K11 Owners Group

Che sera sera

Hi – looking for advice please. ’96 k11 rs with 55k on clock. Been running rough for the last couple of weeks – coughing and spluttering intermittently when moving, and dying when stationary unless revs kept up. Problem happens right from initial start up, hot or cold. However, every now and then, everything seems fine.

I’ve eliminated tank breather, fuel filter, fuel contamination, and battery as problems. Also cleaned all contacts on ECU and its plug but with no change.

Now just this morning, bike turned over fine but wouldn’t start, and after about 5 or 6 attempts everything just died. No starter, no dashboard lights, no fuel pump – just nothing. I’m guessing it’s blown a main fuse or something, but that probably isn’t the underlying issue?

Really stumped and looking for suggestions about where to go next.

Many thanks in advance.
_________________
'96 K1100rs
'93 r1100rs (probably on the way out)

Scott_Anderson · Posted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 7:45 am Post subject:

Well, from an electrical standpoint I'd check, clean the starter brushes. They directly affect the load shed relay and can cause other funky things.
After that I'd check, clean the Ignition switch contacts, kill switch and side stand switch.
_________________
Ride safe.

1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)

Che sera sera · Posted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 8:33 am Post subject:

Thanks for the quick response. Is there a main fuse which could kill everything and if so where is it? I can't really start to diagnose anything else until I can get some signs of life back!

Cheers
_________________
'96 K1100rs
'93 r1100rs (probably on the way out)

Flying Duck · Posted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 1:35 pm Post subject:

No main fuse. Since all of you electrics have gone out, I'd suspect that ignition switch.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

Che sera sera · Posted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 4:40 pm Post subject:

Thanks Flying Duck.

I've had the tank off and pulled/replaced all relays and fuses. All look clean and dry. Also discovered a couple of earth points - again all look sound. But still no starting.

So homing in on ignition switch, I've got the switch pod off, and also the main instrument binnacle. Can anyone advise where I go from there to get at the ignition switch parts? And can they be serviced or is it a new switch unit?

Thanks again.
_________________
'96 K1100rs
'93 r1100rs (probably on the way out)

carp · Posted: Tue Jan 07, 2014 12:40 pm Post subject:

I tried to fix my K75 switch and couldn't get it back together. Be careful with the little do dads. Ended up putting in a used one. K75 had about 60,000 on it when it went.
_________________
93 K1100LT
07 Bandit 1250S

Che sera sera · Posted: Tue Jan 07, 2014 1:10 pm Post subject:

Thanks. I've read elsewhere about the spot of red point that covers the vital grub screw so will see how I fare tonight with that.
_________________
'96 K1100rs
'93 r1100rs (probably on the way out)

Flying Duck · Posted: Wed Jan 08, 2014 11:44 pm Post subject:

The 4V Ks are a bit different in that the ignition switch assembly is installed in the upper fork tree. Once you find/undo the grub screw, all it does is get the switch assembly out of the ignition switch "body", taking the switch apart is a whole 'nother issue.

I've never taken a 4V ignition switch apart. I did take a bad K75/K100 unit apart once just out of curiosity. Let's just say it never was put back together.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

Matthew Porter · Joined: 28 Sep 2013 Posts: 10 Location: England

Have you considered using the local dealer, Vines of Guildford? They know the older bikes as they have been an agent for BMW bikes and cars since they dropped Jaguar under their former name Coombs of Guildford. And they are, it would appear, on your doorstep
_________________
Matthew
BMW K1100LT x 2 (1996 & 1997)
Eric Clapton said he wanted to quit guitar when he heard Jimi Hendrix play. I feel kinda that way when I see a genius riding a motorcycle. But then I kick myself and try and do better.

David_S_Walker · Posted: Thu Jan 09, 2014 12:14 pm Post subject:

Hello,

Vines is a good but possibly expensive option. I use Brian Giles who is based in Pembury in Kent not far from J7 of the M25. Contact him to discuss on 07850 438405 (www.bgmbmw.com) for a chat. Maybe if you have breakdown cover you can get it over to him. He fixed my K1100 which kept cutting out - Turned out to be a duff sensor. He specializes on the R series bikes but cut his teeth on the K - Series at a main dealer and is in my book a good guy to know!

Best regards,

David

Tim (Midland Section) · Posted: Thu Jan 09, 2014 6:19 pm Post subject:

K ign switches are known for breaking wires. Before you remove it, tug the wires individually. If they get longer the wire is broken insinde the insulation. Tis common on early 90's bikes when the wires were tied too tightly. I've had it twice, I repaired it by soldering a new wire in, but you could buy the switch assembly (not the lock) & just plug it in.
HTH
_________________
Regards Tim,

Grey haired riders don't get that way by pure luck
1996 Guzzi Cali3 LAPD
1972 750 Commando
G6HRN
#485

Che sera sera · Posted: Fri Jan 10, 2014 8:47 am Post subject:

Great ideas - please keep them coming. By way of response:

I'll persevere for a while longer before trying to get it anywhere and spending real money. I have a car I can use as a fall back so not so pressed for time.

After three evenings in the garage with it I think I can now rule out the ignition switch and wiring. Before touching it I tried the bike a couple more times and the engine turned over but wouldn't catch. I then ripped into the switch - which looked fine - cleaned, greased re-assembled, checked wiring continuity - but no change in problem.

Next up is the starter motor strip and clean. Does anyone have an idiots guide to removing the thing? It looks very tight ahead of the ABS unit.

I'll try to update as I go along.

Cheers
_________________
'96 K1100rs
'93 r1100rs (probably on the way out)

Scott_Anderson · Posted: Fri Jan 10, 2014 7:31 pm Post subject:

If the engine is turning but not firing, is the fuel pump turning/priming the sytem?
Check the wiring/connections for the Hall Effect Sensors. If they don't send a signal to the Motronic unit when the motor is turning the plugs won't fire and the fuel pump won't run(after initial system priming).
_________________
Ride safe.

1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)

Number 6 · Posted: Fri Jan 10, 2014 8:09 pm Post subject:

Start with the basics: compression, gas, ignition.
_________________
I am not a number, I am a free man.

94 K1100LT

Che sera sera · Posted: Mon Jan 13, 2014 5:11 am Post subject:

OK - fixed (for now) but I've no idea what the cause was.

Spent a few more hours unplugging and re-plugging connectors, cleaning contacts etc. No obvious signs of a problem there.

However, I did find that the spark plugs were very clogged with biscuit brown carbon. No. 4 (gearbox end) especially so. Plugs didn't look that old.

So that could be the cause of the rough running? And what would cause such a build up? It still doesn't explain the total loss of electrical power though.
_________________
'96 K1100rs
'93 r1100rs (probably on the way out)