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Naked Hoof Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 02 Mar 2010 Posts: 150 Location: Northern NJ
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Posted: Sat May 15, 2010 9:24 pm Post subject: Power take off point |
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I've got myself an auxiliary fuse box (Centech AP-1) after hearing of the difficulties of getting the factory harness and wiring to deal with various upgraded or additional components.
Most of the installations I've seen put this under the seat, which for me seems ridiculous. I've chosen a location in the upper fairing on the left side, which will keep the wiring runs much shorter. The bracket which the fuel gauge mounts to seems perfectly located, providing a solid mounting point and plenty of room to route harnesses to different spots. It also seems it might be a great spot to mount a couple of permanent 12v outlets for a GPS and a Detector.
I'm searching through threads trying to find the ideal take off point for the positive lead, which appears to be from the starter motor, since it is switched, and is full of raw power.
Any additional thoughts?
FYI, first upgrades are PIAA 1192 Driving Lights and the Bi-Xenon upgrade for the headlight. _________________ 79 Honda CB750 trainer
traded for Suzuki GS1150e (stolen)
81 Honda CB900F
02 Kawasaki ZR7 (cursed)
93 K1100RS Mystic Red
Dreams should never be reduced in potency by subjecting them to reality. - Lord Snarebottom |
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Flying Duck PsyKotic Waterfowl

Joined: 27 Jan 2005 Posts: 10102 Location: Bumf***, WA
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Posted: Sat May 15, 2010 9:47 pm Post subject: |
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I use these inexpensive fuse blocks. They mount nicely next to the OEM fuse block.
For large unswitched loads like driving lights, headlight relays, etc... I get power from the rear starter relay terminal. _________________ 93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE |
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Naked Hoof Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 02 Mar 2010 Posts: 150 Location: Northern NJ
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Posted: Sat May 15, 2010 9:59 pm Post subject: |
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For me, the fairing position is a much better location. You have only one long run from the starter relay, instead of multiple runs using the other method. Yeah, so I have to remove the knee pad to get to it...a minor issue IMO. No "bling factor"...hmm, yeah this sucks...lol. _________________ 79 Honda CB750 trainer
traded for Suzuki GS1150e (stolen)
81 Honda CB900F
02 Kawasaki ZR7 (cursed)
93 K1100RS Mystic Red
Dreams should never be reduced in potency by subjecting them to reality. - Lord Snarebottom |
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Stoked Steve Flying Brick Rider

Joined: 01 Sep 2004 Posts: 1402 Location: Virginia Beach, VA
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Posted: Sat May 15, 2010 10:15 pm Post subject: |
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| Quote: | | I get power from the rear starter relay terminal |
Ditto that, I've got a headlight relay, two driving light relays, and a heated grip relay all powered off that point. It's getting a little crowded on that positve bolt though.
I conversed with Jim at Eastern Beaver about an auxiiliary fuse block to replace all those terminal rings on that one post and he suggested his new Power Center 8. I think he compares it to the Centech on his site as well. He thought the starter relay positive post was a good power point as it was switched (unless you need some unswitched connections, for which he reccomended a direct battery connection).
http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/Fuseboxes/PC-8/pc-8.html _________________ Steve
Virginia Beach, VA
93 K1100RS Mystic Red SOLD
12 Suzuki DL650A VStrom |
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Jim Site Admin

Joined: 17 May 2003 Posts: 3841 Location: WHERETHEFUNNEVERENDS
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Posted: Sat May 15, 2010 10:46 pm Post subject: |
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The Eastern Beaver fuseblock is way better than the Centech. I have one of each, and could never bring myself to install the Centech with all the contacts exposed on the bottom.
That said, I have a Centech fuseblock for sale - an AP1, I think. _________________ Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repaired!
1992 K75RTP 46,000
"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed." |
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Flying Duck PsyKotic Waterfowl

Joined: 27 Jan 2005 Posts: 10102 Location: Bumf***, WA
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Posted: Sat May 15, 2010 11:55 pm Post subject: |
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The power to the rear terminal of the starter relay is NOT SWITCHED nor is it fused. It comes straight from the battery.and is always hot.
If you don't believe me, take a ground wire and a wire from that terminal and stick them in your mouth. Make sure someone is there to get a video to upload. _________________ 93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE |
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malcolmt Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 23 Apr 2007 Posts: 369 Location: Parys, S.Africa
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Posted: Sun May 16, 2010 4:27 am Post subject: |
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NH,
If you run a wire from the battery to your new fuse box then that wire will not be protected. If if gets damaged and shorts then POOF and SMOKE.
Run your new wire via an inline fuse holder mounted close to the connection, this will protect the new wire.
This is why the OE fuses are located close to the power source.
Malcolm(t) _________________ ******************************
A Bike on the road is worth two
in the shed
****************************** |
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Stoked Steve Flying Brick Rider

Joined: 01 Sep 2004 Posts: 1402 Location: Virginia Beach, VA
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Posted: Sun May 16, 2010 8:49 am Post subject: |
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| Quote: | | The power to the rear terminal of the starter relay is NOT SWITCHED nor is it fused. |
That's interesting, I always assumed it was since none of those accecories will come on if the key is not on, but now that I think about it, I guess that's becasue they are run through relays that are also connected to a switched power wire, so that they can't come on when the key is off. _________________ Steve
Virginia Beach, VA
93 K1100RS Mystic Red SOLD
12 Suzuki DL650A VStrom |
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drikko Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 20 Nov 2009 Posts: 1966 Location: Brisbane, OZ
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Posted: Sun May 16, 2010 6:11 pm Post subject: |
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They are correct, that take off point isn't switched or fused. The reason all your things turn off is the control wires to your relays are switched off. But if you measure the volts at the input of the relays from the starting relay, you will find it's still live, which is exactly what you want, it maximises the power to your relay controlled lights etc.
Make sure there's a big fuse right near the starter relay as others have said above! _________________ K1100RS '97
Laverda RGS 1000 '84
Jim Young Trailer Sailer 5.7M WB
DISCLAIMER:- Anything I say may have been when I was drunk so please don't take it personally.
'Bigamy is having one wife/husband too many. Monogamy is the same.'
Oscar Wilde |
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Naked Hoof Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 02 Mar 2010 Posts: 150 Location: Northern NJ
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Posted: Sun May 16, 2010 8:23 pm Post subject: |
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I've decided to send the Centech back. The location that I chose is not guaranteed to stay dry.
The PIAAs and the HID upgrade both come with their own dedicated harnesses, so I've decided to utilize them.
Dropped a screw while removing the fairing...it's gone disappeared. Not on the garage floor, not inside the fairing...damn. Plus there is now a mess of dandelion spore all over the garage. Any parts that get sucked into that vortex may never be seen again.
It's the law of screw drops and spring loss: they go into a special place, and NOT where you thought they would. _________________ 79 Honda CB750 trainer
traded for Suzuki GS1150e (stolen)
81 Honda CB900F
02 Kawasaki ZR7 (cursed)
93 K1100RS Mystic Red
Dreams should never be reduced in potency by subjecting them to reality. - Lord Snarebottom |
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Stoked Steve Flying Brick Rider

Joined: 01 Sep 2004 Posts: 1402 Location: Virginia Beach, VA
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Posted: Sun May 16, 2010 8:43 pm Post subject: |
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I know the dropped screw disapearance all to well. I've found a magnetic retrieval tool to be most helpful, it's even found items I didn't know I had lost! I used it twice today.
I always laugh when I think that I must be carrying about 5 lbs of lost screws, washers and bolts somewhere in the innards of the bike!  _________________ Steve
Virginia Beach, VA
93 K1100RS Mystic Red SOLD
12 Suzuki DL650A VStrom |
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Naked Hoof Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 02 Mar 2010 Posts: 150 Location: Northern NJ
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Posted: Sun May 16, 2010 9:17 pm Post subject: |
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| skdonlan wrote: | I know the dropped screw disapearance all to well. I've found a magnetic retrieval tool to be most helpful, it's even found items I didn't know I had lost! I used it twice today.
I always laugh when I think that I must be carrying about 5 lbs of lost screws, washers and bolts somewhere in the innards of the bike!  |
Oh, I have two of those. The one I was just using has a nice long telescoping handle. Probably 30" long or more. I have another in the tool chest in storage, and one of those half spider grabbers, too.
I did actually find one screw while I was vacuuming, which unfortunately I can only do at dusk. I was thinking about that stainless steel screw set. Probably would replace a lot of missing screws, too. _________________ 79 Honda CB750 trainer
traded for Suzuki GS1150e (stolen)
81 Honda CB900F
02 Kawasaki ZR7 (cursed)
93 K1100RS Mystic Red
Dreams should never be reduced in potency by subjecting them to reality. - Lord Snarebottom |
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Mystic Red Flying Brick Rider

Joined: 28 Mar 2005 Posts: 2330 Location: Twin Lakes Idaho
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Posted: Sun May 16, 2010 9:19 pm Post subject: |
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Compressed air will often blow the lost item out, then you can find it with the magnet.  _________________ Scott Hespelt, '94 K11LT
K11 OG #466 |
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Naked Hoof Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 02 Mar 2010 Posts: 150 Location: Northern NJ
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Posted: Sun May 16, 2010 9:25 pm Post subject: |
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| Mystic Red wrote: | Compressed air will often blow the lost item out, then you can find it with the magnet.  |
Getting it out isn't the issue. Finding it is...  _________________ 79 Honda CB750 trainer
traded for Suzuki GS1150e (stolen)
81 Honda CB900F
02 Kawasaki ZR7 (cursed)
93 K1100RS Mystic Red
Dreams should never be reduced in potency by subjecting them to reality. - Lord Snarebottom |
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Flying Duck PsyKotic Waterfowl

Joined: 27 Jan 2005 Posts: 10102 Location: Bumf***, WA
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Posted: Sun May 16, 2010 9:55 pm Post subject: |
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I think most garages have a hyperspatial interdimensional confluence that sucks dropped washers, bolts and nuts off to an alternate universe. I know mine does. There's a gigantic pile of them in that alternate universe. Next to the pile of single socks that disappear from the dryer. _________________ 93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE |
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drikko Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 20 Nov 2009 Posts: 1966 Location: Brisbane, OZ
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Posted: Sun May 16, 2010 10:01 pm Post subject: |
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The trick to stopping the single sock issue is to buy many pairs of identical socks. This at least delays the issue till you are down to just 1 sock, then go buy 20 more pairs the same. _________________ K1100RS '97
Laverda RGS 1000 '84
Jim Young Trailer Sailer 5.7M WB
DISCLAIMER:- Anything I say may have been when I was drunk so please don't take it personally.
'Bigamy is having one wife/husband too many. Monogamy is the same.'
Oscar Wilde |
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Stoked Steve Flying Brick Rider

Joined: 01 Sep 2004 Posts: 1402 Location: Virginia Beach, VA
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Posted: Mon May 17, 2010 6:04 pm Post subject: |
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I have found that the stainless steel nuts and bolts are not magnetic(?) I guess they're non-ferrous?
So my handy magnetic tool doesn't work on them.  _________________ Steve
Virginia Beach, VA
93 K1100RS Mystic Red SOLD
12 Suzuki DL650A VStrom |
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Flying Duck PsyKotic Waterfowl

Joined: 27 Jan 2005 Posts: 10102 Location: Bumf***, WA
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Posted: Mon May 17, 2010 10:31 pm Post subject: |
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| skdonlan wrote: | I have found that the stainless steel nuts and bolts are not magnetic(?) I guess they're non-ferrous?
So my handy magnetic tool doesn't work on them.  |
It depends on the particular stainless alloy used. The fasteners I use aren't mag either. _________________ 93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE |
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drikko Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 20 Nov 2009 Posts: 1966 Location: Brisbane, OZ
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Posted: Tue May 18, 2010 2:10 am Post subject: |
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This got me curious, the stainless on my boat is all 316 grade including all the fasteners, slightly cheaper is 304 grade SS which most automotive SS fasteners are, The Desmoparts screw kits say they are A2-70 and A2-80 which I haven't heard of before although they are non magnetic so may be 3xx series as well, just a different nomenclature. BTW my Stainless fridge and oven are both magnetic so they must be 400 series, handy for posting pics up on the fridge! So as to why they aren't magnetic I found this,:-
http://www.abc.net.au/science/articles/2009/11/19/2746568.htm _________________ K1100RS '97
Laverda RGS 1000 '84
Jim Young Trailer Sailer 5.7M WB
DISCLAIMER:- Anything I say may have been when I was drunk so please don't take it personally.
'Bigamy is having one wife/husband too many. Monogamy is the same.'
Oscar Wilde |
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Flying Duck PsyKotic Waterfowl

Joined: 27 Jan 2005 Posts: 10102 Location: Bumf***, WA
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Posted: Tue May 18, 2010 2:20 am Post subject: |
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| drikko wrote: | | The trick to stopping the single sock issue is to buy many pairs of identical socks. This at least delays the issue till you are down to just 1 sock, then go buy 20 more pairs the same. |
In the US we have both left and right socks so that wouldn't work. The reason that we have both left and right socks is so that they can fight with each other. _________________ 93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE |
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