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Couple q's regarding ABS I lights, switch and reading faults

 
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leecow
Brick Rider


Joined: 17 Apr 2011
Posts: 36
Location: Edmonds, WA

PostPosted: Mon May 09, 2011 1:37 pm    Post subject: Couple q's regarding ABS I lights, switch and reading faults Reply with quote

Hey folks,

Yesterday after a short ride my ABS and Brake lights began blinking simultaneously (fine when I stopped, began blinking after the bike sat for about an hour). Pressing the ABS switch has no effect. From info in the many threads on the subject I gather that battery level may be a likely culprit so will have a look there (PO indicated the batter is getting old). In the meantime I do have a couple questions to clarify some things.


    1) The ABS button is very stiff. Is this typical? I did pop the switch panel off and can see the rocker inside the switch moving. Need to put a multimeter on it to see if a connection is happening. In general the bottom side of the switches are a bit grungy. Hazard switch had a wire busted that I resoldered and the ABS wires were none too secure so gave them a little touch up as well.
    2) Having trouble running the fault code reading procedure using the temp light (not an LED test light). The temp light never turns off so I suspect I'm doing something wrong. Following http://www.k11og.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2110 :

      • Test lead in pin#2 of the test connector, clip to battery positive terminal.
      • Ignition on (and I assume kill switch is on as well)
      • Fuel pump whirrs, various lights come on solid, abs light blinks, temp light solid and never blinks.

    Can the Temp light be used for reading ABS faults or just Motronic faults?

Thanks in advance for any info!
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Lee
'93 K1100RS
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Jim
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PostPosted: Mon May 09, 2011 5:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Lee,

I can't help you with the fault code bit, but I can tell you the switches are very easy to get out, and also very easy to take apart and clean. And yes, the contacts do get dirty. Sometimes just spraying something (WD-40 - which I would never use on a dirty switch) will bring the switch back to working condition.
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Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repaired!
1992 K75RTP 46,000

"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed."
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SugarHillCTD
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PostPosted: Mon May 09, 2011 9:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lee,

FD's post on the Tech Resource subforum is a good place to start.

http://k11og.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2110

Good luck.

John
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leecow
Brick Rider


Joined: 17 Apr 2011
Posts: 36
Location: Edmonds, WA

PostPosted: Mon May 09, 2011 9:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks John. Been through that and referenced it in my original post here Smile

Clarifying question is to information provided in that post.

Quote:

2) Having trouble running the fault code reading procedure using the temp light (not an LED test light). The temp light never turns off so I suspect I'm doing something wrong. Following http://www.k11og.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2110 :


• Test lead in pin#2 of the test connector, clip to battery positive terminal.
• Ignition on (and I assume kill switch is on as well)
• Fuel pump whirrs, various lights come on solid, abs light blinks, temp light solid and never blinks.


Can the Temp light be used for reading ABS faults or just Motronic faults?

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Lee
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Scott_Anderson
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PostPosted: Mon May 09, 2011 10:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lee, you are having two issues here.

1st the temp light only reads the motronic faults(pin 1 of the diag connector)

2nd you will need a 12v LED to read the abs faults.
The + of the test LED goes to the battery + terminal.
The - of the test LED then connects to pin #2 of the diag connector to read the abs faults.

The rest of the instructions should be fairly simple after that.
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1997 K1100LT 0302488
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
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Garmin Zumo 550
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"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
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SugarHillCTD
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PostPosted: Mon May 09, 2011 10:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OOPS!

REALLY tired tonight. Too many things going on and trying to get everything together before HM.

Have you searched thru IBMWR?
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'92 K100RS4V Pearl White SOLD
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leecow
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Joined: 17 Apr 2011
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PostPosted: Tue May 10, 2011 9:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

No worries John and yeah, I use IBMWR as a resource as well.

Thanks Scott for clarification on the temp light. Yes, the rest of the instructions are very clear and shouldn't be a problem. Use of the temp light for other diagnostics was the ambiguous bit. Will hit Radio Shack today for an LED. Had the battery on Tender Jr. since getting home from work yesterday so we'll see if that changes anything.

In the meantime I stand ready with electrical tape for the morning's commute.
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Lee
'93 K1100RS


Last edited by leecow on Tue May 10, 2011 1:07 pm; edited 1 time in total
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SugarHillCTD
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PostPosted: Tue May 10, 2011 10:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Electrical tape has been my fall back temp. fix. Very Happy

One time I had tape in place over the abs light show- several days later I happened to look at the gauges at an odd angle and noticed that the system had reset itself! Go figure.
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leecow
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Joined: 17 Apr 2011
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Location: Edmonds, WA

PostPosted: Thu May 12, 2011 4:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Spent some time last night disassembling, cleaning and rebuilding the ABS switch. It was definitely a mess. Works with a nice 'snick!' and now does what it's supposed to do. While inside the switch I noticed that everything is in place to accept a light under the ABS lens. Might try fiddling around a bit to see if a permanent ABS diagnostic light solution is possible/practical.

The not-so-permanent LED diagnostic light is currently offering an error code #7. Or is it #6? The Tech sticky indicates that the short flashes are counted so would the following sequence be code 6 or 7? "____" is the light steady on.

Ignition on: ____ 1 2 3 4 5 6 ____ 1 2 3 4 5 6 ____

When counting along with the flashes I want to include the final long light but am thinking that might not be right.

Question regarding ABS reset: are there any visual (some light does something), auditory (relay clicks) or other measurable event (stuff multi-meter in some connector and watch for something) which indicate that the reset has occurred?
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leecow
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Joined: 17 Apr 2011
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PostPosted: Mon May 16, 2011 4:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bump to the top to hopefully get some clarification on 2 things.

First is about reading the ABS code. Is the following sequence a 6 or a 7? "____" is the light steady on.

    ____ 1 2 3 4 5 6 ____ 1 2 3 4 5 6 ____


Second is regarding ABS reset. Are there any visual or audio clues that the reset happened?

Thanks much!
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Scott_Anderson
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PostPosted: Mon May 16, 2011 10:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would say that the flashing sequence you have there is 6. don't count the long only the short.

the only visual would be if you try and read the code after reset and there is nothing there. no audio.
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1997 K1100LT 0302488
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1995 K1100LT 0302044(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)
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leecow
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Joined: 17 Apr 2011
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Location: Edmonds, WA

PostPosted: Tue May 17, 2011 11:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Scott. Yet another reason to pull the gas tank adn crack open the relay box. Wink

Have there been any successes rehabilitating dodgy relays? I would presume that testing a relay is as simple as locating the correct pins and direct connecting to the battery with a fused jumper wire?
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Scott_Anderson
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PostPosted: Mon May 23, 2011 10:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I haven't had any experience with the abs1 systems, if you are close to Drake I'd bet he could help you diagnose it further in his garage, and/or have some replacement parts for you as well.
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1997 K1100LT 0302488
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1995 K1100LT 0302044(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)
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Tim (Midland Section)
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Joined: 08 Apr 2005
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PostPosted: Tue May 24, 2011 4:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

To do a reset only requires 18" wire, A flash of 6 means ABS relay fault, not had that one myself.
Do Not leave the LED in circuit whilst doing a reset, causes confusion in the brain. Disconnect LED, Do a reset, ALL off, then re read pulses.
Does the reset switch make the flashing dash lamp stop for 5 minutes, if not the switch is still faulty & you will NEVER reset the ABS ?
HTH
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leecow
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PostPosted: Tue May 24, 2011 6:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Tim.

After rehabing the ABS switch it does stop the blinking for about 10 minutes (both lights on solid). Have been attempting the reset without the LED in circuit. Bare wire into the middle diag jack slot (#2), alligator clip to the ABS modulator mounting bolt (confirmed good ground with a continuity tester).

I'm guessing at this point that since I cannot get the thing to clear that the relay is toast and until it's changed out the fault code cannot be cleared.

Will be hooking up with Duck to diag a few things next month and this will be on the list.
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Tim (Midland Section)
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PostPosted: Wed May 25, 2011 3:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

leecow wrote:
Thanks Tim.

I'm guessing at this point that since I cannot get the thing to clear that the relay is toast and until it's changed out the fault code cannot be cleared.


That is indeed correct. These ABS thingy's can be a right B'stard, just checking so you don't waste your time & those reading can learn from my mistakes.
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Regards Tim,

Grey haired riders don't get that way by pure luck
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leecow
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PostPosted: Wed May 25, 2011 4:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I definitely appreciate that. Will update this thread after testing and, if necessary, replacing the relay.
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Lee
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wilkess1



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PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2012 11:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Lee

Did you get to the bottom of your ABS error code 6 ? Did a new relay cure the problem? and if so were there any test you were able to do before replacement that proved the point?

I ask, as I have a very similar situation with my '93 K1100RS too, and would appreciate any steer you could give...

Many Thanks
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