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Crankcase pressure

 
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ungaas



Joined: 13 Aug 2016
Posts: 10
Location: Kent, UK.

PostPosted: Wed Oct 26, 2016 2:57 pm    Post subject: Crankcase pressure Reply with quote

I've recently bought a 1100 lt, 83000 miles on the cluster, have been working through a number of problems i.e., tps, co2 pot, oil water pump. someone has adjusted the screws on the tb( yes the no touch screws). So I have a bit of work for my sins.
Questions I have are - on opening the oil filler screw cap when idling I get a positive pressure with no change in idle speed, is this normal.
Can anyone help with oxygen sensor settings between pins, 31-28,28-25,31-25.
First post here.
Thanks in advance
Bike is a 92 LT - 83000mls.
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Grunter
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Joined: 30 Sep 2015
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 26, 2016 5:19 pm    Post subject: Crankcase Pressure Reply with quote

As far as I know this is normal.

I have a 1998 K1100LT with approaching 40K miles and a 1986 K75s with about 56K miles and it doesn't seem to affect either if the filler is opened.

All I get are oil splashes thrown up by the rotating machinery inside
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1997 K1100LT
1994 R1100RS
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ungaas



Joined: 13 Aug 2016
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Location: Kent, UK.

PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2016 1:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I ask only because I also have a K100 which runs rough if I do a similar test.

Relieved to hear it's normal, the bike runs well has the usual K engine noises with quite high fuel consumption, I suspect the oxygen potentiometer setting is incorrect.
Temperature (water) indication is high.
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88 K100 unfaired 96000mls
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Scott_Anderson
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2016 7:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll say that it's not uncommon, but it isn't normal by the way that all the vacuum hosing is piped.
The crankcase is generally piped to the intake stream so any "vapors" of combustion are recirculated back into the TB intakes and re-burned and pumped out the exhaust. If there is nothing in the crankcase to satisfy this then it is in a negative.

When new this system probably didn't work too bad, as the years have gone by it has degraded somewhat by aging hoses that leak, greater blow by than what the hoses can suck, etc.....

Some of us have even re-piped this vacuum setup to allow for better crankcase vacuum, thus will cause your oil cap too appear to have 'suction' when removed while the engine is running.

Some of the USA models even had the gas tank piped into this scheme to draw fuel vapors as well. This didn't work too well and the repair was to disconnect the vacuum from the fuel tank and vent the tank direct to the atmosphere.
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1997 K1100LT 0302488
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
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"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1995 K1100LT 0302044(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)
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Grunter
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Joined: 30 Sep 2015
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2016 9:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ungaas wrote:
I ask only because I also have a K100 which runs rough if I do a similar test.

Relieved to hear it's normal, the bike runs well has the usual K engine noises with quite high fuel consumption, I suspect the oxygen potentiometer setting is incorrect.
Temperature (water) indication is high.


Bearing in mind a UK Gallon is more than a USA one, but when I'm on a long run at a constant speed 65-70 I always get in the high 50's per UK gallon. Even on continental Europe it's the same or even better when you change the litres to UK Gallons (x .22) I have never ever had less than 52-53 MPG, whatever the conditions so unless you are screwing the guts out of the bike every time you stop at lights, whatever, you should find for it's size a K1100 is a pretty frugal machine.

The water temp on mine in all weathers/temperatures has the needle resting just below 1/2 on the gauge, however if I stop at traffic lights for longer than 5 mins or get caught in slow moving traffic the needle doesn't hang about and heads for the temp where the fan kicks in.
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whyoldbill
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2016 10:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Scott_Anderson wrote:

Some of us have even re-piped this vacuum setup to allow for better crankcase vacuum, thus will cause your oil cap too appear to have 'suction' when removed while the engine is running.



Before I re-plumbed mine, the crankcase pressure was causing a small oil leak at the rear crankshaft seal, which fouled my clutch.
Leak stopped immediately once the vacuum was corrected, I just need to replace the clutch plate and rear seal now.
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ungaas



Joined: 13 Aug 2016
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Location: Kent, UK.

PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2016 12:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for all the input guys.

I gather the vacumn pipe referred to here are between the tb's and filter box. When I balanced the tb's , I could not get no 1 balanced with 2,3 and 4, this may be where my problem is. A job rather left for colder months, not very far away.

As for the temperatures I agree the gauge can move rather quickly in standing traffic, fan kicks in and out as needed, funny how much cooler my K100 is.

Appreciate your comments here.
Cheers.
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Grunter
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 28, 2016 5:40 am    Post subject: Radiators Reply with quote

Slightly off topic and discussing radiators. The one on my K75s has only ever needed the fan to cut in to cool the motor once and this was on an extemely hot (30c) day with no wind, 7000 feet up a mountain pass in Austria where I was held up for 10 mins due to road repair work.
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ungaas



Joined: 13 Aug 2016
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Location: Kent, UK.

PostPosted: Wed Nov 02, 2016 1:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Some K75 owners have never heard their cooling fans run, in saying that I took my K100 out this past Sunday, it was damp and foggy, the Bike never hit half on temp gauge, whereas I'm sure the 1100 would have.
Cheers.
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ungaas



Joined: 13 Aug 2016
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Location: Kent, UK.

PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2016 4:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
(Some of us have even re-piped this vacuum setup to allow for better crankcase vacuum, thus will cause your oil cap too appear to have 'suction' when removed while the engine is running.)

I removed the air box yesterday, found some cracked and very loose pipes.
The quote above from Scott indicates a modification, are there diagrams or a list of alternative components or materials?

Thanks
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Jim
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2016 8:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A couple threads - and if Max is still around he might still have a pdf he can send you. If I can locate the pdf he sent me, I'll send it to you.

http://www.k11og.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=11285&highlight=cyclonic

http://www.k11og.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6515


"Basically at the rear of the engine block there is a hose that (most likely bad after a few years anyway) goes into the top lid(above the filter) of the air box. This hose is cut short near the block fitting so that you can fit a pcv valve. The pcv valve is then connected to the vac rail manifold on the backside of the throttle bodies.

in this thread:
http://www.k11og.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=11285&highlight=cyclonic


One additional change that I did on both of my bikes is that I connected all 4 of the "front" throttle body vacuum ports together and connected one side of it to the front block fitting (sets behind the radiator that he has marked in the image as blocked off) and connected the other end to my cruise control.

This way, at low idle the block gets the high vacuum from the front vac rail, and then when the engine rpms are higher, the block gets the vacuum from both front rail and the rear rail thru the pcv valve.

The jury is out yet on weather it helps with oil consumption or not, but I did notice that I now have much better block vacuum at the oil fill cap when the engine is running. It wants to suck the cap in instead of blow it off...."
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1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
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1992 K75RTP 46,000

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ungaas



Joined: 13 Aug 2016
Posts: 10
Location: Kent, UK.

PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2016 10:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Interesting links, I noticed the difference in the 2 schematics, with the last being the correct method.Good idea.

On removal I found the hose at the rear of the block to be badly cracked,comments on the links show this as being a common fault also one of the 2 front hoses had slipped off the rear rail mount, the clamp hadn't been fitted correctly.
All in all good to find and even better to have a solution readily available, i will certainly be going down this route.

My ride outs this far have always needed a refuel mid distance.

Thank you for the input.
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88 K100 unfaired 96000mls
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whyoldbill
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2016 9:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

another added side effect is that with the vacuum improvements, synchronizing the throttle bodies is a whole lot easier, which results in a lot less vibration in the handlebars.
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The desired effect is what you get when you improve your interplanetary funksmanship - George Clinton
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