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Power take off point
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Naked Hoof
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 02 Mar 2010
Posts: 150
Location: Northern NJ

PostPosted: Sat May 15, 2010 9:24 pm    Post subject: Power take off point Reply with quote

I've got myself an auxiliary fuse box (Centech AP-1) after hearing of the difficulties of getting the factory harness and wiring to deal with various upgraded or additional components.

Most of the installations I've seen put this under the seat, which for me seems ridiculous. I've chosen a location in the upper fairing on the left side, which will keep the wiring runs much shorter. The bracket which the fuel gauge mounts to seems perfectly located, providing a solid mounting point and plenty of room to route harnesses to different spots. It also seems it might be a great spot to mount a couple of permanent 12v outlets for a GPS and a Detector.

I'm searching through threads trying to find the ideal take off point for the positive lead, which appears to be from the starter motor, since it is switched, and is full of raw power.

Any additional thoughts?

FYI, first upgrades are PIAA 1192 Driving Lights and the Bi-Xenon upgrade for the headlight.
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
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Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Sat May 15, 2010 9:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use these inexpensive fuse blocks. They mount nicely next to the OEM fuse block.




For large unswitched loads like driving lights, headlight relays, etc... I get power from the rear starter relay terminal.
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Naked Hoof
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 02 Mar 2010
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Location: Northern NJ

PostPosted: Sat May 15, 2010 9:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

For me, the fairing position is a much better location. You have only one long run from the starter relay, instead of multiple runs using the other method. Yeah, so I have to remove the knee pad to get to it...a minor issue IMO. No "bling factor"...hmm, yeah this sucks...lol.
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81 Honda CB900F
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93 K1100RS Mystic Red

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Stoked Steve
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Joined: 01 Sep 2004
Posts: 1402
Location: Virginia Beach, VA

PostPosted: Sat May 15, 2010 10:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
I get power from the rear starter relay terminal


Ditto that, I've got a headlight relay, two driving light relays, and a heated grip relay all powered off that point. It's getting a little crowded on that positve bolt though.

I conversed with Jim at Eastern Beaver about an auxiiliary fuse block to replace all those terminal rings on that one post and he suggested his new Power Center 8. I think he compares it to the Centech on his site as well. He thought the starter relay positive post was a good power point as it was switched (unless you need some unswitched connections, for which he reccomended a direct battery connection).

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/Fuseboxes/PC-8/pc-8.html
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Jim
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Joined: 17 May 2003
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PostPosted: Sat May 15, 2010 10:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Eastern Beaver fuseblock is way better than the Centech. I have one of each, and could never bring myself to install the Centech with all the contacts exposed on the bottom.

That said, I have a Centech fuseblock for sale - an AP1, I think.
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Flying Duck
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Joined: 27 Jan 2005
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PostPosted: Sat May 15, 2010 11:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The power to the rear terminal of the starter relay is NOT SWITCHED nor is it fused. It comes straight from the battery.and is always hot.

If you don't believe me, take a ground wire and a wire from that terminal and stick them in your mouth. Make sure someone is there to get a video to upload.
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86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
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malcolmt
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Joined: 23 Apr 2007
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PostPosted: Sun May 16, 2010 4:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

NH,
If you run a wire from the battery to your new fuse box then that wire will not be protected. If if gets damaged and shorts then POOF and SMOKE.

Run your new wire via an inline fuse holder mounted close to the connection, this will protect the new wire.
This is why the OE fuses are located close to the power source.

Malcolm(t)
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Stoked Steve
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Joined: 01 Sep 2004
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Location: Virginia Beach, VA

PostPosted: Sun May 16, 2010 8:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
The power to the rear terminal of the starter relay is NOT SWITCHED nor is it fused.


That's interesting, I always assumed it was since none of those accecories will come on if the key is not on, but now that I think about it, I guess that's becasue they are run through relays that are also connected to a switched power wire, so that they can't come on when the key is off.
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drikko
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Joined: 20 Nov 2009
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PostPosted: Sun May 16, 2010 6:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

They are correct, that take off point isn't switched or fused. The reason all your things turn off is the control wires to your relays are switched off. But if you measure the volts at the input of the relays from the starting relay, you will find it's still live, which is exactly what you want, it maximises the power to your relay controlled lights etc.

Make sure there's a big fuse right near the starter relay as others have said above!
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Naked Hoof
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Joined: 02 Mar 2010
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Location: Northern NJ

PostPosted: Sun May 16, 2010 8:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've decided to send the Centech back. The location that I chose is not guaranteed to stay dry.

The PIAAs and the HID upgrade both come with their own dedicated harnesses, so I've decided to utilize them.

Dropped a screw while removing the fairing...it's gone disappeared. Not on the garage floor, not inside the fairing...damn. Plus there is now a mess of dandelion spore all over the garage. Any parts that get sucked into that vortex may never be seen again.

It's the law of screw drops and spring loss: they go into a special place, and NOT where you thought they would.
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79 Honda CB750 trainer
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81 Honda CB900F
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93 K1100RS Mystic Red

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Stoked Steve
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Joined: 01 Sep 2004
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PostPosted: Sun May 16, 2010 8:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I know the dropped screw disapearance all to well. I've found a magnetic retrieval tool to be most helpful, it's even found items I didn't know I had lost! I used it twice today.

I always laugh when I think that I must be carrying about 5 lbs of lost screws, washers and bolts somewhere in the innards of the bike! Laughing
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Naked Hoof
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 02 Mar 2010
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Location: Northern NJ

PostPosted: Sun May 16, 2010 9:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

skdonlan wrote:
I know the dropped screw disapearance all to well. I've found a magnetic retrieval tool to be most helpful, it's even found items I didn't know I had lost! I used it twice today.

I always laugh when I think that I must be carrying about 5 lbs of lost screws, washers and bolts somewhere in the innards of the bike! Laughing


Oh, I have two of those. The one I was just using has a nice long telescoping handle. Probably 30" long or more. I have another in the tool chest in storage, and one of those half spider grabbers, too.

I did actually find one screw while I was vacuuming, which unfortunately I can only do at dusk. I was thinking about that stainless steel screw set. Probably would replace a lot of missing screws, too.
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79 Honda CB750 trainer
traded for Suzuki GS1150e (stolen)
81 Honda CB900F
02 Kawasaki ZR7 (cursed)
93 K1100RS Mystic Red

Dreams should never be reduced in potency by subjecting them to reality. - Lord Snarebottom
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Mystic Red
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Joined: 28 Mar 2005
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PostPosted: Sun May 16, 2010 9:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Compressed air will often blow the lost item out, then you can find it with the magnet. Very Happy
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Naked Hoof
Flying Brick Rider


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Location: Northern NJ

PostPosted: Sun May 16, 2010 9:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mystic Red wrote:
Compressed air will often blow the lost item out, then you can find it with the magnet. Very Happy


Getting it out isn't the issue. Finding it is... Laughing
_________________
79 Honda CB750 trainer
traded for Suzuki GS1150e (stolen)
81 Honda CB900F
02 Kawasaki ZR7 (cursed)
93 K1100RS Mystic Red

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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
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PostPosted: Sun May 16, 2010 9:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think most garages have a hyperspatial interdimensional confluence that sucks dropped washers, bolts and nuts off to an alternate universe. I know mine does. There's a gigantic pile of them in that alternate universe. Next to the pile of single socks that disappear from the dryer.
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86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
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Buy parts HERE
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drikko
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Joined: 20 Nov 2009
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PostPosted: Sun May 16, 2010 10:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The trick to stopping the single sock issue is to buy many pairs of identical socks. This at least delays the issue till you are down to just 1 sock, then go buy 20 more pairs the same.
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'Bigamy is having one wife/husband too many. Monogamy is the same.'
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Stoked Steve
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PostPosted: Mon May 17, 2010 6:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have found that the stainless steel nuts and bolts are not magnetic(?) I guess they're non-ferrous?

So my handy magnetic tool doesn't work on them. Sad
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Flying Duck
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Joined: 27 Jan 2005
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PostPosted: Mon May 17, 2010 10:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

skdonlan wrote:
I have found that the stainless steel nuts and bolts are not magnetic(?) I guess they're non-ferrous?

So my handy magnetic tool doesn't work on them. Sad


It depends on the particular stainless alloy used. The fasteners I use aren't mag either.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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drikko
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 20 Nov 2009
Posts: 1966
Location: Brisbane, OZ

PostPosted: Tue May 18, 2010 2:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This got me curious, the stainless on my boat is all 316 grade including all the fasteners, slightly cheaper is 304 grade SS which most automotive SS fasteners are, The Desmoparts screw kits say they are A2-70 and A2-80 which I haven't heard of before although they are non magnetic so may be 3xx series as well, just a different nomenclature. BTW my Stainless fridge and oven are both magnetic so they must be 400 series, handy for posting pics up on the fridge! So as to why they aren't magnetic I found this,:-

http://www.abc.net.au/science/articles/2009/11/19/2746568.htm
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K1100RS '97
Laverda RGS 1000 '84
Jim Young Trailer Sailer 5.7M WB

DISCLAIMER:- Anything I say may have been when I was drunk so please don't take it personally.

'Bigamy is having one wife/husband too many. Monogamy is the same.'
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Flying Duck
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Joined: 27 Jan 2005
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PostPosted: Tue May 18, 2010 2:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

drikko wrote:
The trick to stopping the single sock issue is to buy many pairs of identical socks. This at least delays the issue till you are down to just 1 sock, then go buy 20 more pairs the same.


In the US we have both left and right socks so that wouldn't work. The reason that we have both left and right socks is so that they can fight with each other.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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