K11 Owners Group

[kbikeman]

Hello,

I have been lurking for quite a while, and have owned BMW bikes since the mid-80's. I am in the process of a trans spline lube and a reseal on my rear diff for my 1993 K1100LT. In removing the two counter sunk allen head rotor retaining screws, I stripped one of them out. Being the wanna be master mechanic in my dreams , I thought I would drill the broken screw out. Will I did, and broke a tap in the bolt hole trying to clean the debris out. The tap is now flush with the flange of the crown gear. Double grrrrr!

My question is, can I run just one rotor retaining screw? Or do I need to bring the rear drive to a machinist to have them remove the broken tap and install a helicoil? It looks like the rotor sits in a flange, and the retaining screws hold the rotor to the diff with the wheel bolts providing the vast majority of the retaining force.

Your thoughts are appreciated!

Thanks!

Vince

1993 K1100LT on my lift

[Scott_Anderson]

Do the crown gear holes go all the way thru the gear?
I'm guessing that they probably do not, that there is actually a bottom to the hole.
Where I'm going here is if you leave it as is, will you leak oil thru the broken bolt hole.
I've not had a rear disk off, so I don't know if the holes are thru to the oil cavity.
_________________
Ride safe.



1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)

[blue95lt]

You may be able (since you are a master mechanic shade tree type and all)to take a small hard punch to break the tap,they are brittle,and remove it.If it is big enough like an m 5 or 6 diameter.
Good luck. Keith
_________________
1995 k1100lt daily ride(22953)when I got it
1982 cb650sc blue nighthawk (38000)(crashed)
1974 kz400(sold to get nighthawk)

[onebiglake]

Got an Acetylene torch, heat it and blow it out. Of course need a new seal. I just broke both of mine off, tried drilling and then blew them with the torch. Not as hard as it sounds, they heat up fast and turn to mush. Question, why do they come out so hard? Answer (NOW I KNOW), because they have the equivalent of loctite red and the steel around them needs to get to 500 degrees before it releases. Next time, put your torch tip down into the center to hit only steel cover (not the bolt, not the brake disc, and in about 10 seconds, they will spin right out. Magic (na, just gotta get it hot enough). I use a non oxidizing flame (double blue flame) with the smallest tip to make it hot fast right next to the screw (heating the screw red hot from the top of the screw doesn’t do it – don’t ask me why I know) in the one area without cutting into the steel. WHY DO THEY USE THE EQUIVALENT TO LOCTITE RED - BECAUSE YOUR BRAKE DISC CAN GET REALLY HOT WITH HEAVY BRAKING AND THEY DON’T WANT THE SCREWS RELEASING.
_________________
there are careless riders and there are experienced riders, but there are no careless experienced riders

[dave n]

Reassemble dry with no loc-tite ; with the wheel bolted on that disc is NOT coming loose.
_________________
Dave Norris KOG 248
1999 Cagiva Gran Canyon
1993 K1100LT w/Hannigan sidecar
2008 Suzuki DR650