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No power to fuel pump

 
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mdmgolfr



Joined: 23 Jan 2010
Posts: 7
Location: Cumming, GA

PostPosted: Thu Jan 13, 2011 6:03 pm    Post subject: No power to fuel pump Reply with quote

I have a '93 K1100LT and have been lurking in the shadows learning from your experiences. I bought it in Feb '10 and love it. It ran like a demon but knew that it needed some cosmetic work. I have an issue now and need to plug into your vast knowledge. I went for a ride on Christmas Eve and wound up getting home on the back of a tow truck about 9pm much to the dismay of my better half.

The problem I am having is that the fuel pump will not power up. I have read some of the other postings but can't isolate the problem. I have pulled the pump and hooked it to 12V and it spins. I have traced the wiring from the 4 wire connector to the fuel pump leads and they test out OK. The issue is that when I test the connector on the other side I get no reading from the green/white wire and brown wires when I turn on the ignition. Everything else lights up and it will crank. This would seem to indicate that the pump is not getting voltage. I have swapped out the relays and checked the fuses. Does this mean that the motronic brain is bad? A short in that portion of the wiring harness? I'm struggling as to where to go with this and not just "rip and replace".

I have it in the basement now and have removed the fairings, tank, fuel pump and may be in the process of painting it. Suggestions would be welcomed.

Also, when I ground out the #2 pin it does not display any codes but goes straight into the fan test after about 5 seconds, normal?
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10102
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Thu Jan 13, 2011 6:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Those four lead connector for the fuel tank is a weak spot. Use a voltmeter to see if power is coming out of the fuel pump relay on the green/white wire.
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93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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dwerbil
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 18 Jun 2010
Posts: 224
Location: Round Rock, Tx

PostPosted: Thu Jan 13, 2011 9:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Flying Duck wrote:
Those four lead connector for the fuel tank is a weak spot. Use a voltmeter to see if power is coming out of the fuel pump relay on the green/white wire.


Months ago, I had a similar problem with a non-working fuel pump. Think a search here came up with a fix to rid the tired out fuel pump/tank connector....cut it out and replace it with a common male/female trailer connector. I did, and it fixed it for good.

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93 K1100RS ~ 2004 R1150RT ~ 84 RS ~ 78 R100/7 ~ 65 R60/2
Click for pics
Randy at Round Rock, Texas
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robleyd
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 23 Jul 2009
Posts: 398
Location: Murbko, Australia

PostPosted: Thu Jan 13, 2011 9:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you can find something like http://www.narva.com.au/products/browse/waterproof-connectors-2 in your part of the world, it might be even better.

Local price is around five bucks.
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David, owner of:
1996 K1100 LT
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dave n
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 13 Dec 2003
Posts: 316
Location: Gastonia NC

PostPosted: Fri Jan 14, 2011 1:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

make sure that the kill switch is in run position (damhik)
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Dave Norris KOG 248
1999 Cagiva Gran Canyon
1993 K1100LT w/Hannigan sidecar
2008 Suzuki DR650
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DLBass
Mad Brick Rider


Joined: 29 Jul 2010
Posts: 93
Location: Desborough UK

PostPosted: Fri Jan 14, 2011 6:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sidestand cutout switch fault??
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There is only now, yesterday is gone and is unchangeable, tomorrow is uncertain. Live in the moment.
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mdmgolfr



Joined: 23 Jan 2010
Posts: 7
Location: Cumming, GA

PostPosted: Mon Jan 17, 2011 1:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Still not sure which way to turn, replaced connector with 4 line flat connector, swapped relays repeatedly and still no power to fuel pump. Tested on relay side and no power on green/white and brown wires, there is voltage on the white and yellow side (feeds the fuel level indicator I think).

Suggestions welcome...ECU may be next at $175.
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10102
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Mon Jan 17, 2011 1:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The white wire is for the idiot light in the cluster and the yellow wire is for the fuel gauge.

Did you check the sidestand switch?
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93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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mdmgolfr



Joined: 23 Jan 2010
Posts: 7
Location: Cumming, GA

PostPosted: Mon Jan 17, 2011 1:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sidestand switch is bypassed (2 wires are soldered together).
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10102
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Mon Jan 17, 2011 5:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you checked the fuel pump fuse? (#6)

Check that you have 12V coming into the fuel pump relay on the red/green wire.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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mdmgolfr



Joined: 23 Jan 2010
Posts: 7
Location: Cumming, GA

PostPosted: Mon Jan 17, 2011 6:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rechecked fuse, moved relays around and have 12v coming into red/green. Electronics are so much fun!
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10102
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Mon Jan 17, 2011 9:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

FYI: The fuel pump relay trigger gets power from the kill switch via the sidestand switch on a green/red wire. That should always be hot when the bike is turned on and the kill switch is in the run position.

The relay is triggered by a ground signal from the Motornic via the blue/brown wire. Once it's done the intital one second priming, I'm pretty sure that what then causes the Motronic to trigger the relay is the signal it gets from the Hall Effect sensor to let it know that the engine is turning/running.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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mdmgolfr



Joined: 23 Jan 2010
Posts: 7
Location: Cumming, GA

PostPosted: Wed Jan 19, 2011 3:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So to test that sequence I should be able to temporarily ground the blue/brown wire to complete the circuit and test the pump circuit while bypassing the Motronic?

Is there a way to test the Motronic, can the dealer?
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10102
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Wed Jan 19, 2011 5:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

1) Yes. Also make sure you're getting at the green/red positive trigger wire - use a voltmeter.

2) Not sure but don't think so.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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mdmgolfr



Joined: 23 Jan 2010
Posts: 7
Location: Cumming, GA

PostPosted: Sat Jan 22, 2011 1:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Update...I think I have a short in the wiring harness between the relays and the 4 wire connector. Testing the wires there is continuity of about .5 between green/white at connector and green/red at relay but there is .01 between green/white and brown/blue at relay. Same on the brown to those as well. Know of a cheap wiring harness or should I break it open or just run some new wire from the connector to where it it connects (not sure where that is). Thanks for your help and advice is welcome.
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mdmgolfr



Joined: 23 Jan 2010
Posts: 7
Location: Cumming, GA

PostPosted: Sat Feb 05, 2011 6:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got a used wiring harness and installed it...voila...fuel pump primes like it should. Must have been a short in the harness somewhere.

While I have it in pieces, is there anything I should do before putting it back together? I'm probably going to paint it a dark blue.

I appreciate your help!
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dwerbil
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 18 Jun 2010
Posts: 224
Location: Round Rock, Tx

PostPosted: Sat Feb 05, 2011 6:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good going! The same problem and the same fix for me happened some months ago.
Anytime I have the fuel tank off the bike, I do a look-see around the wiring connections...to be sure things are not getting pinched, damaged, etc.
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93 K1100RS ~ 2004 R1150RT ~ 84 RS ~ 78 R100/7 ~ 65 R60/2
Click for pics
Randy at Round Rock, Texas
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