| View previous topic :: View next topic |
| Author |
Message |
jwetering
Joined: 24 Jul 2014 Posts: 10
|
Posted: Thu Jul 24, 2014 3:02 pm Post subject: 1996 K1100RS slipstream deflector operation ? |
|
|
Hi - I'm anew K1100 owner but years long K75s owner.
I've only just gotten the K11 and have ridden it 100 miles from the sellers house to mine. I have it in pieces at the moment - it needs a few things doing to it before it's ready to ride for real.
The question I have at this point concerns the slipstream deflector. Mine just flapped around when I rode it. When I got it home I tried turning the big screws on the inside of the fairing assuming they would either adjust the position of the deflector or increase the friction on the movement, but it did neither.
The owners manual ignores the part - so the question is how is it supposed to work?
I am not interested in modifying the screen or adding more deflection - I just want to know how the part is supposed to work so I can restore it to stock .
Many thanks !
Pics will follow I promise.
jasper _________________ 1988 K75s (project)
1990 K75s (collector)
1996 K1100RS SE |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
Inge K. Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 30 Apr 2011 Posts: 458 Location: Norway
|
Posted: Thu Jul 24, 2014 3:19 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Welcome! The two screws inside the fairing locks the deflector in position.
Loosen the screws, move the deflector to the position you want it, tighten the screws.
If it's still moveable after the screws have been tighten up, the "ears" at both ends is broken.
Not unusual....everyone like to test it..........."is this adjustable,,,can I try",,,CRACK!!...ooops. |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
jwetering
Joined: 24 Jul 2014 Posts: 10
|
Posted: Thu Jul 24, 2014 4:43 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Thanks Inge;
Sounds like this is what has happened.
I will disassemble and inspect. Hopefully I can make a repair without having to purchase a new deflector. A new one will cost $86 USD.
jasper _________________ 1988 K75s (project)
1990 K75s (collector)
1996 K1100RS SE |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
Flying Duck PsyKotic Waterfowl

Joined: 27 Jan 2005 Posts: 10102 Location: Bumf***, WA
|
Posted: Thu Jul 24, 2014 5:01 pm Post subject: |
|
|
That's actually not too bad of a price for a BMW part. There are much worse. Like $850 for a drive shaft.
I always keep mine all of the way forward on my RS bikes. Not sure why they made it adjustable in the first place.
BTW: If you need BMW parts in the US then make a list and buy from Countryside BMW. Use the code PROMO15 for a 15% discount on your entire order. It won't show up online when you order but will when they charge your card. Also, free shipping on $149+ orders. _________________ 93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
jwetering
Joined: 24 Jul 2014 Posts: 10
|
Posted: Thu Jul 24, 2014 5:15 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| Flying Duck wrote: | That's actually not too bad of a price for a BMW part. There are much worse. Like $850 for a drive shaft.
I always keep mine all of the way forward on my RS bikes. Not sure why they made it adjustable in the first place.
BTW: If you need BMW parts in the US then make a list and buy from Countryside BMW. Use the code PROMO15 for a 15% discount on your entire order. It won't show up online when you order but will when they charge your card. Also, free shipping on $149+ orders. |
Indeed $85 isn't bad but I only paid $1500 for the bike so this one little part would equal 6% of the total cost once shipping is added.
That said, this is because I got a smoking deal on the bike and not because the part is expensive.
Thanks for the tip on the parts supplier. I have 3 k-bikes so this will come in handy. _________________ 1988 K75s (project)
1990 K75s (collector)
1996 K1100RS SE |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
Inge K. Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 30 Apr 2011 Posts: 458 Location: Norway
|
Posted: Thu Jul 24, 2014 7:07 pm Post subject: |
|
|
When I did find my fourth deflector that didn't pass the adjusting test while the bike was parked, I was a bit tired of it.
Did remove most of the "ears" exept a small edge on the outer end of the stud on each side.
Over these studs I put a short length of clear silicone hose which then is wedged between the fairing and screen.
The deflector stays in position but flexing a bit, and the adjusting test isn't a problem anymore. |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
jwetering
Joined: 24 Jul 2014 Posts: 10
|
Posted: Thu Jul 24, 2014 7:24 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| Inge K. wrote: | When I did find my fourth deflector that didn't pass the adjusting test while the bike was parked, I was a bit tired of it.
Did remove most of the "ears" exept a small edge on the outer end of the stud on each side.
Over these studs I put a short length of clear silicone hose which then is wedged between the fairing and screen.
The deflector stays in position but flexing a bit, and the adjusting test isn't a problem anymore. |
That's what I like to hear. I'll probably do something similar.
 _________________ 1988 K75s (project)
1990 K75s (collector)
1996 K1100RS SE |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
|