K11 Owners Group

gpzoduibh · Posted: Mon Jan 28, 2008 6:48 am Post subject: Starter probs

Hi to all
I am having a problem with my starter it spins but wont catch I searched and found two previous threads on the sprag clutch sticking , I think oil for diesel engines is high detergent oil ? could i stick this in and get the cleaning effect ? or should I bite the bullet and pull the box etc. ?whats involved to get to the sprag clutch will I need a lot of new gaskets and seals ? I think the "cush drive" in the box needs looking at anyway .
Regards to all
Bill Black
_________________
1995 Grinnall Scorpion III(1990 K100 16v motor)
2010 KTM 450 EXC
Moto Guzzi V50 powered hovercraft !
1989 K100RS (8V) special edition
1974 Yamaha DT360
1972 Sanglas 400 T
1980 Yamaha XS110-Watsonian Palma sidecar
1966 Bridgestone 175 dualtwin
1980 BMW R100RS
1979 Bultaco sherpa T 350
1979 Yamaha DT175MX
1990 Honda XR250R

Shoganai · Posted: Mon Jan 28, 2008 8:40 am Post subject:

Try here

http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech/starter-cleaning/starter-cleaning.shtml

http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech/starter-cleaning2.shtml

http://skylands.ibmwr.org/tom/tech/starter.html

http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech/starter-magnet-probs.shtml
_________________
1993 K1100RS aka The Shop Whore
1994 K1100RS aka Blue Streak

The long road is a rainbow and the pot of gold lies there.
So slip the chain and I'm off again,
You'll find me everywhere. I'm a Rover. - JT

Nana korobi ya oki

gpzoduibh · Posted: Mon Jan 28, 2008 8:51 am Post subject:

Thanks for the strip and clean links but its the starter clutch thats acting up on mine .
Regards
Bill Black
_________________
1995 Grinnall Scorpion III(1990 K100 16v motor)
2010 KTM 450 EXC
Moto Guzzi V50 powered hovercraft !
1989 K100RS (8V) special edition
1974 Yamaha DT360
1972 Sanglas 400 T
1980 Yamaha XS110-Watsonian Palma sidecar
1966 Bridgestone 175 dualtwin
1980 BMW R100RS
1979 Bultaco sherpa T 350
1979 Yamaha DT175MX
1990 Honda XR250R

Phil Marvin · Posted: Tue Jan 29, 2008 2:45 pm Post subject:

Hi, Bill,
The method I read was to add a can of proprietary engine cleaner (Rislone, I think, was the brand mentioned), run it for, maybe, 50 miles, drain it and change the filter, and fill with a good oil of the proper viscocity. To get it to start, put it in gear and push it a little to reposition the engine with respect to the starter actuation. The engine cleaner may clean it enough to remove the deposits. If not, it is a major teardown. Ask Paddy in Bray; he may be able to tell you something different, easier, etc. If you talk to him, give him my regards.

It has been a long time since I lived in Ireland, so I no longer remember the auto parts stores nor what products they might carry. But an engine flush/engine cleaner product should work. Good Luck!

Ride Safe,
_________________
Ride Safe,
Phil Marvin in El Paso, TX
'94 K75A/3
'95 K75RTP

Flying Duck · Posted: Tue Jan 29, 2008 5:27 pm Post subject:

As a temporoary fix when you need to start it, I've heard that putting the bike in gear and rolling it backwards before trying to start it will engage the sprag.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

duckbubbles · Posted: Tue Jan 29, 2008 9:22 pm Post subject:

Don Sproule · Posted: Wed Jan 30, 2008 12:21 am Post subject: starter probs

Hey Bill,
I was having a similar problem about 17 years ago on my K100RS. It only happened when I was using 20W50 dino oil. I switched to Amsoil full synth 10W40 and it never re-occured. I ran 10W40 for most of the time I owned the bike. It seemed to keep the engine very clean and sludge-free.

Don Sproule

gpzoduibh · Posted: Wed Jan 30, 2008 6:55 am Post subject:

Thanks for all the info lads ,
pardon my ignorance but what is dino oil ? is it just mineral oil ? or is it a make of oil in the States ?
The motor is a 16v 1991 K1 engine in the scorpion and the transmission has had a hard time , I've already replaced a broken driveshaft so maybe I'd be as well to pull the box and give it a coat of looking over , to get to the sprague clutch what gaskets seals etc. are needed on the rebuild ?
Regards
Bill
_________________
1995 Grinnall Scorpion III(1990 K100 16v motor)
2010 KTM 450 EXC
Moto Guzzi V50 powered hovercraft !
1989 K100RS (8V) special edition
1974 Yamaha DT360
1972 Sanglas 400 T
1980 Yamaha XS110-Watsonian Palma sidecar
1966 Bridgestone 175 dualtwin
1980 BMW R100RS
1979 Bultaco sherpa T 350
1979 Yamaha DT175MX
1990 Honda XR250R

Off the grid · Posted: Wed Jan 30, 2008 7:07 am Post subject:

Dino oil= the old stuff.
Synthetic oil=the new stuff.
_________________
Bane of your existence since July 2006
2007 Triumph Tiger ABS. "Sabertooth"
2009 Husqvarna TE610. "The dirty Italian mistress"

gpzoduibh · Posted: Wed Jan 30, 2008 9:23 am Post subject:

As in dinosaur ?
_________________
1995 Grinnall Scorpion III(1990 K100 16v motor)
2010 KTM 450 EXC
Moto Guzzi V50 powered hovercraft !
1989 K100RS (8V) special edition
1974 Yamaha DT360
1972 Sanglas 400 T
1980 Yamaha XS110-Watsonian Palma sidecar
1966 Bridgestone 175 dualtwin
1980 BMW R100RS
1979 Bultaco sherpa T 350
1979 Yamaha DT175MX
1990 Honda XR250R

Phil Marvin · Posted: Wed Jan 30, 2008 11:58 am Post subject:

Hi, Bill,
Yes, dino oil is short for squashed dinosaurs, the alternative to the newer, more modern, synthetic oil. A good dino oil should work fine if you change it more often. I use Mobil 1 15w50 synthetic in my K75 and used it for many tens of thousands of miles in my K1100LT's, change oil every year or 10k miles (whichever comes first) and have never had any oil related problems.
Ride Safe,
_________________
Ride Safe,
Phil Marvin in El Paso, TX
'94 K75A/3
'95 K75RTP

Jimmyd · Posted: Sat Oct 15, 2011 9:01 pm Post subject:

whyoldbill · Posted: Sun Oct 16, 2011 1:33 am Post subject:

Jimmyd · Posted: Mon Nov 28, 2011 9:33 pm Post subject:

ol-Levi · Posted: Fri Aug 10, 2012 12:24 pm Post subject:

I'm gonna relate this just in case somebody else gets into this:

I had the started start to REALLY drag (work slowly) on the return of a Black Sheep ride. Well it WAS 105 degrees F (40.5C). I expected that the heat and that of the engine had pushed the starter to the limit.

Well, later checked (hate to have to move motronic and battery clamp to get there) fluid level. It was 3/8 (10mm) BELOW the top of the plates.

Re-fill with distilled h2o.

Later, still having problems with getting starter to run. Took into it to clean up the starter motor. (Had to R&R, [remove and replace]; radiator overflow bottle, motronic, battery, ABS pump, battery box, & wires) (and r&r rear brake line, then bleed the brakes after.)

Tried to start,
CLICK,
Wouldn't engage.

I expected that the battery had failed.
Several days getting a new battery, fill it, charge it.
still CLICK.

Wonder, is my sears charger not working? Is there something draining the battery? Is the alternator failing?

Tried jumping starter lead to ground (don't try to start now).
Well this causes the headlight to come on again. (Gets a relay return via the starter windings.)

Starter again? Did I get some oil on the communtator? Is some other thing busted?

Take it all apart again (I'm getting too old for this stuff).
Bottle, motronic, battery, battery box, wires.

Dismember the starter, something had foiled the communtator.
???
Looked at the brushes, one looks like it is too short.
Try it with a small spacer to extend it (temporary fix).
(Used a 1/16 (1mm) bit of hardwood under the spring.)

Now put it ALL back together.

IT WORKS!!!

Now (or pretty soon) I need to set about getting new brushes, or new starter.

But it WORKS, just took a 30 mile ride to see how things are working.
(It's good to be out again, it is about 70F (20C) today!)

(And now I have an extra battery too)
_________________
97 K1100LT le (Kaw lady) with 119,000 miles.

Number 6 · Posted: Sat Aug 11, 2012 12:09 am Post subject:

One way to deal with it is to add gasoil in the oil and run the engine for a good 20 minutes, at different RPM but avoid riding hard. It should clean it but if the springs are dead it won't help.
_________________
I am not a number, I am a free man.

94 K1100LT

Mike d · Posted: Sun Aug 12, 2012 1:33 pm Post subject:

Ernie-NH · Posted: Sun Aug 12, 2012 10:01 pm Post subject:

Hi all...

I'm with Mike on the " just remove the coils" and it IS a bit fiddly as he says, BUT when I removed my starter to overhaul it, I could NOT BELIEVE the extent and amount os sheer crud that was inside/around/and throughout the starter assembly and mechanism itself !! I was amazed that it even rotated. As it turned out for me, there was nothing wrong with the starter that a thorough cleaning did not take care of. In fact, it was amazing how quickly and responsively it behave after that relatively simple job !

Good luck with yours.....// Ernie in NH
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AMA,, American Deaf Bikers
Airhead Beemers Club
'11 G650gs
'95 K1100LT
'76 R100/7

Number 6 · Posted: Mon Aug 13, 2012 1:10 am Post subject:

The starter yes, but the starter free wheel is much more difficult to access, you have to remove tranny and more...
_________________
I am not a number, I am a free man.

94 K1100LT

Ernie-NH · Posted: Mon Aug 13, 2012 5:52 pm Post subject:

Hi all...

Yes "6",, so it is. I took only the starter body itself.

Best regards...........// Ernie in NH
_________________
AMA,, American Deaf Bikers
Airhead Beemers Club
'11 G650gs
'95 K1100LT
'76 R100/7