K11 Owners Group

[omarsbuddy]

Here's a link to the post I originally made explaining the gist of my ABS problems, and what caused them:

http://www.k11og.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10923

Believing that the ABS control unit (or, Hydro unit, if you prefer . . . ) is the ONLY component that influences the operation of the ABS brake system, and having been given the news that there was "no communication" with the ABS brain when Motohio had the bike hooked up to their computer, I purchased an ABS control unit on eBay.

I installed the control unit last Saturday. Many many thanks to Whyoldbill for showing up at a moment's notice with his neat little electric vacuum pump. We had the brakes bled in about 15 minutes! THANKS, BILL!

Now, the problem(s):

When I turn the ignition on, I get alternating flashing ABS lights. Battery is at 13.5 volts. (Brand new battery)

When I run the Motronic codes, I get code 1133. According to one of the troubleshooting links posted by bmwmick, code 1133 indicates no signal from Hall Sensor #2. The link also indicates that codes 1122 and 1133 can be "spurious" in nature, and if I'm NOT diagnosing a "no start" problem, I should crank the engine for a few seconds, and the codes should clear. They DON'T! With the ignition on, the ABS lights flash alternately. When I hold down the ABS switch, the left light goes out, and the right one stays on solid. When I release the switch, both the lights stay on solid. I performed this exercise 10-15 times with the same results.

When I try to extract the ABS codes (ground wire to pin #2 and ignition on) I get nothing . . . absolutely nothing. The temp light just stays on. Pressing the ABS switch also has no effect.

I switched out the Motronic unit with a known good one, and got the same results.

So, guys . . . I need some help/advice. I WANT this ABS to work, and by-passing/eliminating/removing/unhooking the system is NOT an option I will consider. I WILL get this thing sorted out, but I need some help.

Thanks, guys.
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Scot
'95 K1100LT

[Tiff]

I've successfully repaired quite a few BMW ABS systems now, and a few times put them back to the way they should be after they had been disconnected due to faults. easiest thing to start with is NOT to push the start button straight away after turning on the ignition- let the lights alternate for a few cycles, then start the bike and ride forward a few metres to let the ABS "self test" From what you describe, the system is OK up until this point.

Don't worry about code 1133. I was getting that constantly and it's obvious the hall sensor was working as it was running on all 4. It will clear when all the other codes are cleared.

Make sure the wire into the rear of the multiplug on pin 2 is connected ad getting a good contact- twice I've been led up the garden path with this, before noticing the wire had broken off from the rear of the plug...

[omarsbuddy]

[Tiff]

Sorry- sped read before replying :oops - you need to be able to reset before going any further- I don't thing there will be any issues with the relay to get as far as you have- connections into connectors have caused me so many issues with older BMW's so far this would be my first port of call. It can take a few goes to get the reset to work. I spent over an hour before I noticed the broken wire on the last R1100RS I did- and that was after a new front sensor, reshim,refit original hoses, replacing ABS warning light bulbs and a full system bleed and repair of wiring ( someone had replaced the whole lot with braided hoses etc to do away with the ABS because the front sensor wire had rubbed through on the tyre under the mudguard- was easier and cheaper to repair the original problem!!)

[omarsbuddy]

OK, I checked the wire to the 3-way plug, and it's secure. I still think there's a "communication" problem, because when I ground pin #2 to extract the ABS codes, I get nothing. The temp light just stays on. Pressing the ABS switch also does nothing.

One thing I ran into this morning: while the light is flashing the 1133 code, if I hold down the ABS switch for 10 seconds or so, let up, then connect the wire to the #1 pin for 5 seconds and un-connect, I get an 1122 code. Then, if I re-connect and un-connect the wire again, I get a series of long flases (about 2 seconds each) that just keeps going until I turn off the ignition. I counted 20 long flashes before I gave up and turned off the ignition. Then, when I turn it back on, the whole scenario starts all over again.
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Scot
'95 K1100LT

[Tiff]

As far as I know , the temp light is only to show Motronic faults, and the ABS needs a seperate LED connected up to flash up the fault codes. These are 2 completely seperate systems and work independently.I was getting the long flashes too,which I believe is 0000, no further fault found- after then next grounding of the wire it came up 4444 which is the one you want! Don't switch off the ignition between grounding the wires to run through all the stored codes. Once it has read out all the codes, take out fuse 5 for a few moments then recheck, and hope for 4444.

The only way I could get the ABS to reset on one K was to hold the ABS switch down before turning on the ignition, then just waiting until one of the lights went out. I think the tides and the phase of the moon may be involved somewhere too

Have a read through this too, it may be another way round it...
http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30942&highlight=abs+reset


The center, number 2, pin is where the fault codes are indicated. This pin has about 0.5 to 0.75 volts on it with the bike shut off. When the ignition is turned on, the voltage rises to about 10 volts. When all is well, it stays at 10 volts. However, if there is a fault, it drops towards zero (pulses) in a periodic manner. When there is a fault, every so often, the voltage pulses downwards toward 0 volts. The number of pulses, indicates the fault number. In other words, if it pulses downwards 4 times, that indicates that there is a problem with the fault code number 4 items. The pulsing also occurs when the ignition is first turned on and the voltage is rising to ~10 volts, but it is easier to spot when it occurs periodically later. I was able to see the pulses easily using an analog meter. It can also be seen using a digital meter. There is not enough current available to light a light. I tried.

[omarsbuddy]

Okay . . . whyoldbill & I got busy yesterday, and pretty much ran into a brick wall. We were able to pull the ABS fault code. We got 8 flashes, which translates to "external influence or wheel sensor gap incorrect." Well, the wheels have not been touched (except for cleaning) since I bought the bike 4 months ago. SO . . . naturally, my next question would be . . . what next? External influence??? WTF???

Any ideas?


edit: we tried, numerous times, to reset (get rid of) the code . . . to no avail.
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Scot
'95 K1100LT

[Jim]

You did check the sensor gap, right?
_________________
Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repaired!
1992 K75RTP 46,000

"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed."

[omarsbuddy]

[Jim]

Sorry - forgot about the short...
_________________
Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repaired!
1992 K75RTP 46,000

"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed."

[omarsbuddy]

[Scott_Anderson]

Scot, I feel your frustration. I am having a similar issue with my '00 K2500 Chevy pickup.
The ABS system is messed up and I've narrowed it down to the electronic controller. I've replaced both sensors and checked wiring and connections but the controller still doesn't see them and thus won't pass it's self test.
Not to mention it's an uncommon abs controller with very few available in salvage yard domains. So I'm going without it for now. Unplugged everything so my dash lights are NOT staring me in the face all the time.
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Ride safe.



1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)

[omarsbuddy]

I know whatcha mean about the dash lights staring you in the face. I've put electrical tape over my dash lights, but that doesn't do much good at night. They bug the hell outta me after dark, cuz I can still see the red glow around the perimeter of the tape.
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Scot
'95 K1100LT

[BobZ(IL)]

If you don't ride snow I'm not sure why you need ABS anyway. I rode downhill in the dirt once on mine and determined ABS was not for me.
_________________
'93 K1100LT
'78 R100S
'05 R1200GS
BMWMOA, CRBMWOA, ABC, K11OG #997

Live well, do good work, enjoy the ride.

[omarsbuddy]

[Tiff]

I still think you need to concentrate on re- setting the system- it can be a real pain and you need to try all options. Check the cable you use to reset has continuity all the way to the ABS unit, check your switch is working correctly, check you are using a GOOD earth to reset. On all the ABS2 systems I've worked on, it has never been as easy as they say in the manual!

[whyoldbill]

[Mystic Red]

[omarsbuddy]

[Fifth Horseman]

If the unit was not off the exact same model bike you probably will get an error on power-up as you seem to be. (From memory, the ebay listing you used quoted two different models for the ABS unit you bought). The ABS wiring loom contains coded links on the brain plug which are different for different bikes.
Within this http://www.largiader.com/abs/absfault.html is a table which shows the links for the various models to which the ABS2 was fitted.
In case you haven't found it, a wiring diagram for ABS2 can be found at http://k-technik.pytalhost.com/pdf/ABS2web.pdf


[Edited to correct web link error]
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'99 K11LT