K11 Owners Group

kirkkw

I've read it all and am still confused. The bike and my Clymer manual are 7000 miles away while I sit here and plan the installation of my new Ram fork springs in late August. Maybe a little presumptuous since I don't actually have the springs nor are they on order. There is another thread concerning the ordering of those springs.

While I understand the steps as presented, but not necessarily the logic contained therein, I will not have the recommended two or even three helpers the article suggests.
http://www.k11og.org/tech/k11tech_springs_install.shtml and http://www.largiader.com/tech/k11forks/

Step 5 of the K11og article says to take the bike off the center stand and stand on the foot pegs. Presumably this is to compress the springs which is the point I am most confused about.

I will use the parts terminology from the Largiader description with the k11og terminology in (). It seems the primary issue in reaching the springs is the removal of the stop disc (retainer cap) which is held by the split clips (dogs). If the bike and rider weight is working to compress the spring it is actually adding pressure to the back (bottom) side of the stop disc (retainer cap) which I need to press down on to remove the split clips (dogs).

If I am correct so far, compressing the springs is working against me and my efforts to release the split clips (dogs). It seems better to relieve pressure on the springs by removing weight on the front suspension. However, based on the Largiader link, it seems the stop disc (retainer cap) holds the spring/damper assembly inside the fork tube by the stop disc (retainer cap) encountering a circlip which is below it inside the fork tube. If not for this circlip, the damper/fork slider assembly would be free to fall off the bottom of the fork tube if the front wheel were suspended.

Now to the meat of my question. If I am correct so far, I would want to unload weight from the front suspension, but not to the point the front wheel is off the ground. This would allow the spring to be as relaxed as possible, allowing me to easily remove the split clips (dogs).

Alternatively, if the forks need to be compressed, rather than standing on the balanced bike, it seems I could leave it on the center stand, remove the brake calipers and run ratchet straps from the lower or upper fork brace and loop it around the bottom of the slider. I could then compress the forks by the ratcheting action of the straps. This would eliminate the need to balance the bike while standing on the foot pegs and accordingly an extra set of hands.

What am I missing here?
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1996 K1100RS, 1976 CB750A, 2017 Triumph Trophy, 2020 R1250RT, 2022 RE Classic 350

kirkkw · Posted: Fri May 13, 2011 9:25 am Post subject:

52 views and no responses!

Do I need to change my name, ID, icon?

Ken
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1996 K1100RS, 1976 CB750A, 2017 Triumph Trophy, 2020 R1250RT, 2022 RE Classic 350

Scott_Anderson

rgscomp · Posted: Fri May 13, 2011 11:25 am Post subject: making life easy...

For what it's worth, I read the various ways of doing this and then just invested in the BMW special tool for compressing the spring as I usually work on my bikes on my own.

It's just a simple task then, I used the BMW service manual procedure with the tool and it's a simple no-stress one-man job.

Remove fork leg, remove lower damper fixing bolt and pull stanchion from slider. Attach the BMW tool, compress spring and remove collets, dismantle stanchion/spring/etc.

Reassembly is the reverse.

I really couldn't believe how easy it was to do....

Bob T · Posted: Fri May 13, 2011 12:55 pm Post subject: Re: making life easy...

Melly Senior · Posted: Sat May 14, 2011 3:44 am Post subject: Any UK chaps

Anyone in the UK done this??

I'm going to need to do mine at some stage Confused

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2005 BMW 1200 RT
1980 MZ TS250 Supa5
Looking for another brick - miss my last one!

Four wheels move the body however two wheels move the soul......

Bob T · Posted: Sat May 14, 2011 7:01 am Post subject:

Found a pic of how I compressed the spring...
Used the screw w/wire to hold the damper rod up...

This was surprisingly easy this way and that was good since I took them apart twice to get the preload spacer the right length...
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Bob T.
'96 K1100RS
'95 K1100RS - Totaled
'01 Triumph TT600
'83 Suzuki GS1100E

rgscomp · Posted: Sat May 14, 2011 9:05 am Post subject:

Ah, just realised how to put my location in the posts...I'm in the UK and did the job with the BMW tool as above.

I've just got my RAM front springs which I'll be fitting in the next week or so.

Once I've got that done, I'd be happy to loan out the BMW tool if you want to use it? I guess it depends how urgently you need to pull the forks apart...

Melly Senior · Posted: Sat May 14, 2011 12:36 pm Post subject:

rgscomp · Posted: Sat May 14, 2011 12:51 pm Post subject:

Hi Andy,

Simple answer really...go with the RAM stuff.

I've just fitted the RAM rear shock (much recommended on this site) and got the uprated front springs to match. RAM are Realm Engineering, seem to specialise in car suspension but have developed a shock and now springs in conjunction with one of the other members (Beachcomber).

Haven't ridden any distance since fitting the shock, but the quality of engineering is fantastic. The damping adjustment actually makes a difference, unlike the standard shock. Plus the preload is threaded collar so you can get it right whether solo or fully loaded rather than the fixed steps on the standard shock.

Cheers,

Ray.

chris Sunderland · Posted: Tue May 17, 2011 1:08 am Post subject:

I just did the springs this weekend. I went with the RaceTech .90's mentioned in the article.

I agree with you. Step 5 didn't make any sense to me. If I take the bike off of the center stand, it falls over. Plus with the caps off, the forks will be fully compressed.

When you remove the fork caps, there is nothing to keep the dampening rod with the springs from coming out the top of the forks. When that happens, the front of the bike will slam down.

So before you pull the caps, slide a jack under the front of the motor.

Okay, so on to step 5. If you raise the front of the bike with the jack, the dampening rods will go down in the fork tubes. It is very difficult to work the dogs when they're way down in there. If you lower the jack and the front of the bike, as Scott says, the whole assembly will float above the top of the fork. you will still have to use a lot of pressure to push everything done.
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'04 WR450f
'93 K1100LT

jpberens1994K1100RS · Posted: Tue May 17, 2011 2:01 pm Post subject: Fork springs

I rebuilt mine in the bike.
The IBMWR web site has a good artical on it.

I used a screw into the top of the dampening rod with a string tied on it.
I tied this off over the rafter in the garage to hold the damper rod.

Looked kind of odd & crude, but no special tools required. No work bench drama, but do what works for ya.

Yes, block of wood & jack under the motor, center stand tied off so it cannot collapse. I use a nylon strap and tie off to the header. Yes the header is cool when I do it.
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1993 K1100RS that I'd rather be riding FAST!
2014 Moto Guzzi Norge

chris Sunderland · Posted: Tue May 17, 2011 2:22 pm Post subject:

I thought the screw in top of the dampening rod was brilliant. I used fishing line and my 14 year old son.

It worked excellant. He did the dogs too, while I pushed down on the retaining disc with two phillips head screwdrivers.

Be carefull, it takes all of your wieght to push the springs down and when the screw drivers slips, you don't want to take out the gauges
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'04 WR450f
'93 K1100LT

jpberens1994K1100RS · Posted: Tue May 17, 2011 2:28 pm Post subject: springs & such

I wore saftey glasses.

I used duct tape and tape 2 fairly equal length screw drivers together and a little block of wood to make essentially a big 2 prong fork.
I wore gloves and was able to compress, hold, and install those little dogs.

I only did the tape thing cause it was cooler in the garge and I was by myself. No fun looking for stuf when it springs out under pressure.
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1993 K1100RS that I'd rather be riding FAST!
2014 Moto Guzzi Norge

Beachcomber · Posted: Thu May 19, 2011 8:57 am Post subject:

Stoked Steve · Posted: Thu May 19, 2011 8:49 pm Post subject:

Wow, shocker, springs, plug leads, exhaust, you guys are really covering the goodies, can't wait to add some to my bike! (in addition to my shock and wires).
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Steve
Virginia Beach, VA
93 K1100RS Mystic Red SOLD
12 Suzuki DL650A VStrom

Beachcomber · Posted: Sun May 22, 2011 6:53 am Post subject:

Hi Steve - you forgot to mention brake discs !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Wink

I'm just trying to think what else I need for my own projects while AC is in a good mood. Laughing

Brake discs are on extended test at the moment - we weren't happy with the first 2 sets of samples.

The progressive front springs have really made a difference with the RAM rear shocker.

I trust the current RAM products are working to your entire satisfaction - cheque in the post Laughing

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Beachcomber '93 K1100RS / '93 K1100LT and several K100's