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malcolmt Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 23 Apr 2007 Posts: 369 Location: Parys, S.Africa
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Posted: Fri Sep 17, 2010 7:07 am Post subject: Replacing wheel bearings |
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Hi All,
Its time to replace the front wheel bearings in my K11RS. I’ve not done this previously and have a few questions. First of all i read the article at.....
http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech/wheel-bearing-replace.shtml
A couple of issues spring to mind.
Firstly the wife wouldn’t be too happy with me stick the wheel in her oven.
Secondly I doubt the wheel will would fit !!
Thirdly my wheels have been re-painted by a previous owner.
Has anyone successfully used a heat gun to warm the hub area, then it could be done without removing the tyre or buying the wife a bigger oven?
Does anyone have an idea of the temperature that paint can withstand without discolouring? It’s a bit of an obscure question not know the paint brand and type, maybe someone has some guidelines !!
I was thinking of making a “puller” with a drilled disk to fit over the small bearing, threaded bar down the axle hole and a pipe with drilled disk on the hub at the large bearing side to wind it out. Is there any reason this may not work.
Any guidance appreciated
Malcolm(t)
Johannesburg, South Africa _________________ ******************************
A Bike on the road is worth two
in the shed
****************************** |
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wedge Brick Rider
Joined: 01 Mar 2010 Posts: 29 Location: Wisbech, Cambs
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Posted: Fri Sep 17, 2010 7:42 am Post subject: |
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Local heat on a cast wheel is almost never a good idea, crack it and you'll cry.
10 minutes at 400F isn't beyond the scope of plenty of automotive paints but of course you have no idea what he's used. What colour are the wheels? (sounds a stupid question but gloss black will take heat much better than matt aluminium say, plus there's a much higher chance he's used something like tough black which laughs at heat)
Can't picture your method, and dunno if similar to the K75 (which I have) but the problem is getting a purchase between the bearing and spacer.
I've never found heat necessary for putting bearings back in and done several (funnily enough EVERY other bike I've worked on has sufficient clearance around the spacer that it can be pushed to one side. Only BMW would think to deliberately not do this so they can charge you for a tool or send you to the dealer)
Regarding tools, an internal expanding slide hammer should be able to do the job for much less than $190 - something like $50? _________________ Bikes:
93 K75S
93 R1100RS |
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ssray2
Joined: 07 May 2010 Posts: 19 Location: Birmingham, uk
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Posted: Fri Sep 17, 2010 10:26 am Post subject: |
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I use a long fairly blunt screwdriver, Pushed through from the other side of the wheel till it just touches the inside edge of the bearing-now its hammer time, you dont have to give a huge wack-medium,then the opposite side,to allow for the bearing coming out not quite square.
To fit the new ones-put them in a freezer and using a socket that connects with the outside of the bearing-drift into place.
Ray |
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John Clauss Flying Brick Rider

Joined: 04 Apr 2003 Posts: 732 Location: Robesonia, PA
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Posted: Fri Sep 17, 2010 10:40 am Post subject: |
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The wheel without tire should fit. I have done this job 5 or six time. You do NOT want to try a heat gun. The heat is not even enough and you could easily crack the wheel trying.
When I was living in an apartment I did not have an oven big enough. I had a friend that worked in a pizza shop. I went to the shop about 1/2 hour before the opened. We put down empty boxes under the wheel, stuck her in there, and 10 minutes later the bearings were in my hands. _________________ 1997 K1100LT
1975 R75/6
It will bring you so close to nausea, it will make you sick! - Big Al |
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Flying Duck PsyKotic Waterfowl

Joined: 27 Jan 2005 Posts: 10102 Location: Bumf***, WA
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Posted: Fri Sep 17, 2010 11:43 am Post subject: |
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Just curious but why do you want to replace the bearings? Is this preventative maintenance or are your old ones failing? _________________ 93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE |
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malcolmt Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 23 Apr 2007 Posts: 369 Location: Parys, S.Africa
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Posted: Fri Sep 17, 2010 2:21 pm Post subject: |
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Hi All,
Thanks for the advise.
The paint is glossy gold so heat could be an issue.
Thanks a mill for the heatgun warning, its no longer on standby.
When I recently changed the fork seals and bushes I noticed the lsmall wheel bearing is shot yet the large one is 100%. The bike rides OK and at the time I didnt have time to change it, I'd be tempted to replace only the small one.
Over the weekend I'll make up a sketch of the tool I intend to pullthem out with.
Cheers
Malcolm _________________ ******************************
A Bike on the road is worth two
in the shed
****************************** |
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malcolmt Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 23 Apr 2007 Posts: 369 Location: Parys, S.Africa
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Posted: Fri Sep 17, 2010 4:02 pm Post subject: |
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This is a mock up of what I would try to use to extract the wheel bearings out.
1 The locked nuts are at the small bearing side, a socket and T bar will stop the threaded bar turning.
2 The washer (could be made from 5mm plate) fits against the small bearing and gets pulled through with the bearings
3 I’d use a min of 12mm threaded bar
4 The socket ( or piece of tube) sits at the large bearing side, its large enough to allow the large bearing pass inside as they are pulled through.
5 Cranking a ring spanner hopefully pulls the bearing through.
I work with electronics and instruments.. and have a phobia about if in doubt..use a bigger hammer. Plus the large (expensive ) is in 100% condition, I’d prefer to get it out and re-use it !!!
Do you think this could work ????
Malcolm (t) _________________ ******************************
A Bike on the road is worth two
in the shed
****************************** |
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garynali Mad Brick Rider
Joined: 17 Apr 2010 Posts: 79 Location: Hervey Bay, Australia
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Posted: Fri Sep 17, 2010 5:17 pm Post subject: |
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Gday Malcolm
Have done the job on my RS. Was dead easy as follows. Wheel on the bench,
Heat centre lightly with hot air gun,alloy doesn't need lots of heat to expand enough to get the old bearings out.
Using brass drift or your puller design remove bearings,
Warm up centre again, remove new bearings from freezer, fit using appropriate sized tool ( socket ) to drive in the outer race. NB Very important not to load the inner race.
Refit the wheel,
Admire your handiwork over a carton of your favourite brew.
Good luck
Gary C |
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hockeyshifter Flying Brick Rider

Joined: 01 Jan 2006 Posts: 177 Location: harpers ferry WVa.
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Posted: Sat Sep 18, 2010 6:58 pm Post subject: |
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i might be late to this thread.. but additions as follows.. when reinstalling the bearing coat all the contact points with CV joint type grease and pack the dead space inbetween the bearings.. this will keep water and junk out and prevent corrision. and the coating will also help with the installing and removal if you have to do it again. _________________ fix the problem not the blame ; fix what is messed up ; NO one is to blame. |
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malcolmt Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 23 Apr 2007 Posts: 369 Location: Parys, S.Africa
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Posted: Sun Sep 19, 2010 1:36 am Post subject: |
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Thanks for the advise, Its not too late. I'll get the bearings next week and give it a shot one evening and report back. _________________ ******************************
A Bike on the road is worth two
in the shed
****************************** |
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