider Joined: 17 Sep 2009 Posts: 80

Anybody have any further thoughts on this?
_________________
1992 K75S

Motopoeta | Beautiful Vintage Motorcycles Daily

tibbe · Posted: Thu Sep 02, 2010 7:06 am Post subject:

Opps.
A Q. guess you are not having a parralevel swing ( with a reaction bar under the swing ) and in that case it's the sealing in the final drive where it's attached to the swing.

I'm not familiar with that final drive but would guess that you could se a sealing at the input shaft. If so you could probably replace it w/o taking the final drive apart.

Stopping here and invite members of this forum who are more familiar with your swing to add comments.

poetryandmotorbikes · Mad Brick Rider Joined: 17 Sep 2009 Posts: 80

Alright, so: oily fingers on a macbook.

Opened up the transmission and the clutch. Clutch has a bunch of oil in it and so does the transmission. I can't tell where a seal would have gone but it doesn't seem to be leaking from where the splines interact as that's quite clean. The oil itself smells foul and a little like cat piss and so I am thinking that it's gear oil rather than engine oil. I also remember smelling this smell occasionally when I was riding it prior to taking it apart.

I am not sure at all how to proceed at this moment in time, so if someone could suggest a few things, I would really appreciate it. I'm sitting in the dirt in the backyard typing this.

Cheers,
_________________
1992 K75S

Motopoeta | Beautiful Vintage Motorcycles Daily

Flying Duck · Posted: Thu Sep 02, 2010 8:23 pm Post subject:

It's one of two seals. It might be the transmission input shaft seal but since there's oil on the clutch that doesn't seem likely.

There's also a small seal at the rear of the clutch pushrod that keeps gear oil from traveling up the pushrod from the boot. I think that may be your culprit as the gear oil will travel up the pushrod and spin off onto the clutch where the pushrod exits the transmission shaft. Check to see if your pushrod is wet with gear oil.

I THINK the part number is 23211451159.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

poetryandmotorbikes · Mad Brick Rider Joined: 17 Sep 2009 Posts: 80

Checked, can't really tell. There's a bit of oil on the pushrod but around where I believe the seal to be, there doesn't seem to be a lot of oil. Should I just replace both seals?
_________________
1992 K75S

Motopoeta | Beautiful Vintage Motorcycles Daily

Jim · Posted: Thu Sep 02, 2010 9:09 pm Post subject:

Replacing seals is usually pretty easy - and they usually don't cost much. It's all the work getting to them that's a pain in the butt.
_________________
Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repaired!
1992 K75RTP 46,000

"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed."

Flying Duck · Posted: Thu Sep 02, 2010 9:19 pm Post subject:

And while you're at it, replace the clutch nut O-ring. Cheap part, easy to replace while you're in there and good "insurance."

My clutch page in the tech stickies has a step-by-step for the O-ring.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

Shoganai · Posted: Thu Sep 02, 2010 10:38 pm Post subject:

Saltcreek · Posted: Fri Sep 03, 2010 8:03 am Post subject:

Boy they don't call you poetry and motorbikes for nothin! I don't have a clue how to help you but I'm enjoying your thread. Those of us who have yet to enter the bowels of the K are pulling for you!
_________________
Jim

1994 K1100LT Mystic Red, bfd, 37000 miles, sold Sad

2009 Wilderness Systems Zephyr 155 ST
2002 Litespeed titanium

poetryandmotorbikes · Mad Brick Rider Joined: 17 Sep 2009 Posts: 80

Man. I've just got a bad case of hubris is all. I don't know half the names of the tools that I am using, I just have this dumb confidence and method that makes me charge in there. Usually it comes out well (yet to do something wrong). But yes, this is ambitious.

Question for the geezers: what kind of solvent should I use to clean a friction plate if its been steeped in oil? I'd really prefer not to buy a new (or old) one.
_________________
1992 K75S

Motopoeta | Beautiful Vintage Motorcycles Daily

poetryandmotorbikes · Mad Brick Rider Joined: 17 Sep 2009 Posts: 80

robleyd · Posted: Sat Sep 04, 2010 8:05 pm Post subject:

Flying Duck · Posted: Sat Sep 04, 2010 8:35 pm Post subject:

Sometimes you can clean them up with brake cleaner. If it's really soaked though you may as well bite the bullet and replace it.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE