K11 Owners Group

LimeyMike · Joined: 15 Nov 2014 Posts: 7 Location: Dakotas

I have the assembly off the bike ('93 11LT) because it wasn't working so while the bike is stored for the winter I could look at it. I would like to run it on the bench and need to know if I can just run it off a 12V battery and which wires/pins would let me do this? Or, if someone has a wiring diagram I can figure it out. Thanks.
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Inge K. · Posted: Fri Dec 05, 2014 4:38 pm Post subject:

It's a blue and a violet wire to the motor, if you want to test it directly.

But BEWARE you then have nothing that stops the motor when the mechanism comes to the end of its travel.
Run it in small steps when you see the cam wheel profile gets close to the microswitch at each end of the travel.

Also check that the micro switches goes open when the end of the travel is reached, and both is closed when you are between the end positions.

LimeyMike · Joined: 15 Nov 2014 Posts: 7 Location: Dakotas

Thank you Inge. Good tip on the micro switches too, thanks!
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rbm · Posted: Fri Dec 05, 2014 8:59 pm Post subject:

Read this thread on K100-forum.
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- Robert
1987 K75 @k75retro.blogspot.ca
2011 Moto Guzzi V7 Racer

jr'sbmw · Big Brick Rider Joined: 04 Nov 2008 Posts: 54 Location: Fl

My LT sat over the summer(ride the FJR in FL heat), so this fall the windshield motor won't run. Removed the screws, lifted the windshield unit a little, tapped on the motor lightly.......fixed!!!!

rbm · Posted: Sat Dec 06, 2014 9:59 am Post subject:

Periodically spray non-gumming silicone lubricant on the guide rails as the mechanism tends to stick if not lubed. Don't use much because it could attract dirt.
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- Robert
1987 K75 @k75retro.blogspot.ca
2011 Moto Guzzi V7 Racer

LimeyMike · Joined: 15 Nov 2014 Posts: 7 Location: Dakotas

Thanks for all the info. I do suspect the mechanism is gummed up and stuck and the motor is OK. With a little cleaning and a small amount of lube I should be in good shape. I'll let you know.
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Inge K. · Posted: Sat Dec 06, 2014 1:20 pm Post subject:

Before the dismantling move the mechanism to the most downward position if posibble,
Then it's easier to get all the parts in the correct position relative to each other.......especially the camwheel for the microswitches.

A common problem is that the steel tubes for the cables rusts on the inside and because of that the mechanism gets very to move and then stops.
The very late model have a different material in these tubes.

A couple of this that I have repaired the motor shaft have rusted between the rotor and the pinion gear, with the same result as above.
The rainwater (or when washing) gets inside the steel tubes, follows the inside and ends up in the motor.

LimeyMike · Joined: 15 Nov 2014 Posts: 7 Location: Dakotas

So I lied, I used a lot of lube, almost a can of Tri-Flow silicone. Soaked the mechanism and drive screws several times over a period of a few days and moving it a little back and forth and it finally let loose. The motor is good but I do have a crack in one of the brackets that the windshield mounts to, so I'm shopping for a used one of those.

Thanks again Inge, you hit the nail on the head.
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