Oil Change

[Ted]

Hi Folks,

I just changed the oil in a K-bike owned by me for the first time in a decade, it was as easy as ever. Run bike until fan comes on, remove drain plug and drain oil, remove oil filter cover, remove old filter, install oil drain plug with new crush washer, fill new oil filter and replace hand tight then 3/4 turn with the ratchet, install new cover o-ring and replace cover, double-check everything is tight, check header bolts for tightness, fill with oil. Used Mobil-1, 15-50 and a Mobil-1 M1-102 filter (I did remember to peel off the sticker first ) Whole thing too me maybe 15 minutes, not including the upcoming trip back to AutoZone to recycle the used oil.

Felt damn good to be working on MY bike again The previous work was done by a dealer so the drain plug was on very tight, the oil filter was also on way too tight and the filter o-ring came immediately fell off the filter. I took it for a spin after the oil change and I can feel a real difference, seems much happier (though maybe it is my imagination.)

Next up, new oil for the transmission, new oil for the final drive, and clean and lube the rear splines while I am in there - looks like Guard Dog will be getting some money from me tomorrow!

PS - I saved the old OEM BMW filter, going to go at it with a dremel to compare the innards with the M1-102 and Bosch 3330.

[Flying Duck]

Ted:

Good thing you're back on the road and the wrenches again. You're supposed to ride it to heat up the oil - it's more fun that way.

I bought some Guard Dog gear oil additive to see what that does in the tranny. Plan to try it out later this week,

[Ted]

Rich brought me some Moly powder to HMIII (Thanks Rich!!!) that I am going to mix into the tranny fluid when I change it this week. We have an old Braun coffee grinder that never worked too well, guess it will soon have a new lease on life

[Jim]

Ted - I know the bike was just serviced - by a dealer. I always check the exhaust header nuts when I change the oil...

[Flying Duck]

I always check the exhaust header nuts when I change the oil...

Non-issue on a K75. Getting them loose can tough be though.

K11s are another issued altogether.

[Jim]

My bad...

Never mind, Ted - don't check your nuts!

[Freedom45]

+1 on checking the exhaust nuts, something I do everytime and reset the torque. It seems there are always one or two that need it.

Magnetic drain plugs are available for the K series, however, I attached a neodimium magnet, same diameter, and am always impressed by the amount of collected stuff it takes out of the oil. I've used this system on on K11K that has 300+K on it and there was always some ferrous material collected on the magnet. Those magnets are on all three of my current K series motorcycles.

I tend to keep vehicles for their service life and feel that extended life can be had by magnets on external filters or on drain plugs. My F150, 1992, has a tad over 250K on it and is still running "as good as new".

[Shoganai]

PS - I saved the old OEM BMW filter, going to go at it with a dremel to compare the innards with the M1-102 and Bosch 3330.

Very cool Ted! :clap

The above will require pics ya know. :nod

May I suggest using a bandsaw or hacksaw instead.

[RAL88]

Here is a cutaway I did between a Fram and a BMW filter.

[Jim]

If you're really into cutting filters open - especially if you're doing it to examine the filter - here's the deal: http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/product/1519/Tools

[Freedom45]

Jim: thanks for the link. Their selection of motorcycle accessories is good and had a few things that I've been looking for recently. They are now on order.

[Saltcreek]

I've assembled all of the necessary stuff for fluid changes and I'm trying to remember from last time is it the transmission that wants to pee all over the floor if you don't rig some kind of funnel?

[old guy old bike]

Yup, It's the tranny. I use a qt oil bottle with the bottom cut off to direct the fluid into the drain pan.
Jeff

[andyc]

Aluminum foil works pretty good too.

[Ted]

I usually fashion a shield using the box the oil filter comes in

Running errands this afternoon I took a shot and stopped at the Mobil-1 Quickee oil change place today to see if they would take the used engine oil - they were quite enthusiastic to take it and told me to bring any old coolant I might have as well. The guy even cleaned off the spout and side cover of the oil change tub.

[andyc]

So what is the purpose of using the coffee grinder?

[RAL88]

To homogenize the moly in the oil before adding it.

[andyc]

Does it settle out if just poured into the transmission?

[RAL88]

The moly will settle out but does not solidify and mixes easily when agitated when you are driving. I am going on the advice of a mechanic friend who says it is easier to add and more evenly distributes if you mix it with the oil first.

[andyc]

That does make sense. Thank you

[Freedom45]

A question, please. Why remove the drain plug when changing the oil rather than simply remove the oil filter plate? Unless, of course, you have a magnetic drain plug. Just curious.

I've never had a K that was hard to shift, however, all have been made easier to shift by usage of Micron. I am not a big believer in "magic" additives, however, Micron is a one time treatment that has born good results. I've used it in the engine, trans and final drive on all my previous and current Ks, one of which is now bordering on 350K.

Samples of one mean little, I understand, however, several of my Beemer friends have had what they consider positive results as well. Micron is not inexpensive, but, then neither are K1100s and I tend to ride them until the bike(s) are worn out.