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fork spring direction

 
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hosehoundfr86
Mad Brick Rider


Joined: 17 Jul 2013
Posts: 122
Location: New Brunswick,Canada

PostPosted: Thu May 01, 2014 6:25 pm    Post subject: fork spring direction Reply with quote

I'm in the process of changing fork seals on my 93K1100RS,, I took out the left fork spring and the tight coils were on the bottom , but in my Clymer Manual,Page 609 it looks like they are on the top. Does it make any difference whether the tighter coil end is on the top or bottom , : Thanks ::Hilton
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10102
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Thu May 01, 2014 6:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Makes a minor difference on fork oil volume but not something you'd probably ever notice.

FYI: Factory installed the tight coils at the top.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
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hosehoundfr86
Mad Brick Rider


Joined: 17 Jul 2013
Posts: 122
Location: New Brunswick,Canada

PostPosted: Thu May 01, 2014 6:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Flying Duck wrote:
Makes a minor difference on fork oil volume but not something you'd probably ever notice.

FYI: Factory installed the tight coils at the top.


Thanks "Duck": I did reassemble it , but it is still dry so for the few min It will take, I will put it right and fill er up tomorrow:Thanks again:Hilton
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hosehoundfr86
Mad Brick Rider


Joined: 17 Jul 2013
Posts: 122
Location: New Brunswick,Canada

PostPosted: Fri May 02, 2014 6:22 pm    Post subject: forks are done Reply with quote

I noticed when reading up on this repair that some guys were complaining about the small fill hole for replacing the fork oil and the time it took to go in,,,When I refilled mine I cleaned the fork tube off pulled the upper tube out as far as possible and put a wrap of duct tape around it at the dust cap so it wouldn't move ,, I turned my trusty Black and Decker workmate on it's end and blocked it off of the ground to accommodate the ABS sensor and clamped the fork in it vertically,, with the top cap left off and the top baffle out I measured the oil in a Pyrex measuring cup and poured it right in the top of the tube,,, the oil peculated through the one baffle pretty easily, I replaced the cap and was done fairly quickly,,I used an adjustable pipe clamp for compressing the spring to remove and replace the clips on the long rod ,Just my 2 cents worth::Thanks for the help::
Hilton
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hosehoundfr86
Mad Brick Rider


Joined: 17 Jul 2013
Posts: 122
Location: New Brunswick,Canada

PostPosted: Fri May 02, 2014 8:04 pm    Post subject: Re: forks are done Reply with quote

hosehoundfr86 wrote:
I noticed when reading up on this repair that some guys were complaining about the small fill hole for replacing the fork oil and the time it took to go in,,,When I refilled mine I cleaned the fork tube off pulled the upper tube out as far as possible and put a wrap of duct tape around it at the dust cap so it wouldn't move ,, I turned my trusty Black and Decker workmate on it's end and blocked it off of the ground to accommodate the ABS sensor and clamped the fork in it vertically,, with the top cap left off and the top baffle out I measured the oil in a Pyrex measuring cup and poured it right in the top of the tube,,, the oil peculated through the one baffle pretty easily, I replaced the cap and was done fairly quickly,,I used an adjustable pipe clamp for compressing the spring to remove and replace the clips on the long rod ,Just my 2 cents worth::Thanks for the help::
Hilton


I also noticed that the fluid I drained from the forks was red like transmission fluid,, anyone know of fork oil being red from any suppliers?
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10102
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Fri May 02, 2014 8:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote


_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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samandkimberly
Brick Rider


Joined: 28 Oct 2012
Posts: 47
Location: Near Boston, MA

PostPosted: Fri May 02, 2014 10:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fwiw, all progressive springs, front or rear, are typically installed tight coils up. This is to reduce unsprung weight; the tight side is noticeably heavier as it has more coils.

Sam
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1993 K1100rs, r80, Montesas, Morinis, Hondas, Suzukis, and an MZ
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grant93
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 23 Mar 2013
Posts: 238
Location: Victoria - Australia

PostPosted: Sat May 03, 2014 1:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gidday Folks,

I just replaced my K1100LT springs today, about 3 hours ago actually so it is nice and fresh in the old noggin.

Yes the original progressive springs where tight coils up had done 155,000kms I gather as they were shot, I had replaced the fluid about 12 months ago when I purchased the bike so the fluid was clean.

I put Race-Tech springs back in and used 15w Motorex which was red in colour and the difference in handling was great, the bike now rides through bumps and rough road instead of crashing down into it.. Big improvement.
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Cheers Grant

1994 K1100RS
1981 R100RS
1978 R100RS
1928 Chevrolet tourer

www.montythe1928chevrolet.blogspot.com.au
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hosehoundfr86
Mad Brick Rider


Joined: 17 Jul 2013
Posts: 122
Location: New Brunswick,Canada

PostPosted: Sat May 03, 2014 6:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the info guys.Can't wait to get on the road.It's great to have you all for back up when needed,, Thanks again,,,,,,,,,,,
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hosehoundfr86
Mad Brick Rider


Joined: 17 Jul 2013
Posts: 122
Location: New Brunswick,Canada

PostPosted: Sun May 04, 2014 7:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I love performance improvement,,,,after riding a few local roads and pushing it into a few good turns ,,,It's like riding a different bike than last summer,,,,,,,,,,Hilton
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