K11 Owners Group

g30n · Joined: 16 Mar 2016 Posts: 5 Location: Huntsville, AL

Hello, All! I just acquired a '96 K1100LT Special Edition with 8200 miles on it for a killer deal. It was a deal with the devil though, because it's in good shape on the exterior, stored indoors without a battery and with the tank drained, but has had the keys missing for quite some time, so hadn't run in forever. Now, I'm not too shabby with a lockpick, so the luggage was easy to get open, and the gas tank wasn't too bad, but the ignition lock stumped me and my little poor man's torsion bar.

It'll need new tires, as the rubber on it is showing the years, and I'm starting into finding what else needed to be fixed. Got a new battery (Odyssey PC680) and installed it today, and I'm working on getting a key for the gas tank. The inside of the tank has a little patina on it, but it isn't gunky, so I'm not too worried about it, although from searching the forum a little, I should look into changing the fuel filter after I can get it running.

Since I couldn't get the ignition picked and don't have any reference for the key code, I decided to just jump the connector to see what I could see. Lo and behold, shorting the two pairs of terminals in the ignition connector turned the lights on! I decided to push my luck and see if the starter would turn over, and when hitting the starter button I was greeted with the sound of a starter motor whining as if it were locked in place. As it was late, I left it at that, pulled my hot-wiring and went to mull it over.

Does anyone have experience with this problem? I'm assuming that there is a starter clutch that may be stuck--does that happen on these bikes? Anyone have a solution aside from pulling whole thing apart and cleaning and oiling all of the pieces one by one? Any advice is appreciated!

I'm excited about putting some miles on the K11, but trying not to be daunted by the possible number of issues.
_________________
1st Beemer! 1996 K1100LT SE

1982 CM450C
1983 GL650
1983 GL650I
1984 GL1200

Jim · Posted: Thu Mar 17, 2016 12:41 am Post subject:

Welcome! Congrats on the killer deal! That's super low mileage!

Due to age, most of the rubber bits - including the brake lines - are probably ready for replacement.

If the starter is spinning, but not engaging, it's probably dried grease... Make sure that Odyssey is charged up.

The bag and radio cover locks are fairly easy to re key. Unless you can find a key code somewhere, you'll probably have to replace the ignition.
_________________
Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repaired!
1992 K75RTP 46,000

"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed."

Flying Duck · Posted: Thu Mar 17, 2016 3:51 am Post subject:

Take the gas cap to a locksmith. They can make you a key. Last one I did was $35 - but that was a couple of years ago.

MUCH less expensive and much easier than replacing the ignition switch.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

g30n · Joined: 16 Mar 2016 Posts: 5 Location: Huntsville, AL

If the locks haven't been changed (I have no reason to believe that they have been), is there a single key for the ignition, gas cap, and seat lock? Any idea if the tumblers are the same in all three, or if the key just works on three different sets?

Apparently, that information is so basic that I can't find it anywhere.

Thanks, Duck & Jim! I'll be looking into the brake lines, as it appears in going to have to rebuild the master for the front brake. Aside from tires, brake and fuel lines, are there any other major rubber components that need replacing?
_________________
1st Beemer! 1996 K1100LT SE

1982 CM450C
1983 GL650
1983 GL650I
1984 GL1200

N41EF · Posted: Thu Mar 17, 2016 3:09 pm Post subject:

Yes, originally there was a single key for ignition, fairing, luggage and gas cap. If they can cut one for the gas cap it should operate everything else. You can buy a lock set, but having a key made is cheaper.

Sounds like the starter is hung up and the bend isn't engaging. I'd try hitting the starter and releasing is many times to see if it breaks free. Pull the spark plugs and shoot a little WD or some sort of lube in the cylinders. Boat dealers have a fogging spray lubricant.

Congrats on the find and welcome to the club!
_________________
2014 R1200RT Water Cooled
2001 R1100S Light
1993 K1100LT. Nissan Ice Blue.(Gone)

Grunter · Posted: Thu Mar 17, 2016 3:19 pm Post subject: Key Code

A Motorrad dealer anywhere will have a record of where the bike was originally sold and if they cannot find the original key code they will be able to trace it via the computer system. You may have to provide proof of ownership to get a key however.

The handbook, if you got one with the bike will show where it was sold

As for replacing the rubber seals, the ones I would concentrate on are the brake lines and possibly master cylinders. All the other seals/lines seem to have a good long life even if it isn't used that much.

My K1100LT was one of the last, made in 1988 and so far all the seals I have had to replace are the ones as above. Also like yours, mine had a low mileage recorded - 18343 - but the service sheets indicated in some years it only ran for 50 or 60 miles a year, not even half a tank of fuel.
_________________
1997 K1100LT
1994 R1100RS

g30n · Joined: 16 Mar 2016 Posts: 5 Location: Huntsville, AL

Grunter, I actually did check up on it, and the dealership where the bike was originally sold is closed. No manual with the bike. No records available. Crying or Very sad

I'm going to take the gas cap to a locksmith.

The back brake lines seem to be fine. I've checked the rear brake and the lines and it seems responsive and the line seems pliable. The front brake, though, will have to be bled and then tested. Would anyone recommend changing the lines, even if they seem to be ok?
_________________
1st Beemer! 1996 K1100LT SE

1982 CM450C
1983 GL650
1983 GL650I
1984 GL1200

N41EF · Posted: Fri Mar 18, 2016 9:48 am Post subject:

My 93 had 13k mile on it two years ago when I bought it, so I'm in the same shoes. I had to rebuild my rear master cylinder last year and am in the process of replacing all lines with stainless.

I'd flush the rear with new brake fluid, and the front to see if they pump up and feel ok. My rear is operating good, but the front was "sticking" like when you apply the front brakes you could feel that they didn't release as soon as you got off the lever. When I bled them last year there was very little flow out of either front brake which after reading here makes me think a rubber line is breaking down and or swelling.

Like you my tires were 10 years old and I put Pilot 3 radials on it, world of difference!

Trans oil change, rear drive change, and an oil and filter change after you get it started and warmed up. I'd also drain and fill with fresh coolant and distilled wanted after you get it up and going. There is a cross list on here somewhere for oil filters and fuel filters. I'm using Bosch 3330 oil filter and a NAPA 3032 fuel filter right now. The oil filter is available at any local parts place as part of an oil change special (it also happens to fit a PT cruiser) so I get a free filter with a 5 quart jug of dino oil, I use 10w-40 in SC.

Most of my fuel lines are original, all of the cooling system hoses are original although I installed a lower temp thermostat.
_________________
2014 R1200RT Water Cooled
2001 R1100S Light
1993 K1100LT. Nissan Ice Blue.(Gone)

Jim · Posted: Fri Mar 18, 2016 11:19 am Post subject:

Grunter · Posted: Fri Mar 18, 2016 11:50 am Post subject: Deteriorating Brake lines

g30n · Joined: 16 Mar 2016 Posts: 5 Location: Huntsville, AL

beemrdon52 · Posted: Fri Mar 18, 2016 10:25 pm Post subject:

Any BMW dealer will have a key made for you if you give them the vin # for around $17.00. You don't need to go there. Use the phone and they will mail it to you. BMW makes them fast. You do need to send them proof that you own the bike though - fax, email. I believe you need your lic and registration as proof.
_________________
1996 K1100 LT SE, Aspen Silver 148,xxx mi.

Flying Duck · Posted: Fri Mar 18, 2016 11:59 pm Post subject:

g30n · Joined: 16 Mar 2016 Posts: 5 Location: Huntsville, AL

Flying Duck · Posted: Wed Apr 20, 2016 11:01 pm Post subject:

Starters usuallylast in excess of 100K.

No problem bump-sarting it on a hill.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

Jim · Posted: Thu Apr 21, 2016 1:48 am Post subject:

I buy from Max all the time - I should be getting M&Ms peanuts by now...

Did you try graphite or teflon or anything in that ignition lock? If the bike sat there for years, it's probably stuck... assuming the key was cut right and the lock was never changed. I guess if your switch is cleverly hidden, it's not a problem.
_________________
Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repaired!
1992 K75RTP 46,000

"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed."

whyoldbill · Posted: Thu Apr 21, 2016 10:19 am Post subject:

SugarHillCTD · Posted: Thu Apr 21, 2016 6:45 pm Post subject:

whyoldBill's suggestion could be the fix.

By the way, Rusty at MaxBMW really knows K100/1100 bikes, so he is a very good source. When I had to do my last K-RS clutch, I called them with what I thought I needed. I spent some time on the phone with him and he told me what I did need and what I didn't- right off and without looking at any reference. He knows these bikes.
_________________
John & Cathy

'92 K100RS4V Pearl White SOLD
'04 K1200GT
IBA Several-SS1k, BBG, 50CC NYC to S.F.