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poetryandmotorbikes
Mad Brick Rider
Joined: 17 Sep 2009
Posts: 80
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 Posted: Mon Aug 09, 2010 10:39 pm Post subject: Clutch? Something else? |
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Hi guys,
Just returned from a 2600 mile trip (that I did in two days) and am having some trouble now.
The power doesn't come on until well after I've let go of the clutch. It makes the bike completely gutless at the low-end. The power does come on, but theres a significant delay.
Any help would be, as always, kindly appreciated.
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1992 K75S
Motopoeta | Beautiful Vintage Motorcycles Daily |
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Shoganai
Biscuit Fluffer
Joined: 27 Apr 2005
Posts: 2234
Location: Culpeper,VA
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| Posted: Tue Aug 10, 2010 4:58 am Post subject: Re: Clutch? Something else? |
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| poetryandmotorbikes wrote: | Hi guys,
Just returned from a 2600 mile trip (that I did in two days) and am having some trouble now.
The power doesn't come on until well after I've let go of the clutch. It makes the bike completely gutless at the low-end. The power does come on, but theres a significant delay.
Any help would be, as always, kindly appreciated. |
I suggest you need to adjust your clutch cable at the barrel adjuster at the lever.
I suspect the friction point is not where it needs to be.
You are describing a high friction point.
PS I'm a girl  But the guys will be along to chime in. 
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1993 K1100RS aka The Shop Whore
1994 K1100RS aka Blue Streak
The long road is a rainbow and the pot of gold lies there.
So slip the chain and I'm off again,
You'll find me everywhere. I'm a Rover. - JT
Nana korobi ya oki |
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl
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Ted
Site Admin
Joined: 03 Apr 2003
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| Posted: Tue Aug 10, 2010 11:05 am Post subject: Re: Clutch? Something else? |
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| Shoganai wrote: | I suggest you need to adjust your clutch cable at the barrel adjuster at the lever.
I suspect the friction point is not where it needs to be.
You are describing a high friction point. |
I am betting Gwen is right on, that was the first thing I thought.
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 Ted
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poetryandmotorbikes
Mad Brick Rider
Joined: 17 Sep 2009
Posts: 80
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| Posted: Tue Aug 10, 2010 1:57 pm Post subject: |
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Adjusting the clutch cable didn't do much. Reason that I think it's something more structural is because the power only kicks in a few seconds after the clutch has been fully released -- my revvs are way higher than they usually should be before the power kicks in. Not a matter of friction point because the lever is completely released? I'm going to adjust it down at the bottom tonight, see if that makes a difference. What would I do without you guys?
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1992 K75S
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Shoganai
Biscuit Fluffer
Joined: 27 Apr 2005
Posts: 2234
Location: Culpeper,VA
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| Posted: Tue Aug 10, 2010 3:35 pm Post subject: |
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| poetryandmotorbikes wrote: | | Adjusting the clutch cable didn't do much. Reason that I think it's something more structural is because the power only kicks in a few seconds after the clutch has been fully released -- my revvs are way higher than they usually should be before the power kicks in. Not a matter of friction point because the lever is completely released? I'm going to adjust it down at the bottom tonight, see if that makes a difference. What would I do without you guys? |
Then it might just need replacing. It has stretched too long to be adjusted. Like that of a chain on a chain driven motorcycle.
The delay in "power kicking in" and the "revs being higher" are related.
Because the engine speed (Revs) and where the clutch friction plate transfers power from the engine to the transmission are out of phase.
You are rolling on the throttle as you normally would however, there is a delay when the power is actually being transfered. This causes the bike to feel like you are starting from a stop in third gear... that is the sensation of "no power".
PS FWIW I HIGHLY recommend you carry a spare clutch and throttle cable in the pocket under the seat along with a spark plug socket and tools to replace all three. Those are three trip killers that are easy to replace and will get you back on the road fast.
_________________
1993 K1100RS aka The Shop Whore
1994 K1100RS aka Blue Streak
The long road is a rainbow and the pot of gold lies there.
So slip the chain and I'm off again,
You'll find me everywhere. I'm a Rover. - JT
Nana korobi ya oki |
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old guy old bike
Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 18 Jul 2007
Posts: 373
Location: Lisbon, OH
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| Posted: Tue Aug 10, 2010 9:12 pm Post subject: |
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I had a similar malady with mine. Turned out that the cable was coming apart inside the cover and binding up.
Jeff
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1993 K1100LT
2003 K1200GT Gone but not forgotten
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Jim
Site Admin
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| Posted: Tue Aug 10, 2010 11:45 pm Post subject: clutch cables |
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While we're on the topic of clutch cables, it's a good idea to lube the barrels at both ends once a year. I lube the barrels on the K every spring - with - you guessed it - DuPont Teflon...
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Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repaired!
1992 K75RTP 46,000
"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed." |
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl
Joined: 27 Jan 2005
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Location: Bumf***, WA
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| Posted: Tue Aug 10, 2010 11:51 pm Post subject: |
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Better yet, remove the clutch arm and clean/lube the bearings for the pivot rod. Worked wonders on my project K75. Plan to do it to the RS this fall when I give it a 50k spline lube and general going over.
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93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
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IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
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Jim
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| Posted: Tue Aug 10, 2010 11:54 pm Post subject: |
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| Flying Duck wrote: | | Better yet, remove the clutch arm and clean/lube the bearings for the pivot rod. Worked wonders on my project K75. Plan to do it to the RS this fall when I give it a 50k spline lube and general going over. |
What do you lube those with? WD40? Or Honda Moly?
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Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repaired!
1992 K75RTP 46,000
"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed." |
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl
Joined: 27 Jan 2005
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| Posted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 12:17 am Post subject: |
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| Jim wrote: | | Flying Duck wrote: | | Better yet, remove the clutch arm and clean/lube the bearings for the pivot rod. Worked wonders on my project K75. Plan to do it to the RS this fall when I give it a 50k spline lube and general going over. |
What do you lube those with? WD40? Or Honda Moly? |
Mobil 1 synthetic bearing grease.
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93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE |
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl
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| Posted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 12:25 am Post subject: |
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I also use it for steering head bearings and pivot bearings - and the cable ends as well.
Stuff I've read indicates that moly is for stuff that slides, not bearings.
Probably doesn't matter too much anyhow. Keeping stuff freshly lubed is probably more important.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE |
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Mystic Red
Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 28 Mar 2005
Posts: 2330
Location: Twin Lakes Idaho
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| Posted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 11:45 am Post subject: |
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Might check to see if something is on top of your "cat" although when that happens the clutch lever has slack in it.
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Scott Hespelt, '94 K11LT
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl
Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10102
Location: Bumf***, WA
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| Posted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 12:53 pm Post subject: |
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| Mystic Red wrote: | | Might check to see if something is on top of your "cat" although when that happens the clutch lever has slack in it. |
No cat on a K75.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE |
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Scott_Anderson
Site Admin
Joined: 05 Sep 2006
Posts: 3122
Location: Central Iowa, USA
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| Posted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 1:22 pm Post subject: |
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| Jim wrote: | | Flying Duck wrote: | | Better yet, remove the clutch arm and clean/lube the bearings for the pivot rod. Worked wonders on my project K75. Plan to do it to the RS this fall when I give it a 50k spline lube and general going over. |
What do you lube those with? WD40? Or Honda Moly? |
I used some Moly when I reassembled the '95 this spring. Since coming back from S Dakota I am experiencing a very stiff clucth lever.
I going to pull the arm and check the pivot bearings as I have ridden in a whole lot of rain since assembly. Possibly have flushed some of the lube out and is now binding somehow.
I have lubed the handle lever pivot point and cable ends and checked cable adjustment with no improvement.
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Ride safe.
1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
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"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
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1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold) |
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poetryandmotorbikes
Mad Brick Rider
Joined: 17 Sep 2009
Posts: 80
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| Posted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 3:42 am Post subject: |
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Quite confused. Went to buy another cable today and the shop was out. So I monkeyed with the lever some more. When I back the cable all the way out of the lever and make the clutch really stiff, the bike will barely move at all when I release (just slightly inches forward). But when I loosen the lever all the way by screwing further into the lever the bike works in the same way as I initially described. Now, if I am not mistaken, if it's the cable, shouldn't it be the other way around? As in, when I tighten up the lever (it is theoretically pulling the cable tighter?) shouldn't it help rather than hinder? Is my logic all off?
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1992 K75S
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tibbe
Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 14 Jul 2003
Posts: 190
Location: Lulea Sweden
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| Posted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 7:25 am Post subject: |
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Hmm
Can it be a dry clutch spline?
Clould be that the clutch friction plate are not moving so easy on the shaft.
Anyone please feel free to add comments and advises on this.
If so and you need to take out the tranny, take the time to take out the clutch and be carefull to check that the clutch pressureplates are flat.
NOT: It takes some time and beers to take out the clutch. |
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2xcelr8
Big Brick Rider
Joined: 29 Sep 2009
Posts: 71
Location: SE Wisconsin
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| Posted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 1:24 pm Post subject: |
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| poetryandmotorbikes wrote: | | Quite confused. Went to buy another cable today and the shop was out. So I monkeyed with the lever some more. When I back the cable all the way out of the lever and make the clutch really stiff, the bike will barely move at all when I release (just slightly inches forward). But when I loosen the lever all the way by screwing further into the lever the bike works in the same way as I initially described. Now, if I am not mistaken, if it's the cable, shouldn't it be the other way around? As in, when I tighten up the lever (it is theoretically pulling the cable tighter?) shouldn't it help rather than hinder? Is my logic all off? |
A loose or stretched clutch cable should give you the most engagement pressure but this may not allow you to properly disengage the clutch for shifting or stopping. By over-tightening the cable, the clutch can not engage to move the bike. It sounds as though you may have glazed the clutch causing excess slippage. Is there any sign of oil at the weep hole? It may be that your "O"-ring is starting to leak contaminating the clutch. An improper spline lube could also cause grease to get on the clutch disc. I hate to say it, but it sound like it's time to get your hands dirty and open it up to find out what is happening. 
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Doug
'96 K1100RS, '94 K1100LT, '84 Honda VF700F Interceptor (4 sale) |
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poetryandmotorbikes
Mad Brick Rider
Joined: 17 Sep 2009
Posts: 80
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| Posted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 4:15 pm Post subject: |
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Okay. Well, I guess I'll have to open it up. Any tips for what to look for? I won't have much of an idea. Could you clarify by what you mean by "glazing the clutch"? Thanks.
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1992 K75S
Motopoeta | Beautiful Vintage Motorcycles Daily |
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Jim
Site Admin
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| Posted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 7:21 pm Post subject: |
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| poetryandmotorbikes wrote: | | Okay. Well, I guess I'll have to open it up. Any tips for what to look for? I won't have much of an idea. Could you clarify by what you mean by "glazing the clutch"? Thanks. |
The clutch disk is a friction surface - so it's smooth, but not glossy/glassy. If it's been slipping it'll get a real smooth glaze on the surface. If there's enough material left, it can be de-glazed - if not, you'll be replacing it anyway.
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Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repaired!
1992 K75RTP 46,000
"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed." |
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