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Just checked the valves K1100LT - some loose, Change?

 
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Corkboy
Mad Brick Rider


Joined: 26 Aug 2013
Posts: 81
Location: Cork, Ireland

PostPosted: Fri Apr 17, 2015 6:48 pm    Post subject: Just checked the valves K1100LT - some loose, Change? Reply with quote

Hi all,
Well, I've just done the first valve check (for me) on my K1100LT. Did enough of them on a K100RS, so no great shock.

Mileage is 51,500 miles.

Intakes are all pretty much in spec,


_______1a__1b__ 2A__2B__3A__3B__4A___4B
Go_____.15_ .15_ .18_ .20_ .18_ .20_ .20 __.18 (all 0. mm)
No Go__.18_ .18_ .20_ .21_ .20_ .21_ .21__ .20

Exhausts - 1b, 3b, and 4a a bit loose

________1a__ 1b__ 2A__ 2B__ 3A___ 3B__ 4A__ 4B
Go ____ .28__ .33__ .28__.28__ .28__ .33__ .31__.25 (all 0. mm)
No Go__ .30__ .34__ .30__.30__.30__ .34___.32__.28

So, collective wisdom. Is it worth swapping them out?
This of course means taking off the exhaust cam. Taking out the buckets, measuring them, ordering replacements from the UK, waiting for them to arrive, putting them in, putting everything back together.

The alternative is putting back on the cover, faring, and riding the hell out of it for the summer.
Can you see which one I'm partial to? Laughing

Of course, if any of them were tight, we wouldn't be having this conversation.
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'08 K1200GT
'87 K100RS 0140995 (Gone)
'97 K1100LT 0188024 (Gone)
'08 Transalp 700 (Gone)
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Number 6
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 05 Feb 2011
Posts: 481
Location: Paris area, France

PostPosted: Fri Apr 17, 2015 7:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't understand what are your Go and No Go values, intake should be between .15 and .20, exhaust should be between .25 and .30.
Those values should reduce with wear so it is strange that you have clearances that are too large, usually it means someone screwed up the adjustment before.
Taking out the shafts is not difficult and you don't need to measure the buckets, the bucket size is engraved inside and readable, just make sure the chain tensioner is held in place or you'll have to remove the timing cover, I think I have a tutorial somewhere if you're interested.
One option would be to balance the clearance by swapping buckets and try to predict what buckets you'll need next time so that you can order them.
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94 K1100LT
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garynali
Mad Brick Rider


Joined: 17 Apr 2010
Posts: 79
Location: Hervey Bay, Australia

PostPosted: Sat Apr 18, 2015 6:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Corkboy
Plan "B " looks very attractive
Gary C
93 K11RS
05K1200GT
10 KLR650
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Corkboy
Mad Brick Rider


Joined: 26 Aug 2013
Posts: 81
Location: Cork, Ireland

PostPosted: Sun Apr 19, 2015 5:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the input guys.

I decided to go for plan B after all.

Put the cover back on, left it overnight to let the gasket sealer cure. Checked for leaks today, (there were none), then put her back together.

Sounds good to me.

I'll check her again in another 50,000 miles. Very Happy
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'08 K1200GT
'87 K100RS 0140995 (Gone)
'97 K1100LT 0188024 (Gone)
'08 Transalp 700 (Gone)
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Ernie-NH
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 14 Oct 2009
Posts: 982
Location: Bristol, New Hampshire

PostPosted: Mon Apr 20, 2015 9:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very Happy Very Happy


Good morning all...

I think CorkBoy made the right decision in ANY case !! However, No.6,, if you have a link to that tutorial, I sure would love to know how to do it.. I have been afraid to tackle this job for several years now, because of what I assumed to be the complexity and potential to "screw it up royally "...any hands on guide ( not Clymer ) from someone who's been there and done that would be great !! So if you have a link, many of us might beg to have it and then file it in the Stickies for all future K11OG ers!

Thanks....

Regards all....ride safe ,,,,// Ernie in NH
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Corkboy
Mad Brick Rider


Joined: 26 Aug 2013
Posts: 81
Location: Cork, Ireland

PostPosted: Mon Apr 20, 2015 9:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ernie,
here's the one I used to check the valves

http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech/k11valve.shtml

just followed it step by step - no problems were encountered. I took the time to clean out the threads of any bolts removed (I have a tap and die set), and this was really necessary for the crashbar nuts and bolts. Also added antiseize (copperslip) on reassembly. Also gave me a chance to clean some of the accrued gunk from the head/underside of the engine.

Here's the one on actually removing he cams

http://classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/0.ckb.tech.files/4valves/4valves.htm

And it contains three other links - i printed out the "cheatsheet" which was handy to note the gaps as I went.

To be honest, I agree with Number 6 - it wouldn't be that hard to swap out the valves, and if they were tight I would have no qualms about doing it. But the weather is too good for that sort of lark at the moment.

Just take it slow and steady.
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'08 K1200GT
'87 K100RS 0140995 (Gone)
'97 K1100LT 0188024 (Gone)
'08 Transalp 700 (Gone)
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Number 6
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 05 Feb 2011
Posts: 481
Location: Paris area, France

PostPosted: Mon Apr 20, 2015 10:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is my tutorial in french: http://www.bmwk1.org/viewtopic.php?t=1003
You can translate with google or if there is enough interest I can translate it.
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