K11 Owners Group

grant93 · Posted: Wed Apr 17, 2013 5:22 am Post subject: ABS sensor gap?

Gidday,

While I am still waiting for my new speedo housing to arrive from Germany I am having a play around with the non working ABS and btw my bike has ABS 2.

How close and what gap should I have at the sensors set at, I have a few shims handy and should I clean or buff up the metal grooved rim that the sensor reads as it looks a little brown and tarnished? would this affect the sensors ability to take a reading?

I have power to both the front and rear sensors.
_________________
Cheers Grant

1994 K1100RS
1981 R100RS
1978 R100RS
1928 Chevrolet tourer

www.montythe1928chevrolet.blogspot.com.au

Mike d · Posted: Wed Apr 17, 2013 5:58 am Post subject:

According to my BMW Manual:

Front ABS Gap 0.5mm - 0.55mm (up to 1996)
Rear ABS Gap 0.6mm - 0.65mm (Up to 1996)

Unless the ring has surface rust, thus reding the gap, I wouldn't have thought tarnishing would be a problem.

Mike

Niemand · Posted: Wed Apr 17, 2013 5:57 pm Post subject:

Yep, those are the same gap measurements printed on the yellow stickers by each caliper on my '94 RS.

I've had good luck using the feeler gauges that came with the original tool kit to set them. (I recall you mentioning in another post you were missing the tools, however.) Obviously just about any would work.

On the rear I can set the spacing fairly well with one shim in place using a little cheat. Put the appropriate gauge in place by the sensor prior to tightening the front-most caliper mount bolt, then press the caliper down and tighten. Depending on your gauge, you may have to rotate the wheel to free your tool from the caliper and ABS wheel when finished. The front on mine is two shims if I recall. No issues here so far with that method.

And I agree about the ring tarnish probably not being and issue. Chunky bits of rust or corrosion fudging with the gap...perhaps.
_________________
Niemand

1994 K1100RS
2023 DR650SE

grant93 · Posted: Wed Apr 17, 2013 6:31 pm Post subject:

Gidday,

Thanks for the info, just double checking things as I go.

Front is now set correctly, will do the rear one tonight..

Also while I had my front wheel slightly jacked off the ground this morning to adjust the abs sensor, I went to spin the front wheel prior to installing the sensor tightly and I noticed the wheel does not move freely, it requires a little force on my behave to make it spin, is this normal for a K??

I've never had a bike with ABS before and I remember my old R100RS front wheel spun much more freely so is this non "free" rotating wheel normal?

Maybe I should just remove the wheel, check things out and re-tighten the axle nut to specs, but I thought I should ask first to point me in the right direction...

Just a "K" newbie slowly sorting things out!
_________________
Cheers Grant

1994 K1100RS
1981 R100RS
1978 R100RS
1928 Chevrolet tourer

www.montythe1928chevrolet.blogspot.com.au

whyoldbill · Posted: Wed Apr 17, 2013 6:42 pm Post subject:

Grant,
I would pull the brake calipers off the rotors first and try spinning the wheel again. If it spins, you may need to either rebuild the calipers or at least flush the brake fluid from all of the brake lines.
If it still doesn't spin freely, pull the axle and have a look at the wheel bearings.

Regards,
Bill
_________________
'02 - GL1800

The desired effect is what you get when you improve your interplanetary funksmanship - George Clinton

grant93 · Posted: Wed Apr 17, 2013 7:14 pm Post subject:

Gidday Bill,

Thanks mate, that gives me a place to start..

Don't get me wrong, the wheel does spin around, but pulls up very quickly once I stop turning it with my hand, it just feels a little tight to me.

Will give it a go and let you know what I find.

Thanks
_________________
Cheers Grant

1994 K1100RS
1981 R100RS
1978 R100RS
1928 Chevrolet tourer

www.montythe1928chevrolet.blogspot.com.au

whyoldbill · Posted: Wed Apr 17, 2013 7:23 pm Post subject:

I'll bet a cold beer the brake calipers are hanging a bit. If you rode it about a mile or so without touching the front brake, the rotors would be too hot to touch, I'm guessing... Good thing you found it now.
_________________
'02 - GL1800

The desired effect is what you get when you improve your interplanetary funksmanship - George Clinton

Jim · Posted: Wed Apr 17, 2013 10:58 pm Post subject:

Much more likely the brakes than the bearings.

Remember that disk brakes don't return like drum brakes...
_________________
Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repaired!
1992 K75RTP 46,000

"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed."

pegasus · Posted: Thu Apr 18, 2013 8:13 pm Post subject: K11 RS frpnt caliper overhaul

Grant,

It's not a huge job to overhaul the front brake calipers. Have a look at
http://www.motobins.co.uk/bmw-parts.php?model=K%20Series

23308
Part No.23308
BMW Part No.
34 11 2 331 631
OVERHAUL KIT FRONT ALL K 16 VALVE & 4 PISTON CALIPERS (INCLUDES PISTONS)
CALIPERS STAMPED BREMBO
NOT BMW EVO each......

£43.50 ex VAT
(£52.20 inc VAT)
Qty ADD to cart
or ADD to wishlist
23290
Part No.23290
INTERNAL `O` RING 4 PISTON CALIPER *EACH*
(EARLY BREMBO CALIPERS ONLY NOT EVO)

£1.00 ex VAT
(£1.20 inc VAT)
Qty

cheers,

Andrew

robleyd · Posted: Fri Apr 19, 2013 8:31 am Post subject:

Locally you can try http://www.munichmotorcycles.com.au - for values of locally that include WA, They may or may not be as cheap...
_________________
David, owner of:
1996 K1100 LT

grant93 · Posted: Fri Apr 19, 2013 4:48 pm Post subject:

Gidday,

Yep, I have previously brought from both companies over the years when I had my ole 1981 R100rs and you can't fault either for service.

I will pull off the front wheel today and have a poke about at what's going on there,

Thanks for the info and replies
_________________
Cheers Grant

1994 K1100RS
1981 R100RS
1978 R100RS
1928 Chevrolet tourer

www.montythe1928chevrolet.blogspot.com.au

drikko · Posted: Fri Apr 19, 2013 5:27 pm Post subject:

Shop around a bit, brembo bits are far cheaper than what Munich MC have them at, check bevelheaven.com. Postage is usually around $12 for even a largish box of bits to OZ. Usually a week to get here.

Also the pommy BMW parts places are cheaper including delivery here.
_________________
K1100RS '97
Laverda RGS 1000 '84
Jim Young Trailer Sailer 5.7M WB

DISCLAIMER:- Anything I say may have been when I was drunk so please don't take it personally.

'Bigamy is having one wife/husband too many. Monogamy is the same.'
Oscar Wilde

omarsbuddy · Posted: Sun Apr 21, 2013 5:26 am Post subject:

I've got a question re: setting the sensor gap:

Is it always necessary to reset the gap after a wheel has been removed and re-installed?
_________________
Scot
'95 K1100LT

drikko · Posted: Sun Apr 21, 2013 7:12 am Post subject:

omarsbuddy · Posted: Sun Apr 21, 2013 9:03 am Post subject:

E T · Posted: Sun Apr 21, 2013 6:04 pm Post subject:

I just did a LT to RS wheel change, used the old shims when i put it back together crossing my fingers,and no probs, Have never checked mine after pulling the wheel, I have also pulled the forks for a seal fix and this time changed them to RS forks after i was backed into, No problems with the ABS
_________________
1993 K1100LT
2005 Honda VTX 1300c---Passed