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Thedodge Brick Rider
Joined: 28 Apr 2011 Posts: 33 Location: Old Isleworth, middx, West london, England.
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Posted: Wed May 02, 2012 5:46 pm Post subject: Oiled Clutch. |
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Does anyone out there have a link or links to posts relating to clutch replacement on a late K11LT. I would like to read a few before i carry out the work. I am also keen to find out about other things that can be checked/replaced whilst the bike is disassembled ( i read somewhere that there are cush drive rubbers in the alternator which may need to be replaced for example) Also, a list of necessary parts to carry out the work would be very helpful. Thanks in anticipation. _________________ K1100 lt 97' |
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robleyd Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 23 Jul 2009 Posts: 398 Location: Murbko, Australia
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Tiff Brick Rider
Joined: 02 Mar 2012 Posts: 47 Location: auchtermuchty
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Posted: Thu May 03, 2012 12:47 pm Post subject: |
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I've been on a high the past week, booked my tunnel tickets for our European tour, fitted an autocom, new brakes all round, charging sockets all sorted, IPod dock, sat nav the lot. Today on the way to work I pulled out to overtake a car, and the rev counter accelerated faster than the speedo. this happened a few more times, so at work I checked and double checked the adjustment. Realised that my cup half full approach wasn't going to make it go away, and accepted that the small amount of oil coming out of the bottom of the box was the cause. There goes some of my hard saved holiday money.
What do you guys change when going in that deep? Bear in mind it's my daily transport, so has to be done in a day. |
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Finn Brick Rider

Joined: 26 Dec 2011 Posts: 39 Location: Finland
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Posted: Thu May 03, 2012 1:48 pm Post subject: |
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When my earlier K1100RS did the same the whole clutch kit was changed as a kit. Only after dismounting everything will you see if the flywheel is OK. Also the reason ie. rear main sealing was changed while at it. It is a big job - at least from this layman's point of view.
 _________________ K1100LT -93 | ex K1100LT/SE -94 |
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Tiff Brick Rider
Joined: 02 Mar 2012 Posts: 47 Location: auchtermuchty
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Posted: Sat May 05, 2012 8:06 pm Post subject: |
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Well, I've popped my K clutch cherry, all done and dusted in a day, but what a pain in the a$$
It was the original clutch that was taken out, at 108,000 miles, and almost at the rivets, so glad it went now rather than in the Alps! Just changed the plate and O ring, everything else was fine and within spec. Fitted a new gear indicator, and reinforced the exhaust whilst I was in there. |
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Finn Brick Rider

Joined: 26 Dec 2011 Posts: 39 Location: Finland
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Posted: Sun May 06, 2012 11:56 am Post subject: |
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Did it look "well-oiled" inside as mine did?
 _________________ K1100LT -93 | ex K1100LT/SE -94 |
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Tiff Brick Rider
Joined: 02 Mar 2012 Posts: 47 Location: auchtermuchty
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Posted: Mon May 07, 2012 7:40 am Post subject: |
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| Finn wrote: | Did it look "well-oiled" inside as mine did?
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Yep, pretty much identical! |
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Shoganai Biscuit Fluffer

Joined: 27 Apr 2005 Posts: 2234 Location: Culpeper,VA
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Tiff Brick Rider
Joined: 02 Mar 2012 Posts: 47 Location: auchtermuchty
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Posted: Tue May 08, 2012 5:26 pm Post subject: |
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Great writeup and pics! You removed a lot more than me, I worked around the ABS, starter and alternator. Is the RS any different in here? |
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Shoganai Biscuit Fluffer

Joined: 27 Apr 2005 Posts: 2234 Location: Culpeper,VA
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Posted: Tue May 08, 2012 6:14 pm Post subject: |
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I find it easier to get stuff out of the way than spend time fighting with it.
It may be different.
I know working on Smithy's bike was MUCH harder than my RS. _________________ 1993 K1100RS aka The Shop Whore
1994 K1100RS aka Blue Streak
The long road is a rainbow and the pot of gold lies there.
So slip the chain and I'm off again,
You'll find me everywhere. I'm a Rover. - JT
Nana korobi ya oki |
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Rafal Flying Brick Rider

Joined: 05 Jan 2009 Posts: 257 Location: Wroclaw, Poland
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Posted: Fri May 11, 2012 7:37 am Post subject: |
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Hello!
I have been looking at photos in this thread and have a question.
Is that normal wear of clutch plate and dirt deposed or it is oiled?
The thing is that the bike has over 60 000 miles. There were no sign of clutch slipping, and dyno run shows only small drop in power and torque relative to factory data.
Best regards, _________________ Rafal
K1100RS is a real beast (in Marrakesh Red)
K75S is a real beauty - she has gone , but not to far .
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Shoganai Biscuit Fluffer

Joined: 27 Apr 2005 Posts: 2234 Location: Culpeper,VA
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Posted: Fri May 11, 2012 9:09 am Post subject: |
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I could not save your picture to my computer so that I could magnify it for closer inspection so I don't know what you are referring to 'wear'.
What you have pictured is not the clutch plate, but the clutch housing.
The clutch plate is sandwiched between the pressure plate and the housing cover.
As for what looks like oil, no, that is not as it should be.
Oil would indicate a rear main seal failure/leak.
| Rafal wrote: | Hello!
I have been looking at photos in this thread and have a question.
Is that normal wear of clutch plate and dirt deposed or it is oiled?
The thing is that the bike has over 60 000 miles. There were no sign of clutch slipping, and dyno run shows only small drop in power and torque relative to factory data.
Best regards, |
_________________ 1993 K1100RS aka The Shop Whore
1994 K1100RS aka Blue Streak
The long road is a rainbow and the pot of gold lies there.
So slip the chain and I'm off again,
You'll find me everywhere. I'm a Rover. - JT
Nana korobi ya oki |
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micky77 Brick Rider
Joined: 05 Jun 2007 Posts: 25 Location: Fort Collins, Co
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Posted: Mon Jun 04, 2012 12:04 am Post subject: Well "crap" - oil out the weep hole again |
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Replaced clutch, o-ring, seal etc about 500 miles ago and noticed new oil leaking out the weap hole tonite. Damn I hate to "do it again". Wonder what I did wrong? Any experienced thought appreciated.
Its gonna be a long hot summer.  |
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Rafal Flying Brick Rider

Joined: 05 Jan 2009 Posts: 257 Location: Wroclaw, Poland
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Posted: Mon Jun 04, 2012 2:17 am Post subject: |
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| Shoganai wrote: |
What you have pictured is not the clutch plate, but the clutch housing.
The clutch plate is sandwiched between the pressure plate and the housing cover.
As for what looks like oil, no, that is not as it should be.
Oil would indicate a rear main seal failure/leak.
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You are 100% correct, I was not precise in my text.
I was not sure about failure, yet I was there so I replaced the seal.
Main shaft seal was installed 0.5 mm "higher" using special made drift. Now I am just looking at weep hole at clutch housing.
Best regards |
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Number 6 Flying Brick Rider

Joined: 05 Feb 2011 Posts: 481 Location: Paris area, France
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Posted: Mon Jun 04, 2012 10:44 am Post subject: Re: Well "crap" - oil out the weep hole again |
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| micky77 wrote: | Replaced clutch, o-ring, seal etc about 500 miles ago and noticed new oil leaking out the weap hole tonite. Damn I hate to "do it again". Wonder what I did wrong? Any experienced thought appreciated.
Its gonna be a long hot summer.  |
Did you find where is oil is coming from first? Not necessarily the engine, can also be the gearbox. When you remove the gearbox, you should change the gearbox seals (except the lever one on the side) including the small one around the rod. _________________ I am not a number, I am a free man.
94 K1100LT |
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micky77 Brick Rider
Joined: 05 Jun 2007 Posts: 25 Location: Fort Collins, Co
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Posted: Sun Jun 17, 2012 12:01 am Post subject: Oil dripping out bell housing (again) |
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So, I tore into the bike again to figure out where oil organiation is - as I took off boot for clutch depression rod at the back end of the transmittion, a bunch more oil came out. The face of the transmisttion housing looked reasonable, so I think my issue is the seal on the clutch rod. Should there be tranny oil in the rod cup chamber? I am a little confused on the path the tranny oil is taking to get to the clutch area?
Any feedback appreciated. |
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Scott_Anderson Site Admin
Joined: 05 Sep 2006 Posts: 3122 Location: Central Iowa, USA
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Posted: Sun Jun 17, 2012 6:51 am Post subject: |
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Yes, you should have some oil inside that boot to lubricate the bearing plate that pushes the pushrod.
The O-ring on the pushrod is what is supposed to prevent the oil from migrating up(forward) to the clutch plate. _________________ Ride safe.
1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold) |
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micky77 Brick Rider
Joined: 05 Jun 2007 Posts: 25 Location: Fort Collins, Co
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Posted: Sun Jun 17, 2012 2:24 pm Post subject: O-ring bad on push rod |
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| So, how does one remove the O-ring and install a new on. Is there a way for oil that lubs the push rod bearing drains back to tranny basin? |
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Inge K. Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 30 Apr 2011 Posts: 458 Location: Norway
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Posted: Sun Jun 17, 2012 2:34 pm Post subject: |
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It`s always easier for the understanding,,,with a picture.......and it`s not a O-ring.
Inge K. |
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Scott_Anderson Site Admin
Joined: 05 Sep 2006 Posts: 3122 Location: Central Iowa, USA
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Posted: Sun Jun 17, 2012 4:40 pm Post subject: |
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Inge, thanks for the clarification.
I guess that also explaines why the seal is located on the trans input shaft diagram, and not part of the clutch control diagram.
part # for the seal: 23 21 1 451 159
Micky77, as far as the quantity of oil inside the boot, there should be some, but not a whole lot.
I'd think that if it's full and leaking on the ground you may have excessive wear of the piston(23 13 1 464 167) allowing too much oil to seep past the piston into the boot. _________________ Ride safe.
1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold) |
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